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Posted

Hi Guys

 

I wondered if anyone can help me understand the handbrake adjustment mechanism on the rear calipers of my 1996 Galaxy GLX 1.9 Diesel. Its just failed its MOT on "park brake efficiency"

 

Whats happened is that the rear, passenger side handbrake has seized (somewhwere). I whipped the caliper off thinking that the sliding pins had probably stuck, as this happens all the time on my motorbikes, but although one of the pins was 'sticky' rather than stuck, I don't think it was stuck enough to cause the problem.

 

Looking at where the cable attaches at the back of the caliper, it looks as though there is some sort of screw mechanism (possibly with a ratchet as well) which works the piston forwards as the brakes wear. First question is "am I right so far?"

 

I really would like to strip and grease both sides so the next question is "How?"

 

I have seen what I believe to be a similar system on a Citroen Xantia that I used to have, where you had to screw the piston back to fit new pads, however the piston on the Galaxy doesn't seem to want to turn and I'm afraid to force it. Is there anybody out there who has stripped the handbrake mechanism before?

 

Any help would be appreciated

 

Thanks

 

KK

Posted

do a search,iirc you have to undo a bleed nipple on the braking system so you dont bugger up the servo,but more knowlegdable peeps will put you right

 

regards gregers

Posted

The pistons do turn back in. They turn out to keep the pads in close to the disks so the handbreak will work.

 

But my money is on the cable being seized on that side. The handbrake cables are a front section, middle section and two rears, one to each side from a central pull. Remove the non-working side and make sure it slides freely in the sleeve.

Posted
not unusual for the caliper to seize on that side but the piston needs to be wound back with the brake pipe clamped and nipple open ,make sure that the pads are free to move in the caliper ,make sure that the handbrake cable adjuster is wound right off , then pump the pedal until the pedal go's hard ie the pads contact the disc , then pull the hand brake on three clicks put the wheel on and get someone to rotate the wheel while you tighten the cable adjuster until the wheel just starts to bind ,if you then release the handbrake the wheel should rotate freely ,pull hand brake on fully and this should lock the wheel . any further info required pm me
Posted

Thanks all for the replies. Due to bad weather I haven't been able to look at it today but I'm hoping to get back to it tomorrow

 

piston needs to be wound back with the brake pipe clamped and nipple open

Thanks for the info Topbloke, do you know whether it is a left or right hand thread as it will not move either way, and as I said I'm afraid to force it.

 

But my money is on the cable being seized on that side

Masked Marauder. I have a feeling you are probably right and I intend to remove and lubricate ALL the cables whilst I've got the thing in bits

 

KK

Posted
You need to turn the piston clockwise while you are pushing it in,,,,,,,use a rewind tool or long nose pliers,,,,,,it should be resonable stiff to turn,,,,but not that stiff that you wish you where a body builder B)
Posted
clockwise both sides and you will wish that you had three pairs of hands, thats why its best if you can lay your hands on a wind back tool, i tend to gently lift the rubber boot and get a bit of wd40 or something simmliar just to lubricate the seals. good luck and let us know the how you get on B)
Posted
typical bloke that..start with out instructions or dont read the manual!! :D

Typical woman that, got to have the last word....

Guest vr6galaxy
Posted

http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/images/smilies/banghead.gifhttp://www.seatcupra.net/forums/images/smilies/banghead2.gif

Your onto a loser here with mo4 http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/images/smilies/surrender.gif if she was she mine she would be so slapped http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/images/smilies/bruce_lee.gif

 

 

 

http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/images/smilies/runaway.gif

post-62-1142863811.jpg

Posted

i dunno..i get blamed for allsorts!!and i fixed the ruddy washing machine last night aswell. :huh:

 

just got to figure out where the 3 screws i never put back in go.. :P

Posted

Right -

Finally got under the car again today (lousy weather and being soooo cold stopped me the last 2 days.........I'd kill for a garage)

 

It turns out that the handbrake actuating lever on the back of the caliper was stuck, and with a little bit of perseverance and a lot of waggling and working to and fro (steady now Mo4 :lol: ) I managed to free it off. Checked the cable and it was moving freely so I didn't bother trying to take it off to lubricate it, I'll wait for the warmer weather before I do that.

 

Now then ............in the book it says that the handbrake lever mechanism on the rear calipers cannot be overhauled...what I want to know is has anybody ignored that advice and taken it to bits anyway. After all it has nuts and bolts holding it together so surely it can be re-assembled......... can't it????????

 

Just one other gripe.........All the spanner sizes and allen key sizes fall in between the standard sizes supplied in the average socket set etc.

7mm for the front caliper guide pins (sizes in allen key set??............6mm and 8mm) http://www.clicksmilies.com/s0105/sauer/angry-smiley-034.gif

18mm for the rear caliper mounting bolts (sizes in socket set??........17mm and 19mm) http://www.clicksmilies.com/s0105/sauer/angry-smiley-034.gif

I mean....Come on Fraudhttp://www.clicksmilies.com/s0105/sauer/angry-smiley-034.gif....but then I'm not that easily beat :D

 

Its a good job I've never thrown out my Imperial sets of spanners etc.http://www.clicksmilies.com/s0105/sauer/angry-smiley-021.gif

(does that show my age)

 

KK

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