Vw Sharan Pulling To Left

[Dirtbag]

Hi,

 

So glad I found this forum - did a Google on the "VW auxiliary heater" and found this site. So will try to get somewhere to plug in the laptop to see if I have any error codes relating to the auxiliary heater - lashings of white smoke and unburnt diesel all over the heater exhaust! Feared the worst, hoping it's just the glow plug!

 

Anyway...

 

Our Sharan is puling to the left. All the usual stuff has been done - tyres sizes and pressures correct (both sides!). Have just coughed up

[NikpV]

Sorry no comment on the 'pulling left' but

 

6. Lazy tiptronic gearbox: when slowing down (i.e. on approach to roundabout) but finding the road clear, if I hit the gas it takes 2 to 3 seconds for me to get any forward motion - the gearbox seems to take ages to kick down and provide drive. If gearbox is mullered -

[malcolm.dobell]

I know it sounds daft, but do check obvious things like tyre pressures. Then find a one way street with a camber to the right hand curb and drive "on the right". See if the car then pulls to the right. They do seem to pull a bit on cambered roads, especially with wide tyres!

[Justice]

I must admit that road camber dose seem to affect the steering more on the Shalaxy's.

Try it in you local super market car park and see if it still pulls, I have 225/45 tyres on mine and some times I have a fight with the steering when the camber is steep.

[Scorpiorefugee]

I have 2 galaxy TDIs. The old banger with 160k drives like a dream, dead straight and solid on all surfaces and cambers. The 3 year old with 60K just doesn't compare and, while it doesn't do anything really nasty, suffers from cambers and worn or subsided surfaces. The supplier, a ford dealer assured me that everything is as it should be but that means nothing. The oldie has new Avons having done 20k and loads left. The new one has some Japanese FLILKEN or some such and are half worn and slightly scrubbed.

 

The problem is, as always with these things, what is normal and what is caused by mismatched or worn tyres. It seems that three out of three here have a similar problem. How about anyone else?

 

Ron.

[Dirtbag]

Hi and thanks for the replies,

 

I've discounted tyre pressures (digital guage to check) and it pulls left whether in Tesco's or Asda's carparks. Also does it in my work car park. Also - the steering wheel is cocked - not central. If I align the wheel so it's straight, it pulls gently to the right. Taking hands off the wheel and the car starts to drift left and the steering wheel turns off center again.

 

Even if I can get the car to drive in a straight line, I'll still have to get the steering wheel re-aligned!

 

Tyres are Continentals, 215/60 16's. I haven't discounted them not helping matters (nearside tyre is scrubbed on outside edge, offside is fine).

 

The only thing I can think of is it's been so badly adjusted on a tracking machine in the past (i.e. they didn't put the steering wheel straight prior to checking it).

 

Or the vehicle is bent. But nothing on the HPi check......

 

I wouldn't mind paying for someone to find the cause, but I'm fed up of chucking money at a problem no-one has a clue about!!

 

Regards

 

Dirtbag

[Bigjeeze]

I suggest having a look at the wishbone - it could either be bushes knackered or even slightly bent. All it takes is a kerbing - you can't see the damage and it doesn't matter how many times you have it tracked etc.

 

I had a similar problem on my MK1 and this was the final thing that cured it. You can buy a wishbone nowadays for around

[El Dingo]

[Justice]

Easy way to tell if it is your tyres is to swop them round, If it is the tyres it should pull to the other side.

[Dirtbag]

Hi,

 

More sensible replies and potential solutions, more than I've had from the dealer!

 

It would appear that the wife did in fact hit a cast iron bell shapped object (used to restrict road width). I tortured a confession out of her, (the thumb screws didn't do it but threats of no more money for makeup and clothes seemed to have the desired effect). So I suspect there's some damage on the nearside somewhere :rolleyes: I am at a loss for words........

 

So I think what I'll do now is: get my local independant (and trusted) garage to check out the wishbone etc, and maybe replace whatever's bent or damaged. Whilst there I'll get them to replace the glowplug in the auxilary heater.

 

Then maybe I'll head over to Micheldever Tyres for them to check the alignment of the wheels/steering wheel etc. and just get it tracking straight and true.

