Guest grove34 Posted March 26, 2006 Report Posted March 26, 2006 bought a galaxy 97 p reg glx last week , was told before i bought it that it didnt have central locking. have since found out that it has got c/l , found where the fuse goes , replaced it and guess what , theres a problem with the c/l , looks like somebody just took the fuse out rather than sort out the problem. when i turn the key too lock the car from the drivers door it will make all the right noises but none of the doors lock apart from the drivers door. also when i unlock the drivers door it will make all the noises again but only unlock the drivers door and at the same time open the drivers window. i can hear noises coming from other parts of the car when i lock or unlock from the drivers door. i've read just about every thread on central locking that has been posted and as far as i can work out it could be pretty much anything causing it. so if you could help it would be very much appreciated. thanks Quote
Guest galaxykid Posted March 26, 2006 Report Posted March 26, 2006 Sounds like a wireing problem :D usuall suspect is the loom in the rubber gaitor where it passes from the A post to the door, if you look back a few post you will find another post about windows not working that had this fault! :D and how it was cured :lol: Quote
mumof4 Posted March 26, 2006 Report Posted March 26, 2006 Broken wire somewhere? not a very good sugestion i know.best i can think of.i would have said motors but it sounds like they are working. Quote
Guest grove34 Posted March 26, 2006 Report Posted March 26, 2006 i was thinking the same thing but where would the dodgy wire be . also does anybody know which way the circuit goes round the car or does it go both ways ? Quote
Guest galaxykid Posted March 26, 2006 Report Posted March 26, 2006 What happens if you lock or unlock the car via the passenger door lock? Quote
muffking Posted March 26, 2006 Report Posted March 26, 2006 You say it makes all the noises, which suggests that the motors are all working. This would mean that they are either not mechanically connected to the locks or that they are unlocking again. Quote
Guest galaxykid Posted March 26, 2006 Report Posted March 26, 2006 You say it makes all the noises, which suggests that the motors are all working. This would mean that they are either not mechanically connected to the locks or that they are unlocking again. Not necessarily if the other locking motors don't receive the correct signal they wont hold in the locked position, each locking mech has a small micro switch on the locking mech, if this does not operated or show up as giving the locked signal the other doors will not latch :D I would start by seeing if the door lock as they should from the passenger door so to isolated the fault to the drivers doors mech/wireing? then check the condition of the wires in the gaitor on the A post :lol: Quote
bigdaddy Posted March 26, 2006 Report Posted March 26, 2006 got to agree with galaxykid,,,,,,if passenger side locks and unlocks the car ok,,,,,,,drivers wiring at the apillar sounds suspect,,,,,,,,,,, Quote
Guest grove34 Posted March 26, 2006 Report Posted March 26, 2006 right this is whats happened so far..... passenger door will only lock or unlock manually , no c/l noises at all got my brother to listen the the locks round the car and it turns out that the only thing making the c/l noises are the drivers door and the filler cap cover. i've got under the passenger seat and had a look at the black box under there , all dry under there but after taking the box out it looks like it has been wet at some point due to the amount of corrosion that came from the box. opened the box up and there was a lot of corrosion on the curcuit board , cleaned it best i could with a bit of wd40 and a toothbrush and it looks almost brand new but alas the doors still dont lock or unlock. i checked all the wires inside the gator near the door hinge and they almost look new , no damage at all to any of them. is there any way i can test to see if this c/l black box is dead or not , i dont want to go and buy a new one only to find that i didnt need to(yeah i know it probably is dead lol). Quote
Guest grove34 Posted March 26, 2006 Report Posted March 26, 2006 one thing i have noticed since messing around with stuff is that the little red light on the drivers door now actually does something , it didnt before though , so i dont know what i've touched to make it work. Quote
Guest galaxykid Posted March 26, 2006 Report Posted March 26, 2006 If you hit ebay there is a guy on thee that sell the info on how to fix/bypass this ECU with the use of a couple of relays and few crimps :D IIRC he doesnt charge that much? it maybe worth a try? if not try here, but get a price from your local dealers first :lol: for comparison! Quote
Guest grove34 Posted March 27, 2006 Report Posted March 27, 2006 dont suppose you got any idea what to search for on ebay to find this bloke Quote
