fireski Posted September 20, 2005 Report Posted September 20, 2005 I have a 2002 115psi Galaxy Ghia TDI. I've looked through previous posts and found plenty of discussion relating to when the belt should be changed. There doesn't appear however to be a definitive reference to what is actually involved practically and the problems that could be encountered. I found a link to a Sealy Diesel Engine Setting kit costing Quote
Masked Marauder Posted September 20, 2005 Report Posted September 20, 2005 They are required. The timing is critical. Quote
seatkid Posted September 20, 2005 Report Posted September 20, 2005 You must also change the tensioner and the idler roller at the same time - they cost more than the belt! Full illustrated procedure is on the TIS Cd. Q. Why at my VW dealer does a cambelt change cost 50%+ more on a Sharan 1.9Tdi than other 1.9Tdi models? Its the same engine...... Quote
tim-spam Posted September 20, 2005 Report Posted September 20, 2005 Because they're ripping owners of 'more expensive' cars off, and they charge extra for bending the sills and the time taken deciding which parts to 'forget' to fit such as undertray fasteners. Quote
paulmpaciorek Posted September 20, 2005 Report Posted September 20, 2005 Just got a quote for cambelt change off my local independent VW specialist.. Quote
Masked Marauder Posted September 20, 2005 Report Posted September 20, 2005 You must also change the tensioner and the idler roller at the same time - they cost more than the belt! Full illustrated procedure is on the TIS Cd. Q. Why at my VW dealer does a cambelt change cost 50%+ more on a Sharan 1.9Tdi than other 1.9Tdi models? Its the same engine...... Because the engine in the bay of a Sharan is a pig to work on. Quote
paulmpaciorek Posted September 20, 2005 Report Posted September 20, 2005 Hi all Just rang VW stealers...they quote Quote
fireski Posted September 20, 2005 Author Report Posted September 20, 2005 Thanks for all the helpful advice, posted so speedily! Has anyone got an appropriate Diesel Engine Setting Kit that they are willing to hire out near to Telford in Shropshire?! Quote
Justice Posted September 21, 2005 Report Posted September 21, 2005 Other than for Waranty purposes I have never taken a car of mine into a Garage to have work done, I have always done it myself. and if I can't fix it I scrap it ;) Quote
Guest vr6galaxy Posted September 21, 2005 Report Posted September 21, 2005 Did I tell you about the MOT where the car was in exactly the same position when I picked it up to where I left it earlier? :o ;) Nope! but I once walked off with the keys to a car I dropped off for an MOT! they had the cheek to try it on and tell me it failed and needed work doing! of which they could do at a good price plus it would save me the cost of a re test :o Quote
Guest neil_wiles Posted September 22, 2005 Report Posted September 22, 2005 Hi gents As for the timing belt on a 115 the standard time AFAIR is 3.25 hours and the parts from Frauds came to Quote
Andrew T Posted September 22, 2005 Report Posted September 22, 2005 I don't seem any harm in that if they get the timing right. Isn't there a technique of changing the Cambelt that involves splitting the old one in half along the belt, having removed half you push the new belt half on then chop the old one off, thus preserving the timing? Quote
Guest marcusheawood Posted September 22, 2005 Report Posted September 22, 2005 ...would you just hold a stanley knife to it whilst it was running then? ;) Sounds insanely dangerous, I cannot believe anyone would be so stupid as to try it.I'll give it a go on my T4 and let you know how I get on! :P If the OP doesn't know how to change a cambelt should he try? I think not. Quote
tim-spam Posted September 23, 2005 Report Posted September 23, 2005 The problem with the 'split belt' technique is that it does not allow for changing the tensioner. In addition, it is advisable to follow the instructions regarding loosening of the cam pulley bolts - this allows the pulley to rotate slightly to remove the tension from the tight side of the belt to ease fitment without rotating the crank or cam which should be locked in position anyway. This will also ensure that the timing is not affected by any slight variation in belt length. Quote
seatkid Posted September 23, 2005 Report Posted September 23, 2005 I plan to change mine next year (at 70k / 7+years ;) ) using the lazy way. Use a trichem marker to paint belt and all sprockets with reference points. Undo tensioner and roller. Remove belt, mark up new belt and count teeth to crosscheck. Fit new belt, tensioner and roller. Double check marks........ Plus lots of photos, just in case..... Quote
Buncers Posted September 23, 2005 Report Posted September 23, 2005 Well somebody's definitely been ripped off. Last time I had mine done (still have the receipt), was Hans Motors in Maidenhead - they do a lot of company cars. Done in 2001, 70k on clock. They changed both Timing belt and Alternator belt for Quote
Rallim Posted September 23, 2005 Report Posted September 23, 2005 Did they change the tensioner as well? I only ask as on my previous car my local garage changed the cambelt at its due time, 15k miles later I could hear a flapping noise under the bonnet... after some investigation I discovered that the cam belt flapping, slowly disintegrating (lots of rubber bits everywhere). I took it back to the garage and they informed me that it was because the tensioner had not been changed - they received notice from Audi after the date they had done mine that it had to be changed.... hmmmm ;) G. Quote
Buncers Posted September 24, 2005 Report Posted September 24, 2005 It's not listed, but I have not had any problem with it for 50k miles/4 years. I also had a good look at the belts last week, when I was under the car and they look in good nick. Quote
Guest marcusheawood Posted September 24, 2005 Report Posted September 24, 2005 Oh, well that's ok then... ;) Quote
Masked Marauder Posted September 24, 2005 Report Posted September 24, 2005 When I changed my belt after is snapped at 103K (The belt was probably the original) the tensioner & idler roller were absolutley smooth running and fine. Seemed a shame to bin them, but in the bin they must go. Now my aux belt tensioner was a different story........ Quote
seatkid Posted September 24, 2005 Report Posted September 24, 2005 When I changed my belt after is snapped at 103K (The belt was probably the original) the tensioner & idler roller were absolutley smooth running and fine. Seemed a shame to bin them, but in the bin they must go. Now my aux belt tensioner was a different story........ Did it snap, strip teeth or become detached? Quote
Masked Marauder Posted September 24, 2005 Report Posted September 24, 2005 Snapped clean across the belt, no teeth stripped, rips or frays. Quote
Guest marcusheawood Posted September 24, 2005 Report Posted September 24, 2005 ...t-h-a-t-s b-e-c-a-u-s-e ... YOU CAN'T TELL IF A CAMBELTS OK JUST BY LOOKING AT IT!!!!!!! Change it when you're supposed to dude (buncers) or pay the piper! :unsure: Quote
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