Cv Joints

[Guest Martyn]

To change your CV joint:

 

1. Loosen road wheel nuts and the large centre (shaft) bolt.

2. Jack up the car, place an Axle stand under the chassis and remove road wheel.

3. Undo and remove the nut and bolt on the Anti roll bar where it joins the suspension strut.

4. Remove the bottom two Allen Key bolts holding the lower Ball Joint to the hub assembly and remove the long driveshaft bolt in the centre of the hub.

5. Lift the hub assembly from the ball joint and pull away from shaft. Be carefull not to let the shaft and CV joint fall out and tie it up so its roughly level. (I used some electrical cable tied onto the suspension spring).

6. DO NOT PULL THE DRIVESHAFT OUT TOO FAR AS IT WILL DROP OUT AT THE GEAR BOX END>

7. Make sure that the CV joint is straight and re-insert the long driveshaft bolt and screw it right up untill it meets the end of the shaft. Keep turning until it pops the CV joint off the end of the driveshaft.

8. Remove the Gaiter and clean up end of shaft with petrol.

9. PUT ON NEW GAITER NEXT !!

10. Grease up the end of the driveshaft and slide new Joint until it clicks into place.

11. Pack the joint with Moly Grease and wedge a load of the stuff inside the Gaiter and attach it to the CV joint.

12. The rest is a reverse of items 1 to 5

 

Torque settings:

 

Allen Key bolts on Ball joint assembly = 55Nm

Suspension Strut to Anti Roll Bar = 100Nm

Centre Bolt = 150Nm

Road Wheel Bolts = 140Nm

 

Have Fun ! :ph34r:

[blackwolf0578]

could this be put in FAQ took me ages to find :o

[foxyfowler]

Thsi was a VERY useful description on removing the CV from my Jan 2001 :lol: Galaxy. A couple of additional things that may help anyone else doing the job.

1. After removing the 2 x Allen screws, my lower ball joint housing required some encouragment with a chisel and hammer to part company. Nothing heavy, but a little knock.

 

2. I also stuggled to remove the hub from the CV. In the end I resorted to screwing the driveshaft long bolt in so that it just protruded from the face of the hub. I then used a smal club hammer to gently drift it off, continually srewing the bolt a little further out as it parted company. Be careful to keep the hammer face square with the head of the bolt.

 

3. Finally when I tried to use the driveshaft bolt to remove the driveshaft from the CV joint it was very tight. I used a chain type 'oil filter rmover' to prevent the CV joint from rotating and had to use a large amount of pressure to even to get it to start releasing. Finally, when the bolt was all the way in to the CV joint the driveshaft still hadn't released. I then resorted to cutting a 2" section from a spare bolt with a diameter so as to fit easily into the driveshaft bolt hole and then screwed the driveshaft bolt in after it. This did the trick.....bingo!!!

 

Also found a source for the CV joint on Ebay http://stores.ebay.co.uk/THE-MOTORIST-WARE...9QQftidZ2QQtZkm Cost me

[iluvm]

Hello,

 

I just replaced the gaitors on the inner CV Joints both sides as they were split.

 

The procedure above is very good, but it is for the outer CV joints, there are just few more points for inner cv joints. The drive shaft has to be removed to renew inner CV joints or gaitors on them.

 

I have a 54 reg 6 speed diesel galaxy and the procedure is basically same as above but I did not need to remove nut & bolt on the ball joint (stage 3). For the six speed you only then have to remove the six bolts holding inner CV joint to gear box but you will need a spline socket to remove bolts. For re-tightening of these bolts the torque should be 80Nm.

 

I have a print off of the ford procedure and it states the hub bolt should be replaced as I presume it goe's into yield but more importantly the torque should be 150Nm + 90 degrees i.e, torque hub bolt to 150Nm then mark a line across the bolt head 3 o clock to 9 o clock, then continue to tighten bolt until bolt line is 6 o clock to 12 o clock.

 

Local Ford dealers were quoting me

[WelshWheeler]

Hello,

 

I just replaced the gaitors on the inner CV Joints both sides as they were split.

 

The procedure above is very good, but it is for the outer CV joints, there are just few more points for inner cv joints. The drive shaft has to be removed to renew inner CV joints or gaitors on them.

 

I have a 54 reg 6 speed diesel galaxy and the procedure is basically same as above but I did not need to remove nut & bolt on the ball joint (stage 3). For the six speed you only then have to remove the six bolts holding inner CV joint to gear box but you will need a spline socket to remove bolts. For re-tightening of these bolts the torque should be 80Nm.

 

I have a print off of the ford procedure and it states the hub bolt should be replaced as I presume it goe's into yield but more importantly the torque should be 150Nm + 90 degrees i.e, torque hub bolt to 150Nm then mark a line across the bolt head 3 o clock to 9 o clock, then continue to tighten bolt until bolt line is 6 o clock to 12 o clock.

 

Local Ford dealers were quoting me