No Go

[golfmadman]

I was going to Wales the weekend to Aberdovey. I was getting a but fed up with this slow driver in front so, as you do, put my foot down to overtake. The Galaxy started to accelerate relatively slowly and I realised that the Turbo had not kicked in. So there I was trying to overtake this car and basically going no where except a white kuckle ride trying to squeeze the Galaxy past before anyone came around the corner about 2 miles ahead!

 

Got to Dovey, albeit slowly, unpacked the car and went our for a meal a couple of hours later and the car was back to normal.

 

Any Ideas what would cause the intermittent power loss?

[HJT]

Sounds like the MAF sensor. Do a search on maf. (include the . or the search engine will throw up an error) and you will find loads of info.

 

Howard

[Guest lewisn1]

I have a simular problem golfmadman.

 

Can cleaning the MAF sensor be done by myself or is it better for the dealer (garage) to do this?

[HJT]

MAF cleaning doesn't really work. It should be replaced. GSF seems to be the best place to order one to fit yourself. Easy to do and works out a lot cheaper than a dealer fit.

 

Howard

[golfmadman]

I have just finished going through questions and answers from a search regarding MAF's (obviously a popular topic) and I think from all your feedbacks the best thing to do is unplug it, if the cars better then get a new one, if no difference come back to you guys for other recommendations.

 

now know what it is, where it is, how to test it and where to get it from. FANTASTIC.

[GSMGuy]

Golfmadman - Stop... I have been getting the same fault with mine for the last week or so, and it ISN'T the MAF! If the MAF is faulty, it will generate a code that can be picked up via VAG-COM, my error code however is: VAG-COM Version: Release 504.1-UD

 

Control Module Part Number: 038 906 019 FA

Component and/or Version: 1,9l R4 EDC G001AG 1457

Software Coding: 00001

Work Shop Code: WSC 00020

1 Fault Found:

17965 - Charge Pressure Control: Positive Deviation

P1557 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent

 

Symtoms are: when in 4th or 5th (auto) Pulls like a train to 4000 in 4th, and 3000 in 5th, then the turbo just seems to "switch off" Stopping and restarting cures it again until the next time...

 

Anyone got any ideas about the faultcode and what it is? I seem to remember that the boost on the 115pd is controlled by moving the angle of vanes in the body of the turbo??

 

Mike

[GSMGuy]

Also, see THIS thread!

 

Mike

[Guest vr6galaxy]

If the MAF is faulty, it will generate a code that can be picked up via VAG-COM,

Not always! three of my failures showed no fault codes!

[dave_m]

I also have the same problem and have replaced the MAF but still have the same problem

[Keithb]

I'm another with the same problem. Just been to the south of France pulling a caravan and had the fault several times. As others have said, stopping and turning off the ignition cures it immediately. I initially suspected the maf but as the fault clears I ruled out the maf. I seem to recall something about a faulty sensor reading to the ecu puts it into limp home mode? - is this the problem or have I confused something. Mines still under warranty and I was planning a visit to the Fraud dealer to get it looked at, when time allows!

[dave_m]

once someone finds a cure for this problem or what part is causing it please let me know as i am reluctant to take it to fraud as they seem to just change random parts at my expense until the problems go away.

 

Last time i had a problem it ended up with me needing a new cylinder head whereas if they had diagnosed the problem correctly when it first went in it would have just been a water pump.

[Guest markae53]

have also had similar problem with losing power (98 "r"plate) - changed the maf and thought problem was cured for about a week, am now back to square 1! have got a tame mechanic who has looked at the problem and he says it is going into limp home mode because the waste gate on the turbo is sticking/buggered/warped.

 

can the turbo be taken apart and the waste gate replaced/repaired? is it a big job?

anyone else heard this?

 

or shall i flog the useless lump and buy a skoda?!!!

 

rgds

 

Mark

[GSMGuy]

Markae - out PD 115's don't have a wastegate...

