seatkid Posted January 6, 2005 Report Posted January 6, 2005 Does anyone know if this is suitable for shalaxy rear brakes? http://www.tooled-up.com/Artwork/ProdZoom/22349.jpg Quote
Guest vr6galaxy Posted January 6, 2005 Report Posted January 6, 2005 It looks like it should work? try it an see! but let us all know if you break something you shouldnt have while using it before we all rush out and buy one :huh: Quote
Guest Andy Posted January 6, 2005 Report Posted January 6, 2005 looks like a nice ye har one but as long as those nipples (OO MATRON ) locate correctly in the piston cut out then there's your answer.... :blink: :lol: :o :D Quote
Guest neil_wiles Posted January 6, 2005 Report Posted January 6, 2005 (edited) SeatKid I have used the very one on several cars and had no problems, I havent as yet used it on my Gal but sure will be and the pins are a standard size agree the the MMA group. Good Luck but remember to release the pressure and not force it back into the reservior. Edited January 6, 2005 by neil_wiles Quote
Guest Andy Posted January 7, 2005 Report Posted January 7, 2005 nipples (OO MATRON) do come in all shapes and sizes for cars i am fortunate enough to have the set below which caters for 90% of todays cars..although not as clean looking as that set,mine are well used.... :blink: :lol: :o :D http://www.sptools.co.uk/assets/userfiles/product_images/medium/03619500.jpg Quote
Masked Marauder Posted January 7, 2005 Report Posted January 7, 2005 SeatKid Good Luck but remember to release the pressure and not force it back into the reservior. Yes, best way to do that is with a brakepipe clamp on the flexable hose and open the bleed nipple. Quote
Gadgetoid Posted January 8, 2005 Report Posted January 8, 2005 And there was me thinking it was all a typo - I was about to suggest a large cork would do as a "break wind back tool" :( . Alternatively just clench :) Quote
familyman Posted January 9, 2005 Report Posted January 9, 2005 :( don't think it would suit early gals ,mine has V shaped notches in pistons not round holes to suit pins . Quote
Guest Andy Posted January 14, 2005 Report Posted January 14, 2005 the same tool does all... :( :( :rolleyes: :rolleyes: Quote
Guest GalaxyGrunt Posted January 31, 2005 Report Posted January 31, 2005 not a clue. Galaxy Grunt Quote
buford_t_justice Posted January 31, 2005 Report Posted January 31, 2005 Can anyone tell me when it became necessary to to release the bleed nipple at the caliper when changing brake pads? It's just that I've changed brake pads on my previous cars with ABS modules for over 10years now and never done this. Equally I've never had any problems either. I just release the cap of the brake servo and wind the piston in. Nor have any of my friends who change brake pads in just the same way. Quote
GSMGuy Posted January 31, 2005 Report Posted January 31, 2005 Hijacker - I used to do it the same way, until I had major problems with a Calibra Turbo about 8 years ago - Turns out it had inverted several seals in the abs pump - ended up getting a 2nd hand one.. Not cheap! Mike Quote
Guest Andy Posted January 31, 2005 Report Posted January 31, 2005 if your flexible brake hose has/is breaking down rubber fragments can cause major problems with abs pumps,valves etc in the brake line, plus the reversal(flipping) can occur of the master cylinder seals if the fluid is FORCED back withour ease.in saying that the most vunerable cars i have found to do this is vauxhalls,BUT for the sake of a customers wallet or a boll@@ing from my foreman and an extra 10-20 seconds i choose to crack the bleed nipple,less hassle in the long run... :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: Quote
Masked Marauder Posted January 31, 2005 Report Posted January 31, 2005 I too have seen several Vauxhalls with inverted master cylinder seals after pad changes. Mostly older models like Novas and MK2 Astras, but enough not to take the chance. Quote
Guest Andy Posted January 31, 2005 Report Posted January 31, 2005 mk 4 astras,mk 3 cavaliers,vectras an easy one to flip the seals,and all for the sake of cracking nipples (OO MATRON),and just gravity bleed the air out afterwards.i see plenty of cars with treacle instead of nice crisp and dry brake fluid,it really makes you think how an earth the brakes worked with fluid in that condition.... :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: Quote
buford_t_justice Posted February 1, 2005 Report Posted February 1, 2005 thanks for the info guys. :lol: Quote
neil Posted February 5, 2005 Report Posted February 5, 2005 What is the easiest way to locate check the brake fluid reservoir ? Quote
Guest vr6galaxy Posted February 5, 2005 Report Posted February 5, 2005 Removal of scuttle tray and then the top of the air box and the hose leading to the throttle body should give you enough room to get to the brake fluid reservoir, remember to plug every thing (MAF sensor) back in when you replace the air box lid and hose Quote
saintknox Posted August 16, 2006 Report Posted August 16, 2006 Does anyone know if this is suitable for shalaxy rear brakes? http://www.tooled-up.com/Artwork/ProdZoom/22349.jpgHi all very new here I'm doing my rear brakes at the mo and have come across abit of a probI'm very new to all this ABS tool stuff and have bought a draper tool like the picWorks great winding the cylinder back into the caliper but ( this probably is a daft question but hey) how do i get the bloody thing to release?It's wound really tight that i can't work out how i'm meant to undo the thing because the little nipples on the tool are still locked into the cylinder Any help at all pleeeeaaase !!! Pete Quote
Vince Posted August 16, 2006 Report Posted August 16, 2006 Sounds like your piston is wound right out hard. You may need to take the caliper off and put it in a vice to get enough torque on the piston. If you are anywhere near Reading I have a range of windback tools and air tools, if grunt is required! Vince. Quote
bigdaddy Posted August 18, 2006 Report Posted August 18, 2006 saintknox, try a pair of plumbers pliers on the big black bit and turn it, I would guess half a turn will be enough for you to unwind the rest by hand Quote
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