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Posted

I have a 2002 115psi Galaxy Ghia TDI.

 

I've looked through previous posts and found plenty of discussion relating to when the belt should be changed. There doesn't appear however to be a definitive reference to what is actually involved practically and the problems that could be encountered.

 

I found a link to a Sealy Diesel Engine Setting kit costing

Posted

You must also change the tensioner and the idler roller at the same time - they cost more than the belt!

 

Full illustrated procedure is on the TIS Cd.

 

Q. Why at my VW dealer does a cambelt change cost 50%+ more on a Sharan 1.9Tdi than other 1.9Tdi models? Its the same engine......

Posted
Because they're ripping owners of 'more expensive' cars off, and they charge extra for bending the sills and the time taken deciding which parts to 'forget' to fit such as undertray fasteners.
Posted
You must also change the tensioner and the idler roller at the same time - they cost more than the belt!

 

Full illustrated procedure is on the TIS Cd.

 

Q. Why at my VW dealer does a cambelt change cost 50%+ more on a Sharan 1.9Tdi than other 1.9Tdi models? Its the same engine......

Because the engine in the bay of a Sharan is a pig to work on.

Posted
Other than for Waranty purposes I have never taken a car of mine into a Garage to have work done, I have always done it myself. and if I can't fix it I scrap it ;)
Guest vr6galaxy
Posted

 

Did I tell you about the MOT where the car was in exactly the same position when I picked it up to where I left it earlier? :o ;)

Nope! but I once walked off with the keys to a car I dropped off for an MOT! they had the cheek to try it on and tell me it failed and needed work doing! of which they could do at a good price plus it would save me the cost of a re test :o

Guest neil_wiles
Posted

Hi gents

 

As for the timing belt on a 115 the standard time AFAIR is 3.25 hours and the parts from Frauds came to

Posted

 

I don't seem any harm in that if they get the timing right.

Isn't there a technique of changing the Cambelt that involves splitting the old one in half along the belt, having removed half you push the new belt half on then chop the old one off, thus preserving the timing?

Guest marcusheawood
Posted

...would you just hold a stanley knife to it whilst it was running then? ;)

 

Sounds insanely dangerous, I cannot believe anyone would be so stupid as to try it.

I'll give it a go on my T4 and let you know how I get on! :P

 

If the OP doesn't know how to change a cambelt should he try? I think not.

Posted
The problem with the 'split belt' technique is that it does not allow for changing the tensioner. In addition, it is advisable to follow the instructions regarding loosening of the cam pulley bolts - this allows the pulley to rotate slightly to remove the tension from the tight side of the belt to ease fitment without rotating the crank or cam which should be locked in position anyway. This will also ensure that the timing is not affected by any slight variation in belt length.
Posted

I plan to change mine next year (at 70k / 7+years ;) ) using the lazy way. Use a trichem marker to paint belt and all sprockets with reference points. Undo tensioner and roller. Remove belt, mark up new belt and count teeth to crosscheck. Fit new belt, tensioner and roller. Double check marks........

 

Plus lots of photos, just in case.....

Posted

Well somebody's definitely been ripped off.

 

Last time I had mine done (still have the receipt), was Hans Motors in Maidenhead - they do a lot of company cars.

 

Done in 2001, 70k on clock.

 

They changed both Timing belt and Alternator belt for

Posted

Did they change the tensioner as well?

 

I only ask as on my previous car my local garage changed the cambelt at its due time, 15k miles later I could hear a flapping noise under the bonnet... after some investigation I discovered that the cam belt flapping, slowly disintegrating (lots of rubber bits everywhere). I took it back to the garage and they informed me that it was because the tensioner had not been changed - they received notice from Audi after the date they had done mine that it had to be changed.... hmmmm ;)

 

G.

Posted

It's not listed, but I have not had any problem with it for 50k miles/4 years.

 

I also had a good look at the belts last week, when I was under the car and they look in good nick.

Posted

When I changed my belt after is snapped at 103K (The belt was probably the original) the tensioner & idler roller were absolutley smooth running and fine. Seemed a shame to bin them, but in the bin they must go.

 

Now my aux belt tensioner was a different story........

Posted
When I changed my belt after is snapped at 103K (The belt was probably the original) the tensioner & idler roller were absolutley smooth running and fine. Seemed a shame to bin them, but in the bin they must go.

 

Now my aux belt tensioner was a different story........

Did it snap, strip teeth or become detached?

Guest marcusheawood
Posted

...t-h-a-t-s b-e-c-a-u-s-e ...

 

YOU CAN'T TELL IF A CAMBELTS OK JUST BY LOOKING AT IT!!!!!!!

 

Change it when you're supposed to dude (buncers) or pay the piper! :unsure:

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