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Posted

My air-con clutch does not appear to be engaging and before I go to a specialist, is there anything I can do? The centre part turns freely so is not seized. I had an intermittant pressure sensor switch problem and cleared that. The pressure seems about right in the low pressure side.

 

I thought about testing to see if there is power and or connectivity to the air con unit, but I cannot get near the thing. There is not enough space to get my hand between the radiators fans and the unit from the top and from the bottom the engine tray is in the way and I believe you have to have the car on stands (which I don't have) to get the tray off. From the front, the oil cooler is in the way.

Posted

Well I made a 2 foot electrical probe by soldering a needle to a rod then using the needle to pierce the wires on the compressor and the correct electrical signals are being sent to the clutch. So the clutch is not working and this could be the field coils or the whole mechanism. There is no obvious physical external damage to the clutch and the centre part turns smoothly by hand.

 

The options seem to be, new field coils and/or clutch and I have no idea of the cost of these. A two legged puller is required to remove the clutch. A remanufactured compressor (SD7V16) would cost

Posted

Well I made a 2 foot electrical probe by soldering a needle to a rod then using the needle to pierce the wires on the compressor and the correct electrical signals are being sent to the clutch. So the clutch is not working and this could be the field coils or the whole mechanism. There is no obvious physical external damage to the clutch and the centre part turns smoothly by hand.

 

The options seem to be, new field coils and/or clutch and I have no idea of the cost of these. A two legged puller is required to remove the clutch. A remanufactured compressor (SD7V16) would cost

Guest neil_wiles
Posted
BTW if you are taking the compressor off you must have the gas recovered by an aircon engineer.

 

 

 

Only if you dont have a leak if you do then to ask for a certificate of gas collection would be a bit superflous.

Posted
BTW if you are taking the compressor off you must have the gas recovered by an aircon engineer.

 

 

 

Only if you dont have a leak if you do then to ask for a certificate of gas collection would be a bit superflous.

 

Quote

"I had an intermittant pressure sensor switch problem and cleared that. The pressure seems about right in the low pressure side."

 

In this case there is pressure in the system which is why I gave the advice, it is illegal to purposefully vent a/c gas into the atmosphere.

Posted

When the system is gassed there should be some resistance when turning the centre by hand.

 

What sort of resistance should there be? It feels like turning a paddle in oil or heavily greased bearing, but there is no pressure that makes it want to spring back or forwards like you would feel with a piston type compressor?

Posted

Normally it feels 'lumpy' as you turn it, difficult to give a definitive answer, I'm just going on my experience.

 

Still think replacing clutch only is false economy, as you say the whole thing is not much more money and you could end up replacing compressor anyway.

Posted
Have you tried apply a current directly to the A/C compressor? That way you'll know whether it works or not - As it stands it could be a faulty pressure switch or wiring.
Posted

Have you tried apply a current directly to the A/C compressor? That way you'll know whether it works or not - As it stands it could be a faulty pressure switch or wiring.

 

He says he's got power to it in his first post

Posted
On mine you can hear a definate click as the clutch engages, also you would know if the clutch was operating correctly by looking at the centre of the compressor pully, if it is turnign then the clutch is working and it may be a snapped shaft, but if it isn't turning then the clutch is naff OR there is no current / return getting to / from it. If there is current then it MUST be the clutch. I think I would take it to a specialist and pay a diagnostic fee as it would be a lot cheaper than replacing the wrong part.
Posted

On mine you can hear a definate click as the clutch engages, also you would know if the clutch was operating correctly by looking at the centre of the compressor pully, if it is turnign then the clutch is working and it may be a snapped shaft, but if it isn't turning then the clutch is naff OR there is no current / return getting to / from it. If there is current then it MUST be the clutch. I think I would take it to a specialist and pay a diagnostic fee as it would be a lot cheaper than replacing the wrong part.

 

MUST be the clutch yes, but beware, compressor could be faulty too so changing clutch could be false economy as I said! (exchange compressor comes complete with clutch)

Posted

I had the exact same thing happen to me, It was the field coil going open circuit, I was lucky enough to find one on that popular auction site for a tenner and changed it on the drive, kept me going for another 30k and now the clutch plate has exploded :) so I am on the look out for one anybody got one lying around they would like to exchange for pound notes??

 

Good luck

 

M@

Posted

I had the exact same thing happen to me, It was the field coil going open circuit, I was lucky enough to find one on that popular auction site for a tenner and changed it on the drive, kept me going for another 30k and now the clutch plate has exploded :D so I am on the look out for one anybody got one lying around they would like to exchange for pound notes??

 

Good luck

 

M@

 

May be able to help you there, :) I changed a clutch unit for a motor trader last week (he went for clutch only against my advice) but it turned out although the clutch was faulty the compressor was knackered. He rung me this morning to ask if i could fit him a compressor so as long as it's not an exchange unit I'll have a spare clutch :D

Posted

Make sure you have the correct clutch unit, there were a variety of compressors used over time across the range and even on the same compressor there was more than one type of clutch used. As an example my compressor was an Sanden SD7V16 and the variant on that was "1226" and there were at least two different clutches used on that variant.

 

The Ford price for a clutch is

Posted

I finally took the plunge and bought a re-manufactured compressor as it was cheaper than a clutch from Ford. Took some of the front end off the car and found some dye on the top of the receiver dryer where it has corroded. I hope this is the only small leak I have as it takes so long for the gas to escape and it is only after a year that any UV dye has been visible. This was the first place I originally checked. Only problem is that I also require a new condenser. All I need now is an evaporator leak to empty the bank.

 

What I find really annoying is that this is a known manufacturing defect in these condensers by Ford but they never recalled them. In their TIS 112/2002 dated 28th November 2002 they state "Should a customer express concern that the air condition system is inoperative or there is inadequate cooling power and there are leaks in the air conditioning system, the probable cause is a corroded/damaged aluminium cover on the air conditioning condenser or a damaged O-ring. To rectify this concern a new air conditioning condenser should be installed. A revised air conditioning condenser has been installed in production since 22.07.2002 (build code 2M)"

 

As Ford knew about this they should have done something about this build. Ba$tards.

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