Cam Belt. The Detail

[Steveenduro]

Hi all.

 

I'm about to change the cambelt on my 1.9TDi. I have studied the TIS, and the info that comes with the Sealey VS1245 locking kit. I have a few minor questions; hopefully someone that has done this before can answer them.

1. Are ther any other special tools apart from the Sealey locking kit that I need? For example, the cambelt holding tool isn't mentioned on Sealeys instructions. I guess the pin/drill bit is enough to stop camshaft turning? Also, would socket allen keys be handy to torque up bolts on crankshaft pulley. Would ratchet spanners be handy, and if so, what size?

2. What is the reason for the 2 stage tightening of camshaft pulley bolts? 1st stage 20nm, 2nd 45

[seatkid]

Hi all.

 

I'm about to change the cambelt on my 1.9TDi. I have studied the TIS, and the info that comes with the Sealey VS1245 locking kit.

;) brave man.....

 

 

1. Are ther any other special tools apart from the Sealey locking kit that I need? For example, the cambelt holding tool isn't mentioned on Sealeys instructions. I guess the pin/drill bit is enough to stop camshaft turning? Also, would socket allen keys be handy to torque up bolts on crankshaft pulley. Would ratchet spanners be handy, and if so, what size?

Good tools are the secret to easy servicing....I would have thought socket allen keys essential....

 

2. What is the reason for the 2 stage tightening of camshaft pulley bolts? 1st stage 20nm, 2nd 45

[Steveenduro]

Has anyone bought the full cam belt kit and/or auxilliary (ribbed) belt for a 1.9TDi PD (yr 2000) from GSF? Their website is a tad confusing when it comes to part numbers. If so, the GSF number would be appreciated.

Cheers.

[tim-spam]

I guess the pin/drill bit is enough to stop camshaft turning?

I would strongly advise against this as I doubt if the pin would be strong enough.

 

As for the torque + angle method, this is very much more accurate than just torque. What you are trying to achieve is the correct bolt pre-tension, and this can vary by up to 30% if torque alone is used. Therefore, many bolts now have to be 'nipped' up with a nominal torque setting, followed by an angular movement to accurately apply the correct 'stretch' and therefore pre-tension.

 

Do not use loctite unless it is specified - the tightening procedure given assumes lightly oiled threads.

 

The sump on PD engines is metal (not plastic!), and strong enough to support the weight of the engine - use a block of wood to spread the load.

 

The timing marks are on the crank and cam pulleys - the TIS shows where - the one on the crank pulley has to lign up with a mark on the crank locking tool.

 

I have just changed the exhaust on mine, and it was an easy job - the centre section is a bit tight going over the rear subframe, but it does go through with a bit of pushing and shoving.

[Masked Marauder]

Have you got this? http://www.sealey.co.uk/pdfs/instructions/VS1245.pdf

 

My TIS makes no mention of a belt holding tool PDTimingBeltChange.pdf

 

You should never rely on the timing tools to hold things in place whilst you undo the bolts, it is not strong enough and was not designed for that purpose, use a proper pulley holding tool, they are a lot less to buy than having to replace your timing kit.

[seatkid]

The sump on PD engines is metal (not plastic!), and strong enough to support the weight of the engine - use a block of wood to spread the load.

Hell of a weight to have on the sump. Won't do the sump gasket any good. And IIRC the sump is not flat and horizontal underneath so there is danger of damage and what if the engine slips forwards or backwards?

[tim-spam]

I don't know exactly how many bolts are used to attach the sump to the engine, but if we assume it's 8, and the bolts are M6 grade 8.8, the total clamping force on the mating face would be approximately a total of 970kgf x 8 = 7.76 tonnes. How heavy is the engine?

[Steveenduro]

Cheers MM, I've got the info from Sealey. I'm not buying their kit though. I've ordered the crank locking tool, tensioner holding plate and tensioner wrench from another supplier for less than

[Masked Marauder]

Cheers MM, I've got the info from Sealey. I'm not buying their kit though. I've ordered the crank locking tool, tensioner holding plate and tensioner wrench from another supplier for less than

[seatkid]

I don't know exactly how many bolts are used to attach the sump to the engine, but if we assume it's 8, and the bolts are M6 grade 8.8, the total clamping force on the mating face would be approximately a total of 970kgf x 8 = 7.76 tonnes. How heavy is the engine?

-_-....I know I won't be asking tim spam to check the bolts on my sump are tight....

