GSMGuy Posted September 23, 2005 Report Posted September 23, 2005 Just tell 'em - don't lift on the sills and make sure when liftin on the subframe mounts that the arms on the lift don't catch the sills then either.. Mike Quote
jkspoff Posted September 23, 2005 Author Report Posted September 23, 2005 I have been told by several garages that they only have the 4 arm lifts, and that they can only lift it on the sills, is there a garage that uses a different type ? Quote
jkspoff Posted September 23, 2005 Author Report Posted September 23, 2005 another way is to get them to sign a typed statement that they are responsible for any damage to bodywork...if theyre willling... Do you use a signed statement ? If you do could I have a copy please, or take a look at the way you've worded it....... Quote
seatkid Posted September 23, 2005 Report Posted September 23, 2005 I have been told by several garages that they only have the 4 arm lifts, and that they can only lift it on the sills, is there a garage that uses a different type ?Thats nonsense, they should use rubber blocks,even wood blocks to chock between the pad and the chassis points. If they say they can only lift on sills then walk away and find somewhere else. A lot of garage have drive on lifts, you only need a 4 point lift if the wheels have to hang (brakes etc). The Shalaxy (or any other car for that matter) should never be lifted on the sills (except using the provided jack for wheel changing only). It will cause body damage and is IMO an extremely dangerous practice. Do you use a signed statement ?I don't use garages. I DIY since all the damage I've suffered at their hands... Quote
jkspoff Posted September 23, 2005 Author Report Posted September 23, 2005 [i don't use garages. I DIY since all the damage I've suffered at their hands... Thanks for your advice. Ok, I've made my mind up then to do a bit of DIY.....what will I need to safely do basic items, like oil changes etc. I have all the necessary tools for basics, but what requirements for getting underneath it......? Quote
seatkid Posted September 23, 2005 Report Posted September 23, 2005 What I do for oil changes is simple. No jacking, just have to lie down (dirty clothes)Mines a Mk 1 so the engine tray is different but still think the same procedure would apply. make sure you have the correct oil, filter and a new sump plug. Plus a tool for removing the oil filter cover. Car on drive, handbrake on. Trickiest bit....Remove the six bolts holding the undertray....see below Lower it to the ground. No need to remove as this acts as a drip tray should your bowl not catch all the oil. Put an old washing up bowl under sump and remove sump plug and drain. While its draining, from the top of the engine, change the oil filter. AFAIK in your case, you have to pull off the top engine cover and use an appropriate tool to unscrew the filter top. Pull out old element and replace. Screw top back on, replace engine cover. Put in new sump plug. Fill with correct oil to proper level. Start engine, check for leaks. refit engine undertray. Recheck Oil level....... Pick a nice day to do it though... Quote
jkspoff Posted September 23, 2005 Author Report Posted September 23, 2005 Excellent, thanks for the advice and diagram, I will have a go this weekend, weather permitting ! at least I'll know that the correct oil has been used and quantity, and the sills haven't been crushed, and there aren't mucky marks all over the interior ! ;) Quote
Justice Posted September 25, 2005 Report Posted September 25, 2005 I had a Chrysler Voyager and took it to a garage to have the gearbox sorted out when I went to pick it up a few days later, they gave me the keys and said it's just round the corner, I signed the paper work as it was done under warenty and went to the car to find that it had a new bonet grill and bumper, aparently they had finished it parked it outdside and a delivery driver reversed into it, funny thing was they were'nt going to tell me, not only did they think I was blind but they must have known I would suspect the front numberplate was'nt on the back seat when I took it there :P Quote
jkspoff Posted September 26, 2005 Author Report Posted September 26, 2005 OK, thats done, with the proper oil, filter etc. It was a bit difficult getting to the bolts holding the undertray on, without it being jacked up, but once that was off it acted as a drip catcher. The only thing I didn't/couldn't replace was the sump seal washer, I couldn't get the old one off, it looked like new though, so next time I'll make sure its replaced. I'm sure its the first time the proper oil has been used, as the dealer tried to tell me that it was the standard Ford oil used by all Ford cars, but I got the correct type, it just goes to show that most Galaxys are driving around with the wrong oil in. :P Quote
