Wheel Wobble Still

[Mauser]

Hi guys,

After having a new tyre fitted and the tracking checked I am still getting real bad steering wheel wobble/vibration when braking from above 50mph, seems OK or not noticable below this speed. Noticed the front pads were low on material but not changed them yet. Question is would low material cause the bad wobble on the steering wheel or is it something worse like warped disks etc ?.

Cannot afford to change them on the chance it will fix the problem so any advice would be appreciated. If its needs new disks + pads then I will get them but don't want to spend

[seatkid]

If only when braking then warped or contaminated discs.

If it wobbles while driving normally its one or both front tyres balancing.

[Topbloke]

as you mention in your post it (wheel wobble) happens under braking, the easy way to check this would run the vehicle around to your friendly mot station explain the problem to the tester (not the office wally ) and ask him if he would mind putting the car on the brake tester, this should show any fluctuation under light braking , i am sure that he would like to help especialy if you wave a fiver under his nose, if its not the brakes it could be an track rod end or a ball joint but my money would be disc's

[Mauser]

Hi Guys,

Car has just been through MOT and brakes passed fine ?, track rod end on near side was also replaced after MOT under advice and as in other post wheels have been ballanced and tracked but still the wobble persists, it does seem worse when braking in straight lines if I am turning and braking then it seems less noticable. Does feel like brakes are going going on and off fast and causing the wheels to snatch from side to side ?. I think if I brake hard I don't get the wobble but to be honest I am not a hard braker :).

Any further thoughts appreciated.

Simon :)

PS Suppose I could change the pads as they are a bit on the low side :lol:.

[chromedome]

Definately sounds like warped discs, very common on the Galaxy I'm afraid.

[Guest marcusheawood]

Hello,

 

It's warped disks. :)

 

Has anyone ever had a shalaxy which didn't warp the disks? :)

 

Mine did, I think it happens when the pads get low. I'm gonna change mine when they're half worn, 'cos i'm fed up replacing disks with every pad change.

 

I also don't use the silly retaining bolt on each disk, it's only there to make life easier for the fitter. The wheel bolts should be all that holds the disk in place, and they must be tightened evenly. I use three stages to torque 'em up and I tighten them in a alternating star pattern to ensure even clamping.

 

Never use cheap unbranded disks or pads, also don't use high friction performance pads. They generate even more disk warping heat!

 

The track rod end will have been knocked out by the rapid oscillations produced by braking with warped disks, this has also happened to me, and it was the N/S/F as well.

 

I think this problem can also lead to premature CV joint wear...check yours.

 

I got a complete new driveshaft on ebay for

[Masked Marauder]

The easiest way to check for warped disks is to lock the steering, jack the car up, take the wheel off and put a pencil resting on blocks of similar, just touching the disk. Carefully turn the disk by the drive shaft and watch to see if the pencil moves or a gap opens.

[Mauser]

Thanks guys,

I guess I was hoping for better news :lol:, will price up a new set of disks + pads over the next few weeks and wait till pay day comes around :).

Anything nasty to look out for when changing disks / pads ?.

Simon

[chromedome]

Make sure that when you push the caliper pistons back you push the excess fluid out of the bleed nipple. Don't force the fluid back through the system or you can screw up the ABS with contaminated fluid. :)

 

You'll also need a piston retraction tool as the pistons rotate inwards, not a straight push back in operation. This has been covered many times.

[sad_git]

"You'll also need a piston retraction tool as the pistons rotate inwards, not a straight push back in operation. This has been covered many times."

 

Aren't we working on the front brakes? This applies only to rears!

[chromedome]

Sorry, didn't know that. I thought it applied to all.

[Mauser]

Hi guys,

Had the drivers wheel off this afternoon and with a digital clock checked the run- out on the disks, it was cock on not much more than 0.05mm out and I would image the other side would be the same ?. Looking at the rim on the outside of the disk there was about 2mm of wear on the face, is that still within limits, there seems very little wear and the faces were very good condition. The pads are low showing about 2-3 mm of material left, would this possibly cause the wobble I am getting ?. If its not the pads or the disks then what else could it be please ?.

I will change the pads but will be baffled if the woblle continues afterwards.

Cheers Simon

[GSMGuy]

If the discs are as you say, it could be a buckled wheel, or a damaged tyre, or wheel balance prob.

 

Try swapping rear to front and see if it either goes away or changes, at least it will rule out pads/discs..

 

Mike

[seatkid]

Change the pads and clean up the caliper.

[Mauser]

I will probably get shouted out but I brought some new pads from Motormania :),

[Mauser]

Well since my first post about wobble the fault has gone, tried a brake from a controlled test circuit 90MPH :), and all seems fine now ?.

Maybe my steady driving and light braking has settled the disks to the pads ?, but anyways as long as it don't shake me to bits I'm happy.

Cheers Simon

[mikeohope]

It is v important to make sure front wheels are balanced both on the inner and outer rims. Had wobble problem with mine after new front tyres but was resolved when a proper tyre fitter (not a kwik fit monkey) balanced them up.

 

He told me on the bigger MPV's it is critical that they are balanced on both sides, at least on thre front anyway.

[Mauser]

All is still well on the vibration its gone completly, have had a couple of new tyres since this topic started but not made things bad again.