Jump to content
Ford Galaxy Owners Club

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi,

 

we have three year old 1.9 TDi galaxy that we've had aircon problems with (like everyone else I hear you shout!)

 

Difference here is it was fixed by a rather simple solution before by a Ford garage, but its gone wrong again - and I want to know if this is something I can do myself?

 

The air-con doesn't engage at all, if you switch it between Econ or Auto - the air never gets any cooler.

 

Apparently, what Ford said last time was that the two metal plates (electro-magnetic drive) for the compressor had become dirty/rusty and so when the air con was switched on - the plates wouldn't engage magnetically. They just cleaned the inside surfaces with a bit if wet and dry and hey presto - it all started working again.

 

Can anyone tell me if I can do this myself? and where to look to do it?

 

cheers

 

Graham

Posted

How long since the last repair? The work should be under guarantee for at least 12 months. I know SEAT give 2 years on parts following repair. Even if Gal is over 3 years old, kick up fuss with dealer in a nice way. They may meet some of the repair costs, if not all.

It could be that you have lost your AC gas. System won't engage if low.

:)

Posted
...

Apparently, what Ford said last time was that the two metal plates (electro-magnetic drive) for the compressor had become dirty/rusty and so when the air con was switched on - the plates wouldn't engage magnetically. They just cleaned the inside surfaces with a bit if wet and dry and hey presto - it all started working again.

 

Can anyone tell me if I can do this myself? and where to look to do it?

 

cheers

 

Graham

Magnetic coupling...connects ribbed belt to the compressor...

if it was/is rusty or dirty then not 'coupling'

- required to be coupled to drive compressor except for 8 sec delay when cranking the starter, when you're flat out and require a little more from the engine

 

and for use by both but only both of Dave-G's sisters's for kick-down B)

 

Can anyone tell me if I can do this myself?

SEAT manual says not as requires removal of refrigerant and at least 6 VW tools plus a puller to get the belt pulley off.

 

They just cleaned the inside surfaces with a bit if wet and dry
- this must have started to rust again.

 

Hope this helps,

Jeff.

Posted

thanks Jeff - that reply was useful!

 

I guess I got the impression it was quite a simple fix for did - removal of gas etc seems a bit more complicated.

 

Where is the compressor located - I might have a look see if I can't get at the plates some other way...

 

Graham

Posted

Hi Graham,

 

Where is the compressor located - I might have a look see if I can't get at the plates some other way...

 

A/c compressor on mine is behind the coolant radiator fan and underneath the alternator. My a/c is manual not Climatronic but I think it's in a similar position.

 

Magnetic coupling belt pulley is on LHS from driver aspect.

 

I can't see how you're going to access the contacts - there should be a clearance, when off, of 0.4mm-0.8mm between outer circumference of the magnetic coupling and the inner circumference of the m.c. belt pulley. The magnetic coupling must expand outwards in a circle to contact the inside of the pulley.

 

As the compressor is mounted horizontally you would need to approach the gap from the right while in situ. There's only limited clearance from the RHS also to access it.

 

Sorry mate - I can't see you doing it but I wish you ATB.

 

By the way, the clearance could be out also on yours (must be 0.4-0.8mm over entire circumference) which would affect engagement. Clearance can be checked with compressor installed but adjustment by dismantling and adding shims only.

 

ATB, Jeff.

Posted

While were on AC, mine's been a bit musty when first switched on.

No problems with performance etc. So no leaks. I've heard about bacteria build-up etc.

Can you get a spray or will changing the pollen filter suffice.

Posted

Widget,

It sounds like a problem I had, mine was the coil gone open and not engaging the clutch on the AC compressor.

 

I obtained a coil and fitted it myself on the drive, you do not need to degass to get the clutch and coil off.

 

You will need to remove the Aux belt and undo the lower turbo pipe, then with a fashioned locking bar, to stop the pulley rotating, remove the nut holding the compressor clutch and you can then remove the clutch plate and pulley etc...

 

I might have missed a circlip or 2 but you get the idea, if you have a TIS disk then its on there as well.....

 

http://www.sanden.com/support/servicemanual/english/clutch.gif

 

Hope this helps

 

M@

  • 4 weeks later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...