_dg Posted September 26, 2005 Report Posted September 26, 2005 What is wrong with getting the mechanic, pointing to your cills and saying something like .... "Look at my cills. When I collect the car that is what they had better look like. Don't damage them, if you do then you will be paying for their repair" I make a point of telling whoever I hand my keys to of any significant chips,dents, scratches etc and asking if they would like to view the car with me to confirm its condition. I will also not collect the car when it is dark, unless there is suitable floodlit areas for me to inspect on collection. Quote
Guest chrisH Posted September 26, 2005 Report Posted September 26, 2005 Seatkid, Do you not pre fill your new oil filter first, i was always under the impression that it should be filled with new oil , then screwed into place ? Quote
seatkid Posted September 26, 2005 Report Posted September 26, 2005 Well done, jkspoff! :D Do you feel that sense of a job well done as well as saving a few quid? :D The only thing I didn't/couldn't replace was the sump seal washer, I couldn't get the old one off, it looked like new though, so next time I'll make sure its replaced. Its not meant to come apart. VW sell the plug/washer togother for 90p. But to be honest, I've never found a great need to change the old one...Do you not pre fill your new oil filter first, i was always under the impression that it should be filled with new oil , then screwed into place ?Well, if youre a pedantic/perfectionist, then yes, but any more than 2/3rd full and it makes a mess screwing it back on.. Not sure you can do this on the new style PD engine filters as it may just drain back to the sump... :lol: Quote
Masked Marauder Posted September 26, 2005 Report Posted September 26, 2005 Its not meant to come apart. VW sell the plug/washer togother for 90p. But to be honest, I've never found a great need to change the old one... When I changed my oil the copper washer had been crushed so much by over tightening that it was see-through. Lucky I have a box of assorted copper washers that I acquired from work..... Quote
jkspoff Posted September 27, 2005 Author Report Posted September 27, 2005 Well done, jkspoff! Do you feel that sense of a job well done as well as saving a few quid? Yes, its a great sense of achievment to DIY, knowing its been done properly and not over filled ! Now for the pollen filter, done this bit before, so thats a task for the weekend. Thanks for your help. Quote
deadpool2e Posted October 18, 2005 Report Posted October 18, 2005 just noticed my sills have been crushed??? i have straitened as best i can with a hammer and painted it in a coat of sill paint (like a black tar kind of paint). will this do the job?? Quote
Ivor_E_Tower Posted October 19, 2005 Report Posted October 19, 2005 Aye, if you've fixed them with a hammer, then that's surely a good job.Paint that you used was Hammerite, I hope ??? :lol: Quote
jkspoff Posted July 3, 2006 Author Report Posted July 3, 2006 Once again I have had my sills crushed by an inept garage, I can't really be bothered to claim against them, its just too much time and hassle, so what can be done to straighten them as a DIY job. Rather than spending more money on getting them done by a body shop ? Should I just jack it up and use a hammer, or is there a more professional approach to it ? :( Quote
steve67car Posted July 4, 2006 Report Posted July 4, 2006 get a large jawwed pair of mole grips and that with strong tugs should bring it back but i would go in guns blazing with the old repair bill and have the manager to one side and read the roit act forcefully but with tack if that dont work wring his f**king neck :lol: Quote
steve67car Posted July 5, 2006 Report Posted July 5, 2006 did say read riot act forcefully but with tact first :rolleyes: Quote
jkspoff Posted July 5, 2006 Author Report Posted July 5, 2006 But they could still just blankely refuse that is was any fault of their own. I have no proof, other than a previous invoice from a year ago from getting them fixed. Quote
jkspoff Posted July 5, 2006 Author Report Posted July 5, 2006 Sorry for the ignorance on this, but what are 'jawwed mole grips', I do a bit of DIY now and again but I don't think my limited tool kit goes as far as these ? Quote
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