 

One final question: if say the wishbone is bent (or bushes damaged) and it's replaced - can an outfit like Micheldever Tyres realign the steering wheel? Thought it required the airbag to be disabled by the VAG COM?

 

Also - where can I get a wishbone for

[Dirtbag]

[seatkid]

If its been bashed then the cause could be minor damage.

 

Go to a good trusted MOT centre and ask them to check the track rod ends particularly the side that was bashed. The track rod end ball joint may be shot - causes drift- or the track rod may just be bent slightly - needing readjustment. If the joints are OK then any good quality tyre centre will laser track for between

[Scorpiorefugee]

If they are that bad they may not have made sure that the tracking adjustment rods (Don't know the proper term) are of equal length. If your motor has had serious work, as seems likely, they may be far enough out to completely wreck the feel of the thing.

 

I'm sure that SK and the others know more about this than I do but I have had a nasty experience many years ago.

[malcolm.dobell]

I wonder if SEATkid has sussed the problem? He said that the stering will want to self centre if the steering wheel is off centre.

 

When the garage went to check my tracking they very carefullt centred the steering wheel and then locked it in that position. Only then did they check the tracking - lathough it didn't need adjustment.

[Scorpiorefugee]

If they did it in that sequence, that would put things out of balance.

 

I believe that the correct sequence is to do the tracking from both sides and make sure that the two arms are equal at the end. Then centre the steering wheel. If all osf this is necessary, something pretty major has happened.

 

I understand that if the two arms aren't equal, the tracking may be correct straight ahead but the geometry will be wrong on corners. If you look at the angles from underneath you may be able to understand this possible problem. It's a matter of seeing how the distance between the ball joint at the wheel end and a fixed point on the rod coming out of the rack changes as the wheel is turned and the arm angle changes. This helps to make sure that the outer wheel on a corner turns less than the inner one This effect must be the same on both sides and this can only happen if the rods are of equal length measured ball joint to ball joint. Normally, any adjusment required will be minimal and can be done from one side only but, if major work has been done.......????

 

I may be wide of the mark here but the importance is there and it is relatively easy to check if you can get underneath. more than 1/8" difference needs sorting.

[El Dingo]

Expect to pay Micheldever

[El Dingo]

If they did it in that sequence, that would put things out of balance.

 

I believe that the correct sequence is to do the tracking from both sides and make sure that the two arms are equal at the end. Then centre the steering wheel. If all osf this is necessary, something pretty major has happened.

 

I understand that if the two arms aren't equal, the tracking may be correct straight ahead but the geometry will be wrong on corners. If you look at the angles from underneath you may be able to understand this possible problem. It's a matter of seeing how the distance between the ball joint at the wheel end and a fixed point on the rod coming out of the rack changes as the wheel is turned and the arm angle changes. This helps to make sure that the outer wheel on a corner turns less than the inner one This effect must be the same on both sides and this can only happen if the rods are of equal length measured ball joint to ball joint. Normally, any adjusment required will be minimal and can be done from one side only but, if major work has been done.......????

 

I may be wide of the mark here but the importance is there and it is relatively easy to check if you can get underneath. more than 1/8" difference needs sorting.

Sorry, but this isn't really right. :rolleyes:

 

The actual length of the track rod won't have any effect on the steering geometry. The correct procedure is to centre and lock the steering wheel, then loosen and adjust the rod lengths to set the toe angle.

[Dirtbag]

OK.

 

Blimey - so much to digest!

 

Quick history:

 

The car was pulling to the left, so I checked pressures and road-tested. Same story. So I had the tracking checked at the local independant tyre outlet, and they made some adjustment.

 

It was OK for a while, could easily have been the road camber.

 

Then after incedent "wife with cast iron bollard" - it's worse than ever, but it was still not right even prior to this.

 

I booked the vehicle into main dealer to have a 4 wheel track and camber check, as I'm unable to find an independant who can look at it. On collection, the streeing wheel is still off-center and it still drifts to the left. I had this work done just as a starting point, i.e. as an elimination of it being a track/camber issue. I only trust the work was done by the main dealer correctly.

 

So, if the track & camber is correct (at manufacturer settings), there has to be something else......