 

Mike

[dave_m]

:) someone must know what this problem is :) i think i'm gonna have to use the last resort and go to ford :)

[GSMGuy]

Right, mine has been to Ford today for "diagnosis" was quoted

[GSMGuy]

Interesting snippet from tdiclub... In FAQ's on intermittent loss of power no turbo boost..

 

- Turbo control system not operating properly. Clogged, leaking, disconnected, or improperly connected hoses that are involved with controlling the turbo boost pressure will create havoc. Check condition and routing, and replace if necessary.

 

- Turbo VNT mechanism sticking. This only applies to vehicles with a VNT-15 turbocharger ... most A4-chassis models including all A4-chassis models sold in North America, and all 110hp models (A3 or A4 chassis) sold elsewhere. (DON'T READ THIS if your car has a GT15 or K03 turbocharger because they operate in a COMPLETELY different manner.) Locate the diaphragm housing which operates the VNT mechanism (has a single hose going to it, extreme rear of engine compartment, buried down near the bottom right rear of the engine, hose connection faces STRAIGHT DOWN). Locate (by feel with a finger) the linkage rod which points straight up out the center of that diaphragm housing. While feeling this rod, have someone start the engine, and note whether the linkage rod moves - it should. Upon stopping the engine, the linkage rod should move back after a few seconds. If the linkage rod does not operate as described, get a vacuum tester (any auto parts store) and apply vacuum to the VNT diaphragm to see if you can get it to move. If it's seized up, there's your problem. NOTE: To prevent this from happening, DON'T BABY THE VEHICLE when you are driving it, and consider recalibrating the EGR system to reduce the amount of soot build-up in the exhaust.

 

- Turbo wastegate mechanism sticking. This only applies for those with a GT15 or K03 turbo. If you have a later model, you have a VNT mechanism rather than a wastegate, so see above. The wastegate opens under pressure rather than vacuum. Using a pressure gauge which reads to 30 psi, verify that when you floor it at 2500 rpm, the turbo boost pressure rises to a peak and then drops to about 0.8 - 0.9 bar (12 - 14 psi). Sometimes the wastegate diaphragm gets clogged up with oil from the crankcase ventilation system, and some owners have had success by replacing the red and blue hoses with new clean hoses and cleaning gunk out of the diaphragm housing as best as possible. You're on your own for doing this procedure. To prevent it from ever happening, arrange for the crankcase fumes to not get into the engine air intake ...

 

- Turbo boost control solenoid valve problems - this is also known as the N75 valve. If you have VAG-COM, and a trouble code of "intake manifold pressure control" is being set, and the problem is NOT a sticky VNT mechanism (see above), the N75 valve may be sticking, clogged with debris, or faulty. It can be removed from the vehicle and the paths through the valve checked by blowing through the various connections with the valve first de-energized, and then energized with 12 volts. Alternatively, obtain a vacuum gauge and "T" it into the hose that goes from the N75 valve to the VNT vacuum diaphragm, and confirm that the vacuum varies under different load conditions while driving. If found to be faulty, some have had success by blowing solvent through the valve to remove any deposits, but replacement with a new one may be the best option.

 

Mike

[dave_m]

Thats what dealers do change parts and hope thats what was causing the problem, now surely they must see the same faults time and time again and be smart enough to remember what actually caused the problem the last time they saw this fault, but then again if they worked like that they wouldn't make as much money, let us know how you get on changing the part and if it cures the problem. :D

[GSMGuy]

Righty... Valve picked up this morning - was a factory order, so I finished work early and sped home in my van to fit it!!!

 

This is what it looks like...

 

http://img317.imageshack.us/img317/3593/dsc006047ru.jpg

 

It has 3 pipe connectors, labelled VAC, OUT and ATM, which I presume are a supply of vacuum (VAC) a vacuum output to the actuator on the turbo to control the vanes (OUT) and an input for fresh air when no vacuum is required (ATM) which is connected to what looks like a mini fuel filter just behind the airbox, but is in fact a mini air filter...

 

To fit it, you have to remove this plate, which is directly behind the engine, after removing the plastic cover..

