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Posted
Can anyone help please,i stopped my Galaxy to put some petrol in it,when i then pulled away from the garage ,every time i stop the car cuts out,it starts fine but just wont tick over . :)
Guest galaxykid
Posted
Try cleaning the ISV :D mounted on the rear on the engine, IIRC on the inlet manifold? give it a good dose of carb cleaner or swill some petrol though it! the valve gums up and sticks not allowing air through on closed throttle and starves the engine! hence the stalling :lol: sorry for the delay in replying but it's been a bitch of a day this end :lol:
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted
STILL WONT GO , BEEN IN THE GARAGE FOR A WEEK AND THEY CANT SOLVE IT,HAVE BEEN TOLD BY A FREIND HE HAD THE SAME PROBLEM WITH HIS MONDEO,TURNED OUT IT WAS THE "COIL PACK" COULD IT BE ON THE GALAXY ? GETTING DESPERATE NOW !!! :D
Posted

Very unlikely to be a coil pack, the ISV is the most likely cause or the ECU controlling it. It would be worth getting the ISV off the vehicle and connected up to a power supply to see if it moves smoothly and reliably without sticking or simply fit a new one.

 

Regards - JB

Posted

Idle Speed Control Valve.

 

The engines idle speed is controlled by the electronics. The ECU has direct control over the amount of fuel going into the engine by pulsing the injectors for longer (=more fuel) or shorter (= less fuel) time. In order to keep the mixture at the correct level it also needs to control the amount of air going into the engine. It does this by having an ISCV, when it increases the voltage applied to this valve it opens, the higher the voltage the more it opens. On one side of the valve it's piped into the air cleaner, the other side it's connected into the inlet manifold. What usually happens is the ISCV gets gummed up, it isn't constantly being washed with petrol or oil and it sticks. The UCU ramps up the fuelling and opens the air valve to lift the engine idle, the fuelling goes up but due to a sticking valve the air isn't increased, this gives a rich mixture and the engine stalls.

9 times out of 10 the ISCV is the problem. The usual cure is to take the valve off or just remove one of the pipes and give it a good squirt of carb cleaner. It doesn't always do the trick and it is possible that there are other faults but this is the place to start.

 

Regards - John

Posted

First of all thank you all for your help its much appreciated.

OK i have now cleaned the ISV with carb cleaner and there are signs of improvement , on initial first turn of the key the engine now ticks over without my foot on the accelorater whereas before it wouldn't ,however if i increase the revs quickly then let my foot off it cuts out ! if i increase the revs slowly and not very high then let my foot off gently it continues to tick over ,hope you understand this , could it be i need a new ISV or would it be the something to do with the power controlling the ISV , sorry to be a pain but its driving me mad.

Posted

Try cleaning it some more.

 

Failing that, the ICV lets unmetered air in. When the engine is cold you need more unmetered air. Check your engine temperature sensor. It may be thinking it is colder than in is.

Posted

I'd be very tempted to fit a new valve.

 

Regards - John

  • 2 weeks later...
Guest Gaz
Posted
MY BATTERY IS COMPLETLY KNACKERED , WOULD THIS MAKE ANY DIFFERENCE TO THE WAY CAR RUNS ? IE:CUTTING OUT ?
Posted

yes.....can you please turn the caps off????

 

 

knackered battery =car not running!!....stands to reason really....you need to get a new battery.

Posted

Yep, if the battery is flat your going to get no spark as clearly the alternator is not generating enough power.

 

Your alternator is the most likely suspect here as with a good alternator the car will run with the battery disconnected.

Guest Gaz
Posted
Nope new battery , still cuts out when stopping been on all the machines in garages ect they cant find out why ,anyone got a match ?
Posted

Is the engine properly earthed ?

 

If there was a problem with the earth strap beign a bad connection then that would limit the amount of current that could flow from the alternator which could explain why your battery is going flat.

 

Likewise, a poor ground for the engine could affect the readings from some of the sensors and cause them to give readings that get misinterpreted by the ECU.

 

If you have a multimeter, put it on a very low volt range and connect one lead to Battery -ve and the other lead to the engine block. There will almost certainly be a few millivolts difference but anything higher or wildly fluctuating would indicate a bad connection.

 

At idle the alternator output is very low but just above idle it can output quite a lot more current. With a poor connection on the earth strap this would cause a significant difference in ground potential.

 

It may not have anything to do with your problem but possibly worth a try :o

Posted

Another thought....

 

are the vacuum servo hoses OK.

 

Many years ago I had a transit and that kept dying for seemingly unexplained reasons. Did al the logical things, plugs, points, condensor, plug leads. Would go for a really long drive with no problems then just as I got almost home it cut out.

 

Finally out of sheer desparation I took it to a Ford dealer who sorted in it under 30 minutes. Cracked servo hose that was letting air into the manifold when I pressed the brakes.

 

When I thought back to all the times it cut out, they were all when I was braking.

 

Was going to mention this in my previous reply but I saw no mention of you pressing the brake pedal so discounted it but if a hose was cracked then any slight movement of the engine may cause the crack to open up and weaken the mixture so stalling the engine.

  • 1 month later...

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