MatTdi Posted March 28, 2005 Report Posted March 28, 2005 Hi Guys and Gals,I'm after some help my Alhambra has started to overheat, but only at speed!!I have read the forum threads and can't work out if its the thermostat or pump thats stuffed.... It only happens at speed, the bottom hose is cold past the bend, it will blow warm air after a while, the fans are running and for all you other Alhambra owners :D the oil temp is at 120c instead of 90c..... If its the pump any idea on time taken for the job or costs?? Thanks in advance M@ - Driving slowly :D Quote
seatkid Posted March 28, 2005 Report Posted March 28, 2005 Surely its under warranty so..... :D otherwise change the thermostat first, then if that doesnt fix it the pump.....(the thermostat should be changed anyway if you change the pump....) Quote
Topbloke Posted March 29, 2005 Report Posted March 29, 2005 i have had experience of the impeller breaking up on the golfs water pump (which is a known problem) i dont know if this is the same pump as used in the seats,that said i would change the thermostat first :D Quote
MatTdi Posted March 29, 2005 Author Report Posted March 29, 2005 Thanks for the sanity check, I'll send the mrs out to get the thermostat today...Do I need to drain the coolant to change the thermostat?? I guess I do for the pump!! As for the warranty the old girl has done 90k now so its a bit far out :-( Thanks again M@ Quote
Masked Marauder Posted March 29, 2005 Report Posted March 29, 2005 No need to drain, the stat is in the plastic pipe at the top of the back of the engine, you will only lose a cupfull at the most. Quote
MatTdi Posted March 29, 2005 Author Report Posted March 29, 2005 Thanks MM!! I'm real confused now as my disc and you PDF shows the front of the PD engine for the location of the stat.... Is it front or back? Maybe this is why the dealears manage to go so wrong as the TIS info is worng?? M@ Quote
Masked Marauder Posted March 29, 2005 Report Posted March 29, 2005 It may well be on the front actually, I presumed the round thing in the picture was the brake servo. Now I have looked again, I doubt it is. It is on the front at the bottom behind the Air-Con compressor on earlier non-PD diesels. Quote
Masked Marauder Posted March 29, 2005 Report Posted March 29, 2005 It looks like it is on the front at the bottom, behind the alternator. If so you will have to drain the coolant for sure. Quote
MatTdi Posted March 29, 2005 Author Report Posted March 29, 2005 :D Bu66er.... will have to wait till the weekend then!! Is there a danger of breaking something big time?? if it driven for short trips like this?? Thanks in advance M@ Quote
Danny Boy Posted March 29, 2005 Report Posted March 29, 2005 MatTDi I've got the same problem with mine, biiked it into Seat to have alook at next week, let me know how you get on please. See if I can sort the problem out myself if you have anu joy! Cheers. p.s Good luck with it!! :o Quote
MatTdi Posted March 30, 2005 Author Report Posted March 30, 2005 Danny Boy,I will let you know how it goes...I am gonna drain and change the stat on Sat Am. The stat is Quote
Danny Boy Posted March 30, 2005 Report Posted March 30, 2005 MatTDi If it turned out to be the stat and pump etc would it be necessary to change the belt and tensioners, i've just had it done at the garage? Cheers Quote
MatTdi Posted March 30, 2005 Author Report Posted March 30, 2005 Not that I am aware of... I got the prices for the belt etc as I was going to get them changed if the current one is not new, the garage I bought it from 12mnths ago changed it before I bought it..... not that I dont trust second hand car salesmen :lol: M@ Quote
Masked Marauder Posted March 30, 2005 Report Posted March 30, 2005 MatTDi If it turned out to be the stat and pump etc would it be necessary to change the belt and tensioners, i've just had it done at the garage? Cheers Absolutely not, the pump is driven by the auxiliary belt. You would need to remove the timing belt to do the job but the old one can go back on. It may be financially prudent to change the belt and tensioner whilst they are off though if you are near a belt change interval. Quote
MatTdi Posted April 4, 2005 Author Report Posted April 4, 2005 I managed to change the stat on Sat Am, its pretty easy and if your quick you will only loose about 1 litre of coolant, better than the 10 I was expecting..... I followed the TIS instructions on refilling and bleeding the system, I hope I have no air locks now as all the coolant went back in!! Took her for a run and still the bottom hose is cold :lol: so I guess its the pump. Will be booking in at local garage today to have it done this week hopefully. Thanks again M@ Quote
