Auto "gearstick" Light

[italiastar]

I've just returned from Italy and my neighbour has repaired his MAF sensor thanks to the help from this forum - Thanks SEATkid

 

He now has another problem. The light has gone on his auto gearbox selector - the dealer told him that he has to change the whole circuit board - now the really bad news - they can't get one, they don't know if they will ever get one - helpful as usual....... I don't suppose you can expect much for

[Ivor_E_Tower]

He now has another problem. The light has gone on his auto gearbox selector - the dealer told him that he has to change the whole circuit board

If you mean the one at the base of the selector lever, it costs pence and I am sure that instructions on how to change it have been posted several times on this forum.

[sip]

You will need an Allen key to remove the gear-knob. Once you have removed the knob, pull on the sleeve over the stick, prise the cover from the console (the one that read P/R/N/D etc) and at the base of the gear stick there is the starter inhibitor switch (which costs

[Steve S.]

Dear "Sip"

Regarding this bulb change , I have removed said green diffuser thingy,but am having difficulty removing the actual bulb. I can't make out whether it's in its own black plastic holder or whether its just the glass and two wire tails that you pull. As mine has never worked under what circumstances is it illuminated? ie lights on , ignition on?

Cheers ,

Steve S.

ps anyone please feel free to reply ....goes without saying!

pps any details on bulb size, type and rating?...in case I break it!

[Mauser]

As far as I know the bulb is soldered into the unit, mines bust I cannot remove the arm to replace the bulb either with an LED or a replacement bulb. The holder with the switch on just won't come off for me :), do a search there is another post on this subject. I just live with the blown bulb :).

Cheers Simon

[Steve S.]

Dear Simon,

Thanks for that.Having started I'm determined to get the b....... thing working! I've tried the search, but can't find anything definitive. It does seem however that you have to solder a new bulb in place which MUST mean removing the switch assembly surely? Has anyone done this.Precise instructions would be appreciated! As you suggest ,the whole job,simple though it sounds is not quite as straight forward as it appears.

Look forward to everyone's comments

Steve S.

[Guest stevebm1]

the bulb holder clips on,and should clip off.Yes you do need to solder a new bulb(1.69 from halfords)to the exsiting wires but remove the blown bulb first,just cut it off below the glass part,this leaves you 2 nice pieces to solder the new bulb to.if fords want to charge you 85 quid i'll do it for 84.99.lol!

[Guest docker]

have just replaced my bulb ,

 

got one from MAPLINS if you have one near by. 49p

 

local halfords said they ave never done them but,

 

they where just kids , more interested in pulling the female staff.

 

the maplins bulb wasn't correct but it worked , two long tails to solder to the

 

existing soldered joints ( had to cut old bulb wires )

 

PHIL

[Steve S.]

Dear All,

Have successfully managed to do this job also..today.A couple of pointers may help others:

-You do need to remove the inhibitor switch to which the bulb arm is attached. So unplug the multi -plug from the bottom.The switch itself is stuck on a metal plate with "anti tamper/setting paint" which makes it reluctant to move.I found it easier to remove the console(4 screws)and then prise the whole switch upwards.CARE! use two flat bladed screwdrivers under each side of the switch

-Don't touch the set screw on the top(again painted red)

-Once free of the car you can unsolder/solder bulbs at the bench.

-Halfords do do a suitable bulb but they are not ideal as the tails are not designed for this application and are too short to solder directly.Solder a short bridging piece (1")to the tails initially.The bulb numbers are 284(2.3W) or 286(1.2W) both around the

[Mauser]

Hi Steve,

Glad your sorted m8,

Didn't remove the console so might try your way to remove the arm....mine was just so tight didn't want to bust anything over a blown bulb :unsure:.

Must play again when next time I'm bored, I am sure RS will do a bulb :lol:.

Regards Simon

[italiastar]

Hi Steve,

Glad your sorted m8,

Didn't remove the console so might try your way to remove the arm....mine was just so tight didn't want to bust anything over a blown bulb ;).

Must play again when next time I'm bored, I am sure RS will do a bulb :D.

Regards Simon

I've just seen the latest posts after looking at my neighbour's car. We tried to prise the inhibitor switch off, but saw the above post after we'd given up - worried we may break something.

 

I'm wodering if it's possible to "break off" the red cover round the bulb and remove it with the inhibitor switch in situ as I'm concerned with actually removing the switch as it could cause bigger problems - particularly as this is the part that SEAT claim they cannot obtain.

 

Another thought of ours was to remove the ashtray lamp (not much use if you don't smoke) and extend the wires so that this bulb can be taped next to the gearstick light. Any thoughts anyone?

 

It's good to see that VW have got their priorities right and made it easy to change something as important as the ashtray light.

 

Thanks to everyone for your help

[Steve S.]

Dear Italiastar,

Just seen your post. I sympathise with your reluctance to "give it welly" as it were. It took me a lot of "ponder time" to determine the order and strength of attack. The switch will slide off upwards given firm, determined, yet careful !!!! wigling and prising. It's just that paint that "glues " it on that metal "tag" thats holding it firm. Go for it!

As for your idea about extending the ashtray light, I wouldn't bother..

it sounds at least like a blown fuse waiting to happen or at worst conflagration!

Besides, the gearstick light comes on with the ignition, and the ashtray light with the side/headlight switch..I think!

Best of luck,

Steve S.

[stairforce]

I've just spent a fair slice of yesterday replacing the bulb which indicates the auto selector lever position. This is my first auto (only had it 4 weeks so far) and the bulb was blown when we got the car. I used the Maplin bulb (part no. BT43W, 59p) that others have mentioned. No-one has mentioned the small black plastic slider that clips onto a metal stud on the selector lever. This stud moves down when you press the button on the lever and breaks a contact. The slider engages in a slot on the plastic component which carries the aforementioned bulb.

 

TWO things.

1. It is DEAD EASY to drop this into the well under the selector lever. Recovering it is considerably more difficult. It sits on the stud with the metal strip facing up.

 

2. Does anyone know what this switch does? Mine has been inoperative for the last week, as I just found the metal strip off the slider (you guessed it) at the bottom of the well under the selector lever. But it does not seem to have affected the operation of the car.

[sip]

The reason it's called a starter inhibitor switch is because thats exactly what it does: that little stud which moves up and down on a little cam has a copper strip which opens and closes the switch to prevent you starting the engine in any gear except "P" & "N".

 

If it went missing, your motor would just not start. I had a situation where the copper strip broke off and had to short circuit the wiring to even start my motor.

 

If this stud gets stuck and closes the starter circuit then you would be able to start in any gear, unhealthy on an auto box.

[stairforce]

The reason it's called a starter inhibitor switch is because thats exactly what it does: that little stud which moves up and down on a little cam has a copper strip which opens and closes the switch to prevent you starting the engine in any gear except "P" & "N".

 

If it went missing, your motor would just not start. I had a situation where the copper strip broke off and had to short circuit the wiring to even start my motor.

 

If this stud gets stuck and closes the starter circuit then you would be able to start in any gear, unhealthy on an auto box.

I know that now! :blink: I knew there was an inhibitor switch but figured it woud be on the gearbox itself :o . From observing the operation of the switch at the base of the selector lever, it seemed to be detecting when the button was pushed on the lever. We did have a starting problem at the time, and the AA had discounted the inhibitor switch, but had rigged some kind of bypass so we could get home. Had it fixed - it was not the switch itself but the wiring to it.

 

I've only had it a month and still learning :o