It Won't Start!

[Guest Idris]

hopefully final update on this issue, just in case anyone else has a similar problem to me and does a search :D

 

Two weeks after getting the car back, all appears to be solved (hope I am not tempting fate here!). The final solution was to replace the switch that they determined was the problem via a broadcast - no new PCM was required (or at least, they didnt charge me for it).

 

Anyway, just for info should anyone else have an immobiliser nightmare!

[GSMGuy]

Just as an aside....

 

Surely the stealers should keep items such as PCM and other ECU's available to "try" when diagnosing a fault - rather than just replacing and charging for them?

 

With the probs I have had with my autobox, the place that fitted the new box "borrowed" a Jatco ECU from somewhere, and fitted it to my car - PRIOR to changing the gearbox, just to confirm that it wasn't an ECU fault, saved them the possibility of swapping the gearbox (again) in error...

 

 

Just a thought..

 

Mike

[GT40Graham]

Which switch did they eventually replace?

[Guest mjp753]

Car now fully dried out and had been starting fine, until tonight when wouldn't start again. Engine was warm (90mins last run)

Door light flashing double. Dropping fuel relay and replacing not doing the trick.

 

Does anyone know which 'switch' Idris was talking about? Thanks.

[Masked Marauder]

Car now fully dried out and had been starting fine, until tonight when wouldn't start again. Engine was warm (90mins last run)

Door light flashing double. Dropping fuel relay and replacing not doing the trick.

 

Does anyone know which 'switch' Idris was talking about? Thanks.

Do you know when in 96 your vehicle was built?

[Guest mjp753]

Hi Masked Marauder, Yes, I have a recall print out from Fords which shows the cars build date as 11/12/95???

[Masked Marauder]

You need to find out if they have done this:

TSB96101.pdf

[Guest mjp753]

Thanks for the info Masked Marauder.

 

No record of PATS module and transponder being replaced in my paperwork, but

 

despite my build date shown as 11/05, my VIN no. starts WFOG.......... which I assume is after build code SK to TR which they refer to?

 

As is the way, after a damp night outside in the rain it started first thing this morning!!! Umm!

I think I might consider getting a mobile diagnostic van with the Ford software out to see what codes are reported. Anyone got the software in the Norwich area?

[Guest jakoboliver]

If its the imobiliser, the car will normally start and cut out after 2 sec.

 

Hello All,

 

I have had a 2003 Galaxy tdi for 3 months.(Its a great car couldn't be happier with it untill now) The remote central locking has never worked very well so I have just used the key. Now my Galaxy starts then cuts out after approx 2 seconds.

 

What can I do?

 

Do I need to tow it to a dealer?

[littledaz]

This is most probably a fault with your reader coil. This is a sensor fitted around your ignition barrel that reads the immobiliser transponder in your key. It is known that these can sometimes have a bad connection. Try tapping, quite firmly, the steering shrouds around the ignition barrel to see if it starts. Failing that you may have to remove the steering column shrouds to get to the connector. Wiggle the wire, it should start.

[NikpV]

Try tapping, quite fimly, the steering shrouds around the ignition barrel to see if it starts.

 

do I detect highly trained VW master-mechanic speak for 'smack it one'

 

:( :)

[littledaz]

Nah! You do that when it still doesn't start. :lol:

[NikpV]

Nah! You do that when it still doesn't start. :D

 

 

ah stage two VW is more sophisticated than ford they only have one level

 

 

:lol: :lol: :lol:

 

no offense to any mechanics intended

[ridway]

I watching carefully. I've had this problem for almost a year now. Turn on the key and the car wont start sometimes. The little door light flashes at a rapid rate.

 

If I keep trying the LED eventually stays on and the car will start. It is not the keys because both my wifes and mine do the same. I have tried in vane to pin it down to certain events. It will work for weeks with no problems and then be a pain for several starts, but will always eventually go after trying a couple or several times. The only hint of a cause is a big change in temperature but thats not conclusive. A supporting hint of this is that the problem occurs after a long drive when you come back to restart after a short stop the problem sometimes happens.

 

I've mentioned this problem before on these forums but it seems the problem is pretty rare.

The biggest inconvienience is when it wont go after you fill up, especially when the garage is busy. Ive had to be pushed of the pump on more than one occassion.

 

Rich

[ridway]

I'm now convinced the problem is the key reader head in the steering column. I have now established that if I hold and stress the key in a certain position when inserting it appears to help.

 

My sypmtoms are no response when trying to start. Will always work eventually; sometimes after the next go somtimes 10 minutes later after 30 or 40 tries. Pain in the bum. The LED always flashers when it broke and stays on when its OK. It never starts and cuts out after a second or so. I refuse to let dealers rip me off until I'm totally stuck.

 

Does anyone no if I can change the barrel read head without affecting the stored data on the 2 keys we use?

 

Rich

[crimbo]

can i get you to check something ..

 

when you turn the key in the ignition , before it fires up .. do you hear the sound of a click from the relay(s) ?

 

If does not start , can you check to see if there is the click ..

 

R30 isnt the only relay which can cause this, supply and aux also produce this ..

 

gently tap the supply relay if no sound .. and see if it helps..

 

Although a year on you prob tried everything :lol:

[big_kev]

When asked "can we have our old Powertrain Control Module back they repied "no its a sevice exchange part"

 

The reason they do not return service exchange parts is because if you swap it with the new one you will find there is no difference and they have ripped you off.

 

Does not just apply to PCM's but most other parts as well.

[semitac]

On Saturday morning I piled the wife and kids into the Galaxy. Tried starting and the engine just turned and turned (didn't fire at all). Thought it might be an immobiliser problem so I got out, locked the car, unlocked the car, got back in and tried again. After a fair amount turning it eventually started.

 

Sunday morning, the car started no problem. We went out and, when we came back to the car 2 hours later, the same problem. My trick from Saturday didn't work so we eventually called the AA.

 

The "very nice man" tried starting the car and it didn't work still (which I was glad of - I didn't fancy looking like an idiot!) but when he was about to test for power from the coil, the car decided to start! He advised me that the problem is likely to be a sticking relay and that it is definitely nothing to do with the immobiliser. Has anybody else had this sort of problem? and what have you done to fix it?

[semitac]

I have had a similar problem.

 

Initialliy by coming out of vehicle and then open and closing door gets it started.

 

The problem now is when I put key in ignition, engine will not turn at all. Someone said that the programing is messed up and needs reprogramming. However, on reading all the key fob threads, programming is necessary if you cannot get into vehicle. The central locking is working fine.

 

If I use the spare keys, not key fob type, the vehicle starts without a problem.

 

 

Looking at the key, slight wear on teeth, but is OK when viewed under microscope.

 

Have you resolved your problems. Please advise what further steps you took. The Galaxy is a 2001 Y Reg 2.3i Ghia model.

 

thanks

 

Jay

[seatkid]

The problem is with the wiring loom where it goes into the door. Wires connect the door lock switch and immobiliser led. Check for open circuits, the wire break inside the (usually degraded) insulation.

[manddave]

Hi

i have this same problem on our 99 petrol 2.3 ghia x

i changed 2 relays thanks to this site but still have the fault

 

when i turn on the ignition the door light flashes like mad and it wont start

sometimes it does start but more often just turns over and beeps

 

i have 3 keys and tried them all same thing

 

can anyone help please

[BUSMAN ED]

I EVERYONE. I HAVE JUST JOINED YOU GUYS AND GALS AS I HAVE 1997 FORD GALAXY 2.0, MANUAL. I HAVE HAD IT FOR JUST OVER THREE MONTHS NOW AND IT HAS BEEN 100% RELIABLE......UP UNTIL LAST WEEK.....WHEN I CLIMBED IN TURNED THE KEY .......... NOTHING..WOULD NOT EVEN TURN OVER. I CALLED THE RAC..THE GUY TESTED THE BATTERY ( OKAY ) TESTED THE SOLENOID ON THE STARTER MOTOR ( OKAY ) 12 VOLTS GOING IN BUT THE STARTER WOULD NOT ENGAGE..SO I CHANGED THE STARTER MOTOR

[mumof4]

WElcome busman.For one caps is considered shouting and can make it hard to read. :wacko:

 

When you put the key in, does the Led on the door flash?if so, does it flash in a pattern.I.E..how many flashes?quick,slow?..Can you hear any clicking coming from the fuse box/relays?

[NikpV]

do youhave a second key - if so try that

[English Rose]

Hi All

 

New member here..... I have a 2005 (55 reg) Ford Galaxy 2.0 Ghia Tdi. The last few weeks ive been having problems with it starting, I get in the car it starts ok then after leaving it for about 15 mins i can get back in it and it just turns over and makes no effort to start. I have had it back to the garage and they keep telling me its the fuel relay thats faulty cos it has been moving in the housing..... in the end the garage have tied a cable tie round the relay and the fuse box. It seemed to work until today when i found myself stranded in the middle of town with a car that wouldnt start. This has happened to me on numerous occasions and our local Ford dealer says that they honestly dont know whats wrong with it.

I dont think its the immobiliser as the light does not flash on the dashboard. I have spoken to somebody who said they had the same problem and they were also diagnosed with the fuel relay fault only theirs turned out to be a fault in the Brain.

 

Does anybody have any ideas what this problem is?