Clutch Change

[Guest neil_wiles]

Morning all you wonderful people (flattery works on the missus).

 

I have just experienced a little bit of a slipping clutch and now my wallet is in shock, has anyone attempted a DIY change of the clutch and if so can anyone give me a heads up on what to expect ?

 

Thanks

 

 

:D :o :o :D :o :D :D :D :D :huh: :huh:

[Ivor_E_Tower]

Are you sure it is the clutch, and not the mechanism that needs adjusting?

Try "Mr Clutch" centres around the country (yellow pages?)

IIRC, around

[Guest neil_wiles]

Ivor

 

I am going to try and check the adjustment but at 191k mile on the original clutch I am inclined to think if I need to adjust it then it may be at the end of its servicable life.

 

I would rather carry out the job by hand as then I will know the job is completed correctly.

[Guest fredt]

Its a hydraulic clutch so there's no adjusting to be done :D my friends clutch on his Alhambra has been slipping intermitantly for the last eight months! his attitude is that if it goes it goes and then it will get changed :D

[Guest Andy]

my 2.0ltr might need changing in the oncoming months :huh: looks quite easy on my motor,me wallet is creaking so it looks as though i will be doing it myself,before it tries to grind through the flywheel.

i can only say thank goodness i have access to a 2 poster ramp....

 

on another note.

 

mr clutch near me changed 2 of my dads vans clutches and left half the bolts out of the bell housing so the box chattered along the road.

the third ocasion the bell housing bolts were tight but the driveshaft nut was not tightened which was a bit dodgy because it held the wheel bearing together.

:D :huh: :D :D

[seatkid]

"Mr Clutch" has alledgedly a very bad reputation (in the states anyway). Suggest you shop around a few independent guys - those that have been recomended and around a while. Insist on original or OEM parts.

 

No adjustment cos its hydraulic...

 

DIY might be possible but really you need ramp and/or proper lifting tackle

[Guest neil_wiles]

I have access to a fully equipped workshop (in prestine condition as the moment) a mobile two post lift and as much tooling as I could shake a fist at.

 

So very soon I am going to give it a go and I will photograph the process and post it as a huge story if anyone is interested ?

[Bigjeeze]

I Would be interested - I have a 1997 TDI with 115K miles and the clutch may well need changing soon.

[Guest ajc]

I've a '97 TDi with 129K on it so I expect I'll have a similar problem soon. I'll await your photos with interest.

 

Allan

[Guest Andyjflet]

My clutch went on my old 2000 W Zetec TDI (old shape) and I booked it into an RAC recommended workshop in Thrapston Northants, I watched them fit it and they had to lower the engine, discoonect drive shafts, tray etc etc, its a huge job and lots to go wrong etc. The RAC gave me a quote at the roadside when it went, they were piloting a new scheme. It came in at Under

[Guest neil_wiles]

OK Boys here we go.

 

No piccies yet but the connection lead for the camera will be coming home from work this week and I can make a better story when it gets here, but for all those who are contemplating this "forget it"

 

The first thing that is needed in changing a clutch is patience and to be a contortionist.

 

Both drive shafts must be disconnected from the gearbox (MX75 1999 TDI) both lower suspension joints must be released allowing the shafts to be withdrawn compeltely.

 

Remove the extension shaft housing on the offside shaft from the gearbox and engine block (contortionists are cheap but not readily available).

 

Then remove battery, battery tray and all the plastic trim in the area of the water bottle.

 

Supprt the engine and gearbox assembly from above as the nearside gearbox mounting needs to be released, once released lower the assemble far enough to remove the mounting on the end of the gearbox. This is a two stage process the two large torx bolts (T50) and the two 13mm hex bolts will allow the rubber mounting and metal screw plate to be removed (this must be removed to allow enough space for the gearbox to be moved to the nearside of the vehicle).

 

Remove both the turbo intercooler rigid pipes and the coolant expansion tank. Minimal leakage as the tank is the highest point.

 

Disconnect and remove started motor, take care as the main engine earth strap is located above the starter motor, dont forget to refit !

 

Disconnect clutch rigid pipe from the slave cylinder just above the gearbox by removing the "R" clip and sliding of the rigid pipe from the slave cylinder. Plug the pipe removed to reduce fluid loss.

 

Remove both gear selector cables and remove the selector cable bracket from the gearbox.

 

disconnec the reverse light swithc and the speedo connectors from the gearbox.

 

Remove all the 15mm bolts that secure the gearbox to the engine.

 

Slide gearbox to the extreme nearside of the vehicle whilst supporting the assembly from below.

 

Great care should be atken as the flexible exhaust section will be flex beyond its normal limit during the wriggling of the engine and gearbox to separate them.

 

Once slid back the gearbox can be easily removed entirely from the vehicle and this should be done so the slave cylinder and bearing can be replaced, make sure the bleed nipple can be loosened before re-assembly.

 

Undo the ten securing bolts on the pressure plate (T8) torx bolts are a real pain and the are best replaced with new items when re-assembling the clutch.

 

remove the pressure plate and old clutch friction plate.

 

Alignment is best done through the fingers of the presssure plate and the centre boss of the friction plat as the three locating pegs ensure the pressure palte is correctly aligned at re-assembly.

 

The reverse is the correct assembly however be sure to correctly align the offside drive shaft supporting casting before reinserting the sahft or it is impossible to align once the shaft is engaged.

 

Remove the air box and pipework to gain clear access to the master cylinder to bleed the clutch once the assembly is back together.

 

Remember to fully locate all the gear selectors and brackets or neutral will be a permanent selection.

 

Its a really big job two of us took 12 hours to complete the task with a fully equipped workshop facility, however a second opportunity would obviously be quicker as we learnt such a great deal.

 

Best of luck to any who are going to attempt this DIY repair as I think I will pay the