Removing Rear Caliper

[ali66]

Hi

 

I'm having to replace rear offside caliper - I'm struggling to disconnect it from the brake hose - any tips on the best way - I've spent a couple of hours on it but I can't get any movement - I'm assuming the rigid pipe screws into the caliper - I've never removed a caliper from this car so not 100% on how it's done.

[ali66]

OK - I gave up and bought a new flexi hose - hints and tips on best way to disconnecting old flexi pipe from rigid brake pipe and reconnecting new one - should I do that first before winding on the new caliper and how do I stop air getting into the system when disconnecting the old flexi pipe

[BrianH]

OK - I gave up and bought a new flexi hose - hints and tips on best way to disconnecting old flexi pipe from rigid brake pipe and reconnecting new one - should I do that first before winding on the new caliper and how do I stop air getting into the system when disconnecting the old flexi pipe

Your original one looks in an awful state - it should just unscrew, but looking at it I'd replace it like you have done.

 

You haven't really got much option for stopping air getting in - Jacking the car up on the rear end may help a bit, but you will need to bleed it at any rate, so wouldn't panic too much about it. Personally if i'm replacing any brake bits like that its new flexi hose at the same time and an opportunity to swap the brake fluid at the same time anyway, best not to let the reservoir completely empty, run it down and then top up with fresh fluid, pump through and bleed and repeat until you get clean fluid and no bubbles out of it. Much easier with someone to help at the brake end.

 

Suggest you assemble the new hole and caliper first, then remove the old one, get the new one ready to fit and then swap them over. Given you have a new flexi to go on, take the old caliper off first (you can leave it on the flexi hose at this point, just use a cable tie to hold the caliper out of the way somewhere whilst you undo the hose).

 

It can also help to give the joint a good soaking with wd40/gt85 or similar before you get too far into it.

[ali66]

OK - I've taken the old caliper off and hung it up - I was intending to cut the old flexi (I've got a clamp on it near to the union) and take the caliper away to give me space to work. My only concern is separating the old flexi from the rigid pipe - I've attached a photo - it looks a mess - will it be wise to get a brake pipe spanner before trying to loosen it. I'm soaking it overnight in penetrating spray. Will the nut on the rigid just screw onto the end of the flexi hose - I assume I won't need to turn the flexi hose to get a tight fit.

Thanks again

Edited February 21, 2018 by ali66

[BrianH]

Depends what state the nut is in - A brake spanner is not a bad idea at all as it gives you a bit more grip. The state of the pipe behind doesn't look good, so if you don't have any way of getting to a parts shop once you start pulling it apart I'd get something like these bits together if you can

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SEALEY-BRAKE-PIPE-KIT-FLARING-AND-CUTTING-TOOL-3-16-OD-COPPER-PIPE-20-NUTS/222799926307

 

That way worst case scenearo you have the bits to take it further back up - If i remember rightly there is a second flexi hose further up the pipework, the one you have in the photo looks past its best to me so it might be worth seeing if you can replace it back to that point (you just bend that hose I've posted to shape and flare the ends to get a seal on it).

 

If you've got access to bits probably not so much of a concern, just depends what happens when you start taking it apart (or trying to get it to come apart)

[ali66]

Thanks again for your help - I did get a brake spanner but the wrong one!! Ended up using an open ended 11mm and the nut came came off the end of the flexi pipe without a problem - changed the caliper, disc and pads and bled the system - couple of issues - I split the rubber gaiter at the end of the handbrake cable so will have to replace that.  Also when I took it for a test drive the brake warning light and sound kept coming on periodically - I think brake fluid may be a little low -  I had checked and it was just above minimum