How To Do Oil/ Filter Change On 2.3 16v Galaxy 2003

[Guest stevo]

Ford Galaxy 2.3 16v petrol 2003

 

 

Hi All,

 

 

I bought my galaxy 2 weeks ago & also had it serviced umm at the same place, but after asking what oil they put into it, I found out that it was some cheap brand of SAE 10W-40 :D made by JR i thinks!! :D

 

I have looked on web at Halfords & was thinking about changing the oil & filter myself to Castrol Magnetic GTX SAE 5W-30 is this ok? or Ford/Motorcraft formula E SAE 5W-30 ? or any other recommendations.

 

I would appreciate any step by step procedure for doing oil change / oil filter, since I don't thinks Haynes do a Manual for Ford Galaxy 2003 model?

 

bit of a noob at mo with Galaxy :D

 

Cheers

 

Steve

[Alhambra]

1. remove the under tray, 10mm bolts x 6

 

2. open the engine sump plug allowing the *warm* oil to drain into a container.... when all drained re-fit the sump plug

 

3. remove the filter using a *filter removing* tool....... typically a chain type device that can be rotated using a rachet or spanner..... then fit the new filter.

 

I'll be doing my own in a few weeks & would be expecting to follw the above "basic" guide.

[Guest stevo]

Thanks

 

 

 

 

Alhambra :D

[Alhambra]

4. re-fill with oil .... unless you want a klanky, bangy, engine :lol: :D

[Andrew T]

Or Save getting your hands dirty by going to National Tyres who do an oil and filter change on Petrol engines up to 2300cc for

[Alhambra]

Or Save getting your hands dirty by going to National Tyres who do an oil and filter change on Petrol engines up to 2300cc for

[Guest stevo]

Ohh yeah the Oil, not chip fat then :blink: :lol:

 

Got 4.5lt Castrol GTX Magnetic 5w-30 other day for ford engines

[sparky Paul]

I would add a few tips for the 2.3 16V - mine's a '99 mk.1, but I expect yours is similar underneath...

 

If you're doing it on the driveway, you will find that the splash guard will not come out from under the car - it's too big. You have to slide the oil tray on to the splash guard.

 

Also, before removing the oil filter, stuff some absorbant rags under the filter to catch the bit of oil that runs out - otherwise it runs onto the convoluted part of the exhaust, and into the splash tray (which will be stuck under the car while you are oil changing). If you don't catch it with rags, the exhaust will smoke a bit when it next gets hot, and the oil in the splash guard will find its way on to your driveway/garage later.

 

Make sure you use 5W-30, it's more expensive but I'm told the correct grade is important for this engine.

 

Apart from that, it's all very easy. :unsure:

 

Hope this helps!

[Andrew T]

They must use some *dodgey* parts.....

[sparky Paul]

They must use some *dodgey* parts.....

[Jimbo73]

Right,,, I am going to be doing this on the weekend on my Gal...

 

Can I get one of them ratchet tools from a motor factors or Halfords, or are the dealers the only place to go...

 

I am now scared as well...... The gal was low on oil the other day, and I put some oil for a petrol engine, it is not 5w -30w, it is 15 - 40. Will this damage the engine? I have only been around the block with it since putting the oil in.

 

1 more question - Where is the sump?

[snapper]

A little bit of wrong oil will make little or no difference but it is not recomended, as you are going to change the lot soon, put it down to experience and make sure you check your fluids specifications next time.

 

Some engines like standard oil, some semi synthetic and others fully synthetic, so the premise of more expensive fully synthetic is not necessarally correct, if in doubt put in what the manefacturer says for they no that well serviced there engines will go on for hundreds of thousands of miles.

 

Oil is the life blood of an engine and if you did nothing else then an oil and filter change at the correct intervals will keep the engine fresh, if you want to keep it going for a good few years and/or give it a thrashing now and then, its worth changing the oil more frequently.

[Jimbo73]

Thanks very much..... Just seen national tyres will do it for

[sparky Paul]

Thanks very much..... Just seen national tyres will do it for

Edited February 29, 2008 by sparky Paul

[Marshman]

I would add a few tips for the 2.3 16V - mine's a '99 mk.1, but I expect yours is similar underneath...

 

If you're doing it on the driveway, you will find that the splash guard will not come out from under the car - it's too big. You have to slide the oil tray on to the splash guard.

 

Also, before removing the oil filter, stuff some absorbant rags under the filter to catch the bit of oil that runs out - otherwise it runs onto the convoluted part of the exhaust, and into the splash tray (which will be stuck under the car while you are oil changing). If you don't catch it with rags, the exhaust will smoke a bit when it next gets hot, and the oil in the splash guard will find its way on to your driveway/garage later.

 

Make sure you use 5W-30, it's more expensive but I'm told the correct grade is important for this engine.

 

Apart from that, it's all very easy. :wacko:

 

Hope this helps!

