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Posted

2 days ago my car developed a loud creaking from the nearside front suspension/steering area, this came on quite suddenly.

 

Whilst driving even on the smoothest roads there is a creaking from the Front N/S corner, it disapears when stationary (as you would expect) but then if you steer whilst stationary the creak is apparent constantly (whilst steering).

 

I replaced the ARB drop links a few weeks ago and when I crawl under the car theres nothing appears to have play in it, theres no leaks from suspension or steering that I can see and the Mrs is at work so I have no one here to work the steering while I crawl underneath!

 

Anyone got any pointers?

Posted
possibly wheel bearing - try jacking up and see if there is any play in it
Guest radioman
Posted

This sounds like the rubber mountings at the top of the shock absorber rods.Within these mountings is a small bearing which allows the damper rod to rotate within the rubber mounting. These sometimes make a horrible/expensive noise but are not really doing much damage.

To replace both the rubber and the bearing you will have to remove the shock absorber from the car by firstly removing the panel from below the windscreen ( the one that hides the windscreen wiper and pollen filter from view). Then you must remove the large nuts at the top of the shock absorber rods whilst supporting the wheight of the suspension unit.The damper rod has an allen key slot cut into the top of it to stop the rod rotating whilst you undo the nut but i have found that the nut will be rusted to the rod as it is directly in line for any rainwater that runs off the windscreen,If you hold the damper rod with a mole grips or something similar there is a probable chance that you will damage the rod surface enough so that in use the damper rod will damage the seal in the body of the damper and you will then require a new damper unit. Once you have the nuts at the top of the suspension units undone you will notice that there is a second nut which holds the rubber mount/bearing unit on to the top of the damper rod. To remove this you will need to use a set of coil spring compressors to take the spring load off the top of the damper rod. Once you have this nut off ( you may find it easier to do by removing the rod completely from the car ) you just slide the bearing and rubber mount over the top of the damper rod.

Replacement is just the reverse of removal. I have done a couple of these mountings now and whilst time consuming it is doable by the average weekend mechanic.

The cost of the parts was approx

Posted
I had the creaking that you describe, by spraying the rubbers on the tops of damper structs with good ol' WD40 it cured it! I,m not saying that this is the cure but it might be worth a try.
Posted

Ive had the car jacked up today, and am certain that the N/S top strut mount is responsible (thanks radioman). Theres plenty of lateral movement in the N/S that isnt there on the O/S strut mount.

 

However as expected the top nuts are rusted solid. What a stupid design, putting the nut inside a "cup" that is going to fill with water. A plastic cap on top and a liberal dose of grease would have prevented this.

 

Ive got both sides drowning in WD40 at the moment, but has anyone got any suggestions for removal of this nut?

 

Is there a special tool available that will allow me to turn the nut whilst still having access to the allen key on top of the rod? My 22mm ring spanner has too large an outside diameter.

Posted

The tool VAG use is a special ratchet handle with a hole through it!

 

I will have a look on the internet and see if I can find anything that might help.....

Posted
If you cannot get the proper tool, depending on the access space around the nut, you may be able to put a socket from a socket set on the nut and grip the outside of the socket with a wrench whilst putting the allen key through the hole in the top of the socket.
Posted
OK, I think a spark-plug socket will fit! I will check when I am dressed. Spark plug sockets have a hex top to put a ring spanner onto. You will need to either get it cut down at a machine shop or find a long hex key.
Posted

Thanks All,

 

Yes a 14mm spark plug socket fits, I will have another go before the weekend. And keep you posted on the results.

 

In the meantime I shall keep up the daily WD40 dose, Ive a feeling I will need all the help I can get with this one!

Posted

I will follow this one with interest. I had my MK1 MOT'd yesterday - it passed but with an advisory that there is a little play in the top suspension mounts - I am assuming that this is what Tiny has. I have, since discovering it some years ago, always greased thew nuts in the top mounts precisely becasue they sit in a pool of water. Hopefully this won't prove too much of a problem. Tiny - could you let me know what parets you buy and the approximate cost.

 

Cheers

 

BJ

 

 

 

MM - I think you have access to part numbers - Would you be able to tell me the part number for the fuel filter bracket on a 97 Diesel - It's plastic and it's broken. It clips onto the side of the battery tray.