 

I agree with a lot of what is being said here. If I'm being honest, I'd say I think the whole tracking/steering/alignment thing nneds to be looked at as a whole (which I thought the VW track & camber check did). I'm not discounting there being something bent, but I just need a good garage to identify that as being what is wrong! It's got so bad (along with all the other problems) that the wife wants to get shut and get a Previa............

 

It's all a question of who I trust to get the vehicle sorted. I do not trust the main dealer; they've been polite and courteous, but sadly unable to cure they're own breed of it's ailment, and even mis-diagnose other faults.

 

The steering issue is spoiling a nice vehicle!

 

Dirtbag

[seatkid]

I believe that the correct sequence is to do the tracking from both sides and make sure that the two arms are equal at the end. Then centre the steering wheel. If all osf this is necessary, something pretty major has happened.

 

I understand that if the two arms aren't equal, the tracking may be correct straight ahead but the geometry will be wrong on corners.

I'm afraid you'r'e wrong about this.

 

The steering wheel straight position signifies the rack is centered.

 

Track rod ends are not made to a great dimensional accuracy and the position of the rack relative to the wheels can vary a little as can the wheel to wheel distance. Thats why both ends are adjustable.

 

The steering geometry (both straight and on lock) depends on the wishbone and strut geometry, nothing to do with rack/track rods.

[Scorpiorefugee]

Er... What if the steering wheel has been removed and fitted in the wrong position?

 

When I said "If they did it in that sequence", I was referring to what the garage did.

 

I meant that the steering wheel should be removed and fitted in the centre position after my suggested procedure.

 

If the steering wheel and mechanism has not been disturbed from new, either by hand or damage, then everything else is fine. My suggested procedure assumes the worst and gives a totally reliable starting point for further investigation.

 

I've learned two things about steering and fault finding in general.

 

Never assume that an "expert" fully understands mathematics and, in particular geometry. In fact very few do.

 

In fault finding, you need to go back to basics to establish at least one thing you can rely on.

 

I'm only trying to be helpful..

 

Ron.

 

PS

 

Expert = Ex + Spert.

 

Ex = "has been"

 

Spurt = "drip under pressure."

 

 

spot the deliberate mistake.

[seatkid]

;) OK, whatever. point(s) taken.

 

Believe me it would be extremely difficult to measure the length of a track rod. From where to where? And of course the track rod is S shaped. :)

 

To make sure the steering wheel has been fitted in the correct position, start at the straight ahead position, it should have exact no of turns to lock to left and to right.

 

Geometry is not affected significantly by unequal track rod lengths.

 

I'm only trying to be helpful..

And you are Ron! - no-one is the ulimate expert here - the one the forum would refer to as "God" :)

[Scorpiorefugee]

Good.

 

There's nothing like a good exchange of views to get things straight (Pardon the pun)

 

In the past I've been forced to extreme measures to avoid paying

[Dirtbag]

No - my thread hasn't been hijacked, and I appreciate ALL opinions and advice. Reason being - on here it's free and may just point me towards a cure, and that at the end of the day is what the end result (i.e. my post) is all about - a cure.

 

So thank you all who have taken time to post your views :)

 

I will of course update the thread when I get to the bottom of the problem.

 

I will speak to my local, trusted independant garage, try to guide their investigation and see what unfolds.

 

Oh - one other question before I drop off for a while: is it possible to get the center seat in the middle converted to a 3 point belt? It's a factory sitted option from new. I have 2 kids and a 3rd due in April, and would prefer my eldest to be in the middle rather than in the boot (will have 3 kids under 3 years old and all need child seats!)

 

DB

[Guest vr6galaxy]

Unfortuately retrofitting an OE three point belt isnt a do able option unless the mountin plates are installed in the body shell ;) you can fit an after market three point belt though :) but you will loose some boot space and ease of access to the rear two seats :)

 

ps, Carat is spelt with a C not a K ;)

[AndeeeH]

Just a suggestion for your seat dilemma, wouldn't one/two of the child cum adult seats fit the bill. You can use the fold out child harness option in any seat position regardless of the seat belt fittings then alter the positions as your kids grow. They are megabucks from a dealer but crop up fairly regularily on ebay and go for about