Cold Hose

[marty16610]

RIGHT! Took the car for a good run today here's what happens. Temp gauge starts to move after about 2-2 1/2 miles, it slowly creeps up to the "m" on gauge (which is usually when i switch the heater on) i didn't this time and kept driving until gauge was just before the red. I pulled over and checked the rad and bottom hose, BOTH COLD. Top hose very hot, System is pressurised, coolant level between min & max marks. Total driven 14 miles round town 30-40 MPH.

 

If its an airlock how can i shift it? Ive squeezed the top and bottom hoses what else? Cheers in desperation :angry:

[Masked Marauder]

I sse you have changed the thermostat. I would be inclined to remove it and see what happens if you run without it, although it is sounding like a knackered water pump. I really don't think it is an air-lock. normally a symptom of that is a cold heater. It could be a blocked rad, but that would mean taking it off and flushing it.

[GSMGuy]

Hmm, have you removed the top and bottom hoses and run water through the rad with a hose, just to eliminate a blockage??

 

Mike

[marty16610]

Cheers chaps will check rad tomorrow and flush it through.

[MatTdi]

Marty,

For the small cost involved it may well be worth changing the water pump, it does cause some very strange symptoms..

 

As the standard fit pump is a plastic impeller pressed on to a knurled metal shaft it is always possible that when it all gets hot expansion causes the impeller to slip on the shaft untill this happens

http://img.photobox.co.uk/895200112ab10e507846bf182fa2bc42c050d1314addf46908f5e85b.jpg

 

 

The advice that these guys and especially MM gave me saved me a lot of grief have a look at Overheating

 

 

Good luck

 

M@

[Masked Marauder]

I changed my pump a couple of months back as the bearing was shot. There is no need to touch the cam belt. The job is a bit drawn out, but simple enough with the right tools.

[marty16610]

Hi everyone. Ive flushed the rad and its clean as a whistle, i don't think its pump as heaters blow HOT all the time especially the rear one. When i changed the stat i could feel the water pump impeller still attached and spinning with the pulley (it feels metal not plastic). got a feeling its a dodgy stat not opening as there is circulation round engine and heaters but not rad. If pump is u/s would the system pressurise?

 

 

I SHOULD HAVE CALLED THIS TOPIC "COLD RAD" :rolleyes:

[Guest vr6galaxy]

When the pump on my T5 died :( the heaters got very hot :rolleyes: the stat stayed shut apparently? but th system got very hot :o and popped the pressure cap on the expansion bottle dumping most of the coolant down the M6

look for a similer topic by Dannyboy, IIRC he had a similer complaint to yours! fixed IIRC by replaceing the water pump ? :huh:

[marty16610]

RIGHT! I'm getting nowhere with this so i'm going to fit new water pump (at last you all sigh) change stat again, flush engine block and replace antifreeze. If that don't fix it nothing will. Someone recommend a decent antifreeze to use?, currently got blue/green in.

 

 

KEEP WATCHING will update when its done

 

Many thanks for all the great suggestions :rolleyes:

[Ivor_E_Tower]

Someone recommend a decent antifreeze to use?, currently got blue/green in.

Try some red stuff

 

 

 

The 4-year life antifreeze - costs a little more but needs changing less often (unless you think you'll be draining and refilling again soon - in which case why not use the cheapest stuff you can get for a few weeks until you are sure you have sorted the problem, then drain and refill again with "good" stuff. Don't be tempted to use plain water, because of the corrosion issues)

[marty16610]

RIGHT. Got all the bits i need from GFS- water pump complete with housing

[marty16610]

HI. Fitted new pump and stat but didn't get finished-rained off. One question for u, when i fitted the pulley to the new pump its about 5mm off line with the crank and P/S pump pulleys will this be ok or have i a(nother) problem?. It took most of the day to fit it (had to go and get a new belt tensioner pulley and i dont fancy taking it all off again if i dont need to. Cheers all :huh:

[marty16610]

HI ALL. Pump and stat etc fitted at last, been for a long test drive and no change. Still no water flow through the rad. Ive run out of ideas i hope u lot haven't. :lol:

 

ignore previous post about pulley out of line, its OK.

[GSMGuy]

Have you done a full flush both ways - diect to the rad, just to eliminate a collapsed/blocked core?

 

Mike

[marty16610]

GSMGuy-- The rad is the only thing i can put this prob down to. Ive eliminated everything else.

 

Can the rad be reverse flushed in situ or does it need to be removed? I've got plenty of plastic sheet.

 

How can i check that the core isn't collapsed?

 

 

ANYONE????

[Masked Marauder]

I would just remove the top and bottom hoses and put a garden hose in packed with rag and turn on the tap.

[GSMGuy]

As MM suggested...

 

I think the No1 thing we have to establish is that water can easily flow through the rad... Do it in situ, but basically you wanna put the hose in the bottom of the rad and have water gushing out of the top and vice versa... This will eliminate another item...

 

 

Mike

[marty16610]

Thanks MM-- I will try that at the weekend hopefully that will sort it, but dont put any money on it, lol.

 

On top of everything else i have had the dreaded screen washer tube joint flood. Passenger footwell soaked and taking ages to dry out. I cut out a large section of soundproofing and stuffing newspapers under the rest daily to soak up as much water as possible. :lol: :huh: :) :)