 

 

Many thanks

 

 

BJ

Posted

Went Down this road about 2 months back when I found that the top bushes on the shock absorbers had too much play in them. I was at my mates garage who has every tool and gadget at his disposal but were unsuccessful at removing the struts without damage. The nuts were rusted solid and the small hexagonal slot at the top of the strut rounded off very quickerly.

 

New shockies worked out at about

Posted

I think I am going to go and pack my nuts with grease.....

 

 

 

hmmm I think I will have a look at my mk2 and see if the designs the same - and follow suit ;)

Posted

 

 

MM - I think you have access to part numbers - Would you be able to tell me the part number for the fuel filter bracket on a 97 Diesel - It's plastic and it's broken. It clips onto the side of the battery tray.

 

 

Many thanks

 

 

BJ

 

 

I can only do VW/SEAT part numbers, but it is a strange one! The illustration in the catalogue shows the filter holder, but describes it as a "spring clip" The part number given is - 7M0 201 509 B - and it should cost about

Posted

Thanks MM I'll let you know what happens.

 

By the way, too much grease on your nuts make them difficult to grip!!

Posted

Ok, Shocks and mounts fitted creaking still as bad as ever!

 

No play in wheel bearings, no usual dodgy wheel bearing drone when driving and it doesnt seem to eminate from the hub.

 

Solution? Going to the pub tonight to forget about the @*%4$#

  • 2 years later...
Posted
OK, I think a spark-plug socket will fit! I will check when I am dressed. Spark plug sockets have a hex top to put a ring spanner onto. You will need to either get it cut down at a machine shop or find a long hex key.
I came here looking for inspiration, as I was about to do the nsf shock this morning when I saw the rusted mess and wondered how to get it undone.

 

I've given up on it for today, but I wish I'd thought of trying a sparkplug socket. I found that for the allen key, on mine it is the same size as the one that I use to get the brake caliper off (7mm, I think) which is also a) quite long and :16: got a good solid handle.

The nut seems to be 21mm (based on the fact that a 19mm ring spanner didn't work and the 22mm socket was a loose fit.) I couldn't find my 22mm deep/offset ring spanner, but having looked in Halfords, they all looked rather bigger than the clearance in the cup.

 

They also had a nice set of "through ratchet" sockets, but at

Posted
I have had no problems so far with front suspension thank goodness!! But I have seen the nuts you are talking about. Someone suggested filling the cup with grease to stop water filling it and rusting away the nut. This would or should make things easier if you needed to undo the nut.
  • 5 months later...
Posted
My 2001 mk2 Gal is quite diffeerent to my neighbours 2003. I suffers from more road noise and a much less compliant ride. Alittle more engine noise too. I always thought that it was just due to a revised suspension set-up chromed up model. But could it be related to this thread or has anyone any idea how I might be able to improve matters now tha I've decided to keep it. (Credit crunching!) :angry2:
Posted

I have had increased road noise due to a broken front offside spring - the very top coil had cracked, and the rest of the spring was being supported by the underside of the suspension turret, bypassing the isolation of the rubber mount. The spring on the nearside snapped in two shortly after, and dismantling the front suspension revealed all the horrors.

 

So, new front coils, shocks, bushes and bearings... and it wasn't easy. There was no hope of removing the top mounts, I ended up burning through what was left of the rusted cups to remove the struts. I did not remove the hubs, it is possible to remove the struts without the hubs, but it is tricky... If I were to do it again, I would probably remove the hubs, but remember that you will need new driveshaft bolts to do this.

 

Watch the hub pinch bolt on older vehicles, corrosion in the pinch gap weakens the bolt, siezes it in and makes it very easy to shear off. I had to use some heat on the casting to free the bolt, the old bolts were corroded in the middle of the thread and had to be replaced.

 

All in all, the job was not easy.

 

Just another thing, regarding packing the tops with grease. In the process of attempting to free the top nuts, I soaked them in penetrating oil for several days prior to starting the job. I noticed that the oil attacked the rubber on the top mounts, swelling it and releasing the glue attaching the rubber... If you want to pack them with grease, make sure it's something that is waterproof, but will not attack the rubbers.

Posted
My 2001 mk2 Gal is quite diffeerent to my neighbours 2003. I suffers from more road noise and a much less compliant ride. Alittle more engine noise too.

There's quite a few different spring rates fitted to the Galaxys, are the two cars the same engine, etc.? Wheel/tyre combinations can also make a difference.

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