 

Hi there,

 

I bought 5W - 30 fully synthetic oil the other day for my 2001 2.3 Zetec, is this correct or should I have gone for the semi?

 

Thanks in advance.

[BigAl2010]

I would add a few tips for the 2.3 16V - mine's a '99 mk.1, but I expect yours is similar underneath...

 

If you're doing it on the driveway, you will find that the splash guard will not come out from under the car - it's too big. You have to slide the oil tray on to the splash guard.

 

Also, before removing the oil filter, stuff some absorbant rags under the filter to catch the bit of oil that runs out - otherwise it runs onto the convoluted part of the exhaust, and into the splash tray (which will be stuck under the car while you are oil changing). If you don't catch it with rags, the exhaust will smoke a bit when it next gets hot, and the oil in the splash guard will find its way on to your driveway/garage later.

 

Make sure you use 5W-30, it's more expensive but I'm told the correct grade is important for this engine.

 

Apart from that, it's all very easy. http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/public/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif

 

Hope this helps!

 

Hi there,

 

I bought 5W - 30 fully synthetic oil the other day for my 2001 2.3 Zetec, is this correct or should I have gone for the semi?

 

Thanks in advance.

 

Thought I could add some input on this topic too. I have the MK2 2002 2.3 DOHC Petrol version and did my very first oil change today.

 

I couldn't find any specific advice on where the sump plug drain was nor where the oil filter actually lived within the engine bay.

 

Here is what I found :

 

To access the sump plug drain bolt you need to jack up the car and place it on axle stands first of all, then put wheel chocks on the back wheels and make sure the handbrake is ON!

 

Remove the under engine hard plastic cover - there are 2 screws at the back of it (near the handbrake under the car) and a few around the edges that are bolts. Once all these are undone you can slide the cover towards the rear of the car and it should lift off - it is quite large and heavy so watch you dont let it fall on your face!

 

Once the cover is off if you crawl under the car on your back with your head towards the back wheels look up and the sump drain plug is at the back of the lower engine about where the handbrake would be. This needs to be undone with a 13mm spanner or socket - make sure you have a empty litter tray or something like it to catch the oil into once you open the drain plug. Be careful as it will be warm as you need to let the engine run for ten minutes before you undo it to let the oil run smoothly and quickly. Plus you need to take off the oil cap on the top off the engine.

 

Let it all drain out for about 15 mins then you can take out the oil filter - This is to the left of the drain plug you just took off but higher up above the exhaust pipe - you will have to reach up about 6 inches above and use your hand to undo the oil filter anticlockwise. If it is too hard to turn by hand you need to use a special filter removal tool which you can buy for about £6 from any car shop etc. Once you start to undo the oil filter a lot more oil will start to pour out so watch it! Once out lower the oil filter through the engine bay until you can get it out completely. Be sure to wipe off any excess oil which was spilt onto the exhaust pipe etc or it will burn and smell later on!

 

Let all the oil drain out from where the filter was and when all done wipe with paper towel etc.

 

Now fit the new oil filter by smearing a little of the old oil around the rubber rim before you screw it in as this will help to make a tight seal. Put the oil filter in and screw it hand tight then tighten it a bit more with the hand. This is tight enough and doesnt need to need the hulk to undo it next time!

 

Put the sump drain plug back in and check the seal is good - if not you can buy a new seal for pennies or even a new drain plug screw for only about a quid. Tighten it back up nice and tight.

 

Replace the under engine plastic compartment in the reverse order you took it off.

 

Take out axle stands and lower car and remove chocks behind rear wheels.

 

Now with some 5w30 fully synthetic oil (about £23) pour 4.5 litres into the engine using a funnel. Once you have 4.5 litres in the engine check the dipstick level and replace the oil screw on the engine.

 

Start the car up and the oil light will show for a couple of seconds and then go off which is fine. Let the engine warm up to the 90c mark on the temp gauge and bobs your uncle all done!

Edited July 12, 2012 by BigAl2010

[sparky Paul]

I've been using fully synthetic oil in the Galaxy for many years. It does on the whole have the best and most durable lubrication qualities, but there are issues to consider.

 

Putting fully synthetic into an older and/or high mileage engine can free oilway deposits into the oil, clogging oil jets and contaminating bearing surfaces. This 'cleaning' of the engine also has the habit of starting minor oil leaks, and may induce oil usage.

 

There should be no problem putting synthetic oil in any engine from new, or low mileage engines.

 

 

I find that the oil filter is easy enough to access from above, a small belt strap wrench is all I use to free the filter. I've never jacked up to do the oil change either, using the method I described, the only tricky bit is reaching the back two undertray nuts.

 

I also replace the sump plug seal every time... for what they cost, it's daft not to. Reusing the old seal just tempts people to over-tighten the sump plug.

Edited July 14, 2012 by sparky Paul