Towed Back From Night Out

[jimjamjo]

I maybe a little stupid here :blink: ,,,,,but do you have a spare key,,,,,I would try that,,,,,,,this post sounds as if your chip in the key is missing or faulty :unsure:

no dice but thanks for the suggestion

[Guest neil_wiles]

blocked exhaust or collapsed catalytic converter.

still getting plenty of smoke out of the exhaust but I did drop a nut down the exhaust pipe when I changed the manifold gasket a few weeks ago :unsure:

If the nut you dropped has passed through the Turbo it is a real possibility that the compressor has been severley damaged buy the nut and debri is likely to have either entered the engine through the inlet valves or indeed may have caused one or more to be jammed in an open condition hence you would get unburnt clouds of diesel smoke from the exhaust.

 

My suggestion would be to get a compression gauge, remove the injectors and check the compression, on the early 1.9 TDi the injectors are conveniently at the front of the block. Indeed you could use the glowplug holes if the injectors are siezed (normal).

 

Clearly cranking is not a problem but the valve seats may already be damaged and reduced compression and leakage would be occuring.

 

It is possible for the engine to run with assistance as the speed of compression may overcome the leak once the engine is firing, have this on a Gal with a leaking injector seal at this very moment.

[jimjamjo]

Hi Mate

 

The nut went down the downpipe while the exhaust was disconnected from the turbo so won't expect it to come back up again.

 

I've pretty much ruled out engine mechanical failure as the car died suddenly without misfire or noise.

[jimjamjo]

Hi

 

Is there a engine warning light on the 1.9 anyone please? I've never seen one on start up.

 

The only contender when you shine a torch on there is what looks like a 1 between two arrows.

 

I made the mistake of leaving the owners manual under the drivers seat when the car had a leak a few years ago :unsure:

[Masked Marauder]

Just the glowplug light flashing chap.

[johnb80]

blocked exhaust or collapsed catalytic converter.

still getting plenty of smoke out of the exhaust but I did drop a nut down the exhaust pipe when I changed the manifold gasket a few weeks ago :unsure:

If the nut you dropped has passed through the Turbo it is a real possibility that the compressor has been severley damaged buy the nut and debri is likely to have either entered the engine through the inlet valves or indeed may have caused one or more to be jammed in an open condition hence you would get unburnt clouds of diesel smoke from the exhaust.

 

My suggestion would be to get a compression gauge, remove the injectors and check the compression, on the early 1.9 TDi the injectors are conveniently at the front of the block. Indeed you could use the glowplug holes if the injectors are siezed (normal).

 

Clearly cranking is not a problem but the valve seats may already be damaged and reduced compression and leakage would be occuring.

 

It is possible for the engine to run with assistance as the speed of compression may overcome the leak once the engine is firing, have this on a Gal with a leaking injector seal at this very moment.

If the nut was dropped down the exhaust how on earth would it get back to the inlet ??????

[seatkid]

I think youre barking up the wrong tree.... a sudden refusal to start points to an electrical or fuel problem -

 

lost compression etc would simply show as an increasing difficultly to start etc...the lost nut in the downpipe is a red herring.

 

If you have lots of fuel in the tank then there should be no bubbles in the fuel line. IIRC The PD engines have an electric fuel pump located in the tank, just because there is 12 volts there or even the noise of an operating pump (a shush when ignition is turned on) it doesnt mean that fuel is actually being pumped. My Golf stopped suddenly and refused to restart. The fuel pump sounded healthy, but on closer examination an internal seal failure in the pump stopped it pumping.

 

So first establish the pump is working by taking off the supply line to the filter and turn on the ignition, it should gush out like a tap, if its a dribble then the pump is faulty.

[Masked Marauder]

I think it is not a PD, so no electric pump.

 

I agree that if there is compression and there is fuel and the timing is right then it should run. So one of the three is missing.

 

But we know with easy-start it will almost run. So my money is on the fuel or the pump timing, but I don't see how the pump timing could have gone out all on it's own.

[seatkid]

I think it is not a PD, so no electric pump.

Whoops! :unsure: How did I miss that?

 

Ignore my comments about the fuel pump!

 

What about the fuel filter - when was it last changed? Could be full of water. It can be drained...