 

http://img317.imageshack.us/img317/9868/dsc006023mm.jpg

 

Here it is in situ, it's the one on the left (drivers side) in this pic

 

http://img317.imageshack.us/img317/5281/dsc006014kk.jpg

 

Close up...

 

http://img317.imageshack.us/img317/1844/dsc006003sf.jpg

[GSMGuy]

Righty... Valve picked up this morning - was a factory order, so I finished work early and sped home in my van to fit it!!!

 

This is what it looks like...

 

http://img317.imageshack.us/img317/3593/dsc006047ru.jpg

 

It has 3 pipe connectors, labelled VAC, OUT and ATM, which I presume are a supply of vacuum (VAC) a vacuum output to the actuator on the turbo to control the vanes (OUT) and an input for fresh air when no vacuum is required (ATM) which is connected to what looks like a mini fuel filter just behind the airbox, but is in fact a mini air filter...

 

To fit it, you have to remove this plate, which is directly behind the engine, after removing the plastic cover..

 

http://img317.imageshack.us/img317/9868/dsc006023mm.jpg

 

Here it is in situ, it's the one on the left (drivers side) in this pic

 

http://img317.imageshack.us/img317/1844/dsc006003sf.jpg

 

Close up...

 

http://img317.imageshack.us/img317/5281/dsc006014kk.jpg

 

It's secured with 2 10mm nuts - just loosen the left one (hidden) and remove the right one, which you can get your fingers too - then it will just slide to the right and off it's rubber isolated mounts (presumably so you don't hear it clicking)

 

Anyway, it took me 15 mins or so to swap it - plugged in the lappy and cleared the code before going for a blast.... The result????

 

 

Still the bloody same! :rolleyes: I am sooo glad I didn't pay ford an extra

[Guest bmsc22990]

sounds identical to mine which was accelarator pedal sensor.it only showed up as fault code twice,i cleared the code and it never showed up again but the problem was still there.i changed the pedal 1 month ago and it is perfect now.

[dave_m]

Thanks for the update, please keep me informed as to the progress and if you manage to resolve it,

 

Are your fault codes similar to mine?

P0101- MAF but this was probably stored when i was playing with the MAF

P1556-Charge Pressure Contr. Negative Deviation

P1549-Boost Pressure Contr.Valve Short to Ground

 

do you think it could be anything to do with the accelerator position sensor as a few have mentioned???

[GSMGuy]

Right an Update - A known faulty MAF arrived in the post for me today - many thanks Seatalhambra!!!

 

Anyway, swapped it and the car is now gutless, and still has the boost cutting out at 300 rpm in top.. So I thinks the MAF is ruled out as ok..

 

All things really seem to be pointing to the T-MAP sensor.....

 

Also I am gonna post this in the 3 similar threads that are going at the moment, as it's getting hard to keep up!! Can a mod possibly combine the threads??

 

http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.ph...=15entry40532

 

http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.ph...&hl=boost&st=15

 

http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.ph...topic=5735&st=0

 

All the above threads seem to be about the same problem..

 

Mike

[golfmadman]

I have been monitoring my instances of No go over the last few weeks and my loss of power only ever appears to coincide when the car has been switched off for a short period, up to 15 mins after a decent run, it does not happen on shorter journeys, or so the wife says :D . When re-starting after this short stop the problem is there of a non-existent turbo. When you switch off and restart after a longer period of time, a couple of hours say, there is no problem. The only thing i have not done is to switch off the engine once the problem is there and see if it re-sets at that point. Why would this be?

[seatkid]

I have been monitoring my instances of No go over the last few weeks and my loss of power only ever appears to coincide when the car has been switched off for a short period, up to 15 mins after a decent run, it does not happen on shorter journeys, or so the wife says :D . When re-starting after this short stop the problem is there of a non-existent turbo. When you switch off and restart after a longer period of time, a couple of hours say, there is no problem. The only thing i have not done is to switch off the engine once the problem is there and see if it re-sets at that point. Why would this be?

Have you checked out the vacuum pipes to the turbo and bosst control solenoid. look at the end of this thread...