Guest grove34 Posted March 27, 2006 Report Posted March 27, 2006 think i found the listing on ebay but i'm not too keen on doing it if i've got to cut the multiplugs off. Quote
Guest galaxykid Posted March 27, 2006 Report Posted March 27, 2006 think i found the listing on ebay but i'm not too keen on doing it if i've got to cut the multiplugs off. Could you post the item number as I cant find it :D if you have cut the plugs off could you not do it far enough away from the plugs so if you needed to you could rejoin the cables? Quote
Guest grove34 Posted March 27, 2006 Report Posted March 27, 2006 http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...me=STRK:MEWA:IT Quote
Guest grove34 Posted March 27, 2006 Report Posted March 27, 2006 think i found the listing on ebay but i'm not too keen on doing it if i've got to cut the multiplugs off. Could you post the item number as I cant find it :D if you have cut the plugs off could you not do it far enough away from the plugs so if you needed to you could rejoin the cables? there are quite a few cables under there dont fancy the job of rejoining them if i had to. Quote
Guest grove34 Posted March 27, 2006 Report Posted March 27, 2006 also forgot to mention that my local breakers yard sell the central locking units for Quote
Guest grove34 Posted March 27, 2006 Report Posted March 27, 2006 i've just been out and tested the power to the c/l unit , its got power going into it and power going out of it , so if this is the case then either the box is working properly and the problem is elsewhere or the box isnt working properly and the power is passing throught it but not doing anything in between. that said , if the pwer passes throught it then what would be the point of bypassing the box if i already have power going in and out. i'm totally confused now :D Quote
Guest grove34 Posted March 27, 2006 Report Posted March 27, 2006 cheapest i've found a c/l unit is Quote
Guest galaxykid Posted March 27, 2006 Report Posted March 27, 2006 Be carefull! to my knowledge there are three of these units :o each one has a different spec depending on whether the car has the factory fit alarm, remote locking etc :ph34r: make sure you get the correct one? Quote
Guest grove34 Posted March 27, 2006 Report Posted March 27, 2006 i'll make sure its the same one cos i'll take the one out that i've got and match them up. also gonna get the bloke to open up the box to make sure there no water damage. and when this eventually gets sorted out , i'm gnna run the wires back and see if i can put it smewhere else. Quote
Guest galaxykid Posted March 27, 2006 Report Posted March 27, 2006 and when this eventually gets sorted out , i'm gnna run the wires back and see if i can put it smewhere else. I raised mine up on the original mounts, a couple of sections of alloy tube slid over the threaded rod and a couple of washer later it was well out of harms way! plus I check the scuttle drains weekly and blast them through with the hose just to be sure :ph34r: Quote
Guest topcarp2 Posted March 27, 2006 Report Posted March 27, 2006 just had this problem on saturday ...i was originally suffering from the leccy windows not working and indeed i found some wires broken..repaired these and refitted the plug into the socket in 'A' post and then nothing worked at all...what had happened was that at the rear of the socket in the 'A' post there are a few plug in type connectors that are a snap fit into the socket and these had come out...its an easy fix and this is how..... 1) remove the wiring loom plug from the socket in the 'A' post2) remove the bonnet release catch(2 screws)3) remove the drivers side kick trim( the one that sits behind the bonnet release catch)about 5 screws in total...you can then just get your hand in to the wires at the rear of the wiring socket and if with your other hand you can push the connectors free of the socket then chances are they have just become dislodged...just push them back in place till you hear em click and jobs a good un...it cured mine anyway...good luck Quote
Guest grove34 Posted March 27, 2006 Report Posted March 27, 2006 will give that a try when the haynes manual i've ordered turns up , not taking the door card off without it lol , last time i tried that on my mondeo i knackered it a bit due to not finding a couple of the screws. Quote
Guest grove34 Posted April 1, 2006 Report Posted April 1, 2006 well i cant find a fault with any of the wiring. had the control unit out again , cleaned it up a bit more, put it back and the c/l still doesnt work, and to make matters worse i got the dreaded water in the passenger footwell , checked the drains and the drivers side was blocked , passenger side wasnt blocked at all, so i have no idea where the water is getting in. starting to wish i never bought the bloody thing. Quote
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