[Brookydave]

Unfortunately the Sealey instructions contradict the VW instructions. It was the turning the crank backwards whilst being changed at a dealers that led to the fairly common occurance of the crank sprocket loosening on my 1.9 There is a lot of talk about this on TDIforum. Basically never turn an A3 engine backwards. and never turn it using the crank - always the cam gear - I know it sounds wrong, but it does work. You will need more than a standard socket kit to tighten the crank bolt. I only managed it with an electric 3/4" Makita hammer drive.

I have the change time down to 5 hours, but ive now done it 4 times. Definately take No1 heater out and the battery and header tank out (5 mins) to find TDC, otherwise you will go insane and blind. Didnt read all the Sealey blurb, but I dont understand how it times the cam. Use the Ford disk. A Snap On 11mm 3/8" long series socket acts as a perfect diesel pump timing locater. I made my cam timing device, but I have a surface grinder.

Good Luck and be patient.

Dave

[tim-spam]

I don't know exactly how many bolts are used to attach the sump to the engine, but if we assume it's 8, and the bolts are M6 grade 8.8, the total clamping force on the mating face would be approximately a total of 970kgf x 8 = 7.76 tonnes. How heavy is the engine?

-_-....I know I won't be asking tim spam to check the bolts on my sump are tight....

Basically, one standard (grade 8.8) M6 bolt correctly tightened will have a pre-tension of approximately 9.7kN, which is around 970kg. In other words, if several of these are used to clamp the sump seal, the weight of the engine will not add significantly to this force. However, I would definitely agree that when using the sump to support a proportion of the engine's weight, care should be taken - I use a trolley jack and block of wood. By the way, I wonder how many garages would use the kit shown on the TIS (in fact, how many have even got it?) - I think we can probably guess the answer to that one.

[Steveenduro]

The Ford TIS actually suggests that a trolley jack and wood is used.

Are all the fastener torque values based on oiled threads/mating faces?

I read somewhere that figures given in handbooks and manuals are generally dry figures, with the exception of cylinder head bolts.

Seems that this would be quite an important issue given the difference in tensile forces oiled vs dry.

BTW, any idea on the torque setting for the idler bolt. No mention in the TIS.

Cheers.

[tim-spam]

I read somewhere that figures given in handbooks and manuals are generally dry figures, with the exception of cylinder head bolts.

Seems that this would be quite an important issue given the difference in tensile forces oiled vs dry.

Cheers.

But the 'nip-up' torque followed by an angular movement would largely overcome this problem.

[Steveenduro]

I've bought the cam belt kit from GSF which includes the belt, tensioner pulley wheel and idler roller.

The ford TIS service bulletin states that the Tensioner is to be replaced. Does this mean that the actual tensioner/damper assembly also need to be replaced. 1.9 TDi PD

[Steveenduro]

Actually got around to changing the cambelt on Saturday. (2000 1.9 TDi PD).

I would class myself as an averagely competent DIYer, and it took me all day, and very nearly cost me my sanity! Would I do it again? Probably.

The day started badly. Driving the car up onto ramps on a gravel driveway. Yes, I know, don't laugh. The rh front wheel spun, and threw the ramp under the sill. So I have a couple of creases in the sill that I can't blame on the garage.

I followed the TIS procedure. Everyting was straightforward enough, just bloody hard work. The main issue was access. Those fiddly hose clamps, and the engine mounting bolts in particular. Just not much space.

I bought lazer locking tools

[mumof4]

Me thinks this is one for the FAQ section..well done steveenduro..Though i think number 6 should be number 1!!! :blink: ..couldnt stop laughing at number 10..sorry!!..were you ok after number 3?????

[Steveenduro]

Thanks Mumof4, yes I was ok, the adrenalin numbs the pain. The thought of turning the key for the 1st time certainly gives you a buzz.

I guess most non DIYers think we are mad putting so much time and effort in to save a few pounds. But as we all secretly know, it is the challenge and not just the cash. We are a stubborn bunch who cannot stand the thought of being beaten by a lump of metal. The thing that worried me most was the thought of calling a mechanic to put the whole lot back together again.

[mumof4]

Definately got to agree with you there!!I do like the challenge when i fix something on my car,though i usually end up shouting for help!! <_<

[Masked Marauder]

Steve, welcome to the "Cam Belt Club" you only get to be a member once you have changed your own cam belt. There are a few members on here, you now get to nod sagely when a timing or belt question is raised!

[Vanbursta]

The trick with car ramps on gravel (or any surface) is to cut a long thin strip of carpet and wrap it round the 1st "rung" on the ramps, that way when you get the front wheels on the carpet the ramps will not slip (I'm told it works with sturdy rope as well, although I haven't tried it.