 

A blockage in the fuel line is another possiblity (debris,sugar,sand) - my mums sierra fell victim to that one....

 

Finally isnt there a fuel cutoff solenoid somewhere or is that in the distributor pump?

[Masked Marauder]

The cut-off is in the pump.

[jimjamjo]

Theres clouds of white smoke out of the back when its towed in gear and and a big patch of black soot on the floor by the exhaust when its stationary

 

Unscrewing the fuel pipe on an injector gets spurts of fuel out of the pipe

 

The only visible sign of a problem the morning after the breakdown was that main power relay 109 was half out of its socket. Retracing the journey, I'd driven over a speed bump about 400 yrds before. I've tried a new smaller grey replacement relay but no different.

[Masked Marauder]

White smoke is incomplete combustion. Pump and valve timing.

[jimjamjo]

Had another look under the timing cover, the belt looks fine, the tensioner appears ok but its hard to see the alignment marks on the tensioner without taking it all apart.

 

I put some rough tippex marks on the cam and fuel cogs before doing the valve timing. I lined all the cogs up by the book e.g. bar in the end of the cam and rod through the pump cog and forgot about the Tippex . But looking at the tippex marks now, the fuel sprocket may be one cog out based on the Tippex. :unsure:

 

Its run fine for 400 miles - I remember tightening the tensioner to 20Nm so can't see how it would slip?

[Guest marcusheawood]

I categorically agree with MM, it is the pump timing.

 

It is NOT sufficient for the timing to 'look' OK, I mean if it was a whole tooth out the engine wouldn't even run! It is a very critical adjustment involving accurate measuring equipment.

 

Mind you, the catalyst might be knackered as well from the speed bump...

[jimjamjo]

A piece of the grooved intermediate shaft pulley under the fuel filter pulley has snapped off as a result of something lodging behind it. Replacement sprocket =

[johnb80]

I assume you mean injection pump pulley?

 

Regards - JB

[jimjamjo]

Yes mate

[johnb80]

Glad you've found the problem and hope it's not too expensive to fix, have you done it yet?

 

Regards - JB

[jimjamjo]

A bit tricky - busy time of year for me - I've got the mounting off so far.

 

I've priced up the cog at

[johnb80]

Usual one for crank pulley nuts is get a socket on it, wedge the tommy bar near a chassis member and flick the starter.

 

My method is to get a long tube (3 to 4 ft), get a fair bit of pressure on it and then hit down near the end of it with a hammer. Usually a couple of good hits will loosen the nut.

 

Regards - JB

[jimjamjo]

Cheers JB

 

I was inclined to go that route after flying through the air when the wrench slipped off the hub nut a few weeks ago trying to get the 150Nm + 90 degrees

 

Looking through the old posts (I've just realised that the default search is only past 30 days :o ), theres one about an electric impact wrench to undo the crank pulley. It seems a bit of a cop out but garages use air tools...

 

prolly pick up this tomorrow am:

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/product.asp?p...13&r=2047&g=107

 

:P

[Masked Marauder]

Put a long bar on the socket, brace against the chassis/ground and click the starter motor over.

[Masked Marauder]

Usual one for crank pulley nuts is get a socket on it, wedge the tommy bar near a chassis member and flick the starter.

 

My method is to get a long tube (3 to 4 ft), get a fair bit of pressure on it and then hit down near the end of it with a hammer. Usually a couple of good hits will loosen the nut.

 

Regards - JB

lol, just read this....

[jimjamjo]

MM

 

2 posts with the same advice = a good recommendation :P

 

I remember doing that a few years back on an old banger and it popped off nice and easy.

 

The Haynes says 90Nm + 90 degrees which seems a piece of cake

 

It feels like 200Nm trying to get it off at the moment.

 

I might go with the wrench anyhow as the spend has been authorised by the wife. I managed to get her to agree to an engine crane a few weeks back

 

:o

[johnb80]

Usual one for crank pulley nuts is get a socket on it, wedge the tommy bar near a chassis member and flick the starter.

 

My method is to get a long tube (3 to 4 ft), get a fair bit of pressure on it and then hit down near the end of it with a hammer. Usually a couple of good hits will loosen the nut.

 

Regards - JB

lol, just read this....

Great minds think alike does that mean I'm now reaching your standard MM ?

 

Regards - JB