OIL TYPE USED - TDI ONLY

[Railman]

I use Mobil1 its a bit pricey but I wait for Halfords to do a promotion on oil, and it is often 25% off all types, so I get 2 x 4ltr at the same time. Do all the maintenance myself.

[Ivor_E_Tower]

Does Mobil 1 meet 505.01? Last time I checked, it didn't say so on the bottle.

[tim-spam]

The Castrol TXT 505.01 is a fully synthetic oil (as is the genuine VAG stuff). I am told that the Millers is semi-synthetic - perhaps the Ford stuff is as well? That would explain the price difference.

Tim

[Brinkman]

Morris Lubricants XHD FE 10w/40.Semi Synthetic.

[Railman]

I started using Mobil 1 because when I first got the Galaxy I could not find the VW500 refrence on the filler cap on any oil except Mobil 1. After that I just stuck with it but it is the only 0/40W I have seen.

[Guest FlyingDutchMan]

Quantum PD is the oil for me; i used to use the filly synth Castrol and i could hear the valves ticking when idling as the oil is a bit too thin. Moved to Quantum PD and hasta la vista, ticking gone. Also, it is cheaper than the oil my dealer uses. And it stops them overfilling as it takes only 4.5 litres to fill and the mechanic knows he has to leave some in the can when he returns it.

 

FDM

[Guest pmarti22]

I use Ford Formula SD.

[MatTdi]

Millers XFE PD

 

 

M@

[deadpool2e]

what is the differance between all these oils?? BTW my local stealer said in my full service if i pay

[seatkid]

Which, I believe, is totally unsuitable for your car... :P

 

Maybe for

[deadpool2e]

lol @ seatkid

[Rosie]

Hi

 

I have a Gal TDi 110 '99' (xs) and do my own servicing.I use Halfords Oil for Turbo diesels, 10w-40 part synthetic.Works wonders.80,000 miles plus and purring like a Lion.

 

Rosie :huh:

[Rosie]

Hi

 

Can someone explain to a novice like myself what PD engine is please !

 

Rosie :huh:

[seatkid]

PD = pumpe deuse VAG german techno speak for unit injector technology.

 

AFAIK all Shalaxy diesels built after aug 2000 (i.e. MKII) are PD engines - available in 115,130 and now 150 bhp variants. (All those built before are old Tdi technology)

 

PD engines require a very special engine oil......

[Guest marcusheawood]

...My god! You oilburners are oil perverts as well!

 

As one of the few remaining petrolheads amongst us I buy whatever is on offer at my local factors. Regular oil and filter changes are much more important than oil spotters writhing anorak frottage.

 

This does NOT constitute advice for diseasals or 1.8T, normal normally aspirated petrol engines only. :D

 

AND NO BLUDDY ADDITIVES, EVER!! (Slick50 etc.) THEY ARE DANGEROUSLY BAD FOR YOUR ENGINE. :D

[Guest marcusheawood]

...and I'd guess that PD oil is another manufacturer gravy train, It's prolly just a high spec racing synthetic based oil adapted for diesel use (very high film strength and scuff resistance plus the usual diesel additives). However you do need it, so they've got you over a barrel.

[tim-spam]

Who's over a barrel? Loads of manufacturers make oil to VW505.01 - just try a Google search. Prices vary from around

[Guest marcusheawood]

...but the oil consumption goes up!

 

5W generally gets straight past your rings and seals when the engine is cold.

 

In a VR6 Mobil 1 would be a COMPLETE waste of money. Remember that this engine is only just about producing 63 bhp per litre. Hardly an EVO IX is it!

 

Oil Spotter! :angry:

 

A little tribology goes a long way! :angry: I'm merely suggesting that with some thought it's perfectly possible to EXCEED the manufacturers MINIMUM oil specification AND save money. :angry:

[tim-spam]

Actually, oil consumption goes down if anything. A 5W40 oil means that it is a 5 weight oil at 0 degC and a 40 weight oil at 110 degC, and the relationship between temperature and viscosity is roughly linear. This means that, at normal running temperature, the viscosity of a 5W40 oil is at least as high as for a conventional oil. In addition, a synthetic oil retains its viscosity profile far, far better than a conventional mineral oil. A regular cheap 15W40 is more like a 'straight' 15 weight oil at oil change time. Oil consumption also depends upon more than just the viscosity, although having the correct viscosity is obviously a factor.

Using a good quality synthetic oil is probably a good investment, and the (slight) improvement in fuel consumption may offset, or even exceed, the increased price of the oil. In addition, engine wear will be reduced - this is established fact.

By the way, 63 bhp/litre is a fairly high specific power output when compared with older engines for which more basic oils were originally designed. However, the choice is yours.

[Guest marcusheawood]

Mate; please....

 

I'm talking about when your engines COLD, do you live in Scandinavia, Iceland?

 

Then you need thin oil...

 

WTF are you on about? I wasn't suggesting using cheap re-cycled crap, your precious 'synthetic' oil is still just a mineral oil like any other; it just stays in grade longer.

 

For DIESELS this is important due to the film loads from much higher compression pressures, and VERY IMPORTANT for any Turbo engine (higher mean temperatures plus VERY high speeds).

 

However I'm talking about the NATURALLY ASPIRATED VR6 PETROL engine, mine's done 96K, and I use any new semi-synthetic with at least 15W because I don't want it going past the rings and seals in the summer (usually about

[ninjakev]

I'm worried now - just had major 30,000 mile service for fixed price of

[tim-spam]

[i'm trying to give good advice here, and you're just trying to score stupid tech points.]

 

Rubbish! You may be trying to give good advice, but that does not make you right! Synthetic oil is not 'just a mineral oil', but is synthetically produced (that's why it's referred to as 'synthetic'). In Germany, where all of these engines were designed and developed, the vast majority of cars use synthetic oil. Read your owners handbook (produced by the engine manufacturers). One of the benefits of synthetic oils is that oil consumption is reduced (unless of course it's very low to start with, in which case it will just stay that way) - FACT.

However, I do agree that regular oil and filter changes are important, but every 2.5 - 3k????? Good advice????? What do others on this forum think?

By the way, I change the oil on my wife's Merc 190D every 6000 miles (according to the manufacturer's instructions), and this has done over 300,000 miles. Each oil / filter change costs around

[tim-spam]

Just one more point regarding 'saving money':

 

Oil change every 3000 miles at

[fireski]

I am still unclear as to the consequences of not using a 505.01 oil in the PD engine. Is it merely that you will get fewer mpg from your fuel; or at the other end of the spectrum that the engine will be totally ruined?

[tim-spam]

The PD engine has unit pump injectors, which are actuated by 4 extra lobes on the camshaft (it has 3 lobes per cylinder). It is due to the high pressure between these lobes and the injector actuator that the PD engine requires an oil to VW 505.01.

These oils are made by Castrol, Millers, Q8, BP, Shell, Texaco, Morris's, etc., etc.

Some are semi-synthetic (eg: Millers) and others are fully synthetic (eg: Castrol). The cheapest I've seen is