GSMGuy Posted April 4, 2005 Report Posted April 4, 2005 MatTDi If it turned out to be the stat and pump etc would it be necessary to change the belt and tensioners, i've just had it done at the garage? Cheers Absolutely not, the pump is driven by the auxiliary belt. You would need to remove the timing belt to do the job but the old one can go back on. It may be financially prudent to change the belt and tensioner whilst they are off though if you are near a belt change interval. Even if you have had the belt done recently, I woulsd ALWAYS replace it if it has to be removed, even a little oil contamination from dirty hands can cause problems later on... For the cost of the belt... Better safe tahn sorry!! Mike Quote
MatTdi Posted April 7, 2005 Author Report Posted April 7, 2005 Hmm first garage says it has hydrocarbons in the coolant so the gasket has gone!!! so why is there no pressure in the system??? will be paying the diag fee and running away, will try and find a proper garage M@ Quote
Danny Boy Posted April 8, 2005 Report Posted April 8, 2005 Sounds a load of cobblers, if you ask me!! Good luck with it, I'm still having no joy finding anything out to be honest. Will keep you updated if I find anything out. I had a diag check done and nothing come of except "Boost Pressure Limit Exceeded" but this was a problem with the turbo cutting out, but touch wood since this error was cleared the turbo's been fine. Do reason for the oil temp to increase as it has been! Quote
seatkid Posted April 8, 2005 Report Posted April 8, 2005 Took her for a run and still the bottom hose is cold :angry: so I guess its the pump. Why would you expect the bottom hose to be hot? Diesels are that efficient and the radiator that big, that my bottom hose is almost always cold (the stat is virtually closed). If you have good constant output (hot) from the heaters (particularly the rear) it indicates the circulation is fine. The only sure way to get the bottom hose hot is to leave her idling, turn down heaters to zero and put on lots of electrics (but not aircon as this kicks in the cooling fan automatically). Check to see if the water radiator starts to get hot (from top, working down - beware! watch out for the fan starting and your fingers!!.IMO The proper thing to watch is the oil temperature. If the heater output (on a good run) is only luke warm or less or fluctuates, it'll be the pump. Leaks in the head would be obvious as you'll get a large increase in water temperature and much loss of coolant through over pressure.... Quote
Masked Marauder Posted April 8, 2005 Report Posted April 8, 2005 Hmm first garage says it has hydrocarbons in the coolant so the gasket has gone!!! so why is there no pressure in the system??? will be paying the diag fee and running away, will try and find a proper garage M@ The hydrocarbons are a sign that the gasket has breached between a cylinder and the coolant waterways. This would be why the temperature soars under load. Get a second opinion by all means, but if they have really done a hydrocarbon test then the likelyhood is the head must come off. Quote
Ivor_E_Tower Posted April 8, 2005 Report Posted April 8, 2005 Hmm first garage says it has hydrocarbons in the coolant so the gasket has gone!!! so why is there no pressure in the system??? ...because the coolant "system" now includes the cylinders because of the breach in the head gasket. Quote
Danny Boy Posted April 10, 2005 Report Posted April 10, 2005 Leaks in the head would be obvious as you'll get a large increase in water temperature and much loss of coolant through over pressure.... If thats the case it cant be down to the head then. The coolant has not had to be topped up since it was serviced 8k miles ago??? U suggest the coolant temp would increase, it does but only cause the oil temp increases to 120 degrees taking the coolant up to 110? B) B) :blink: :blink: Quote
seatkid Posted April 10, 2005 Report Posted April 10, 2005 Danny Boy's problem seems to be dragging on a bit..... Danny boy, 3 things to check - did they put the correct oil in? The TIS mentions there are thermostatic flaps that shut the air flow through the radiator when cold. I'm not sure these exist but if they do, then check they are open... Does the electric cooling fan work? Quote
Masked Marauder Posted April 10, 2005 Report Posted April 10, 2005 You may not loose coolant, the pressure of the engine firing may be enough to breach the gasket, but the pressure of the coolant may not be enough. Sounds weird but it happens. As for pressure in the coolant, the cap will let out excess pressure. Quote
Danny Boy Posted April 10, 2005 Report Posted April 10, 2005 Danny Boy's problem seems to be dragging on a bit..... Sorry I know its dragging on but wife due to give birth to new baby over the next couple of weeks so its not been wise to leave car with a Garage to look over! B) :( (yes another one to the brood) B) :blink: As for checks Yes correct oil was used, have checked this with garage. :blink: Where are the flaps and i'll have a look (Mt TIS only shows MK1 models) B) Electric fan does work! :) I only re-raised my issues as MatTdi was detailing the same problem as me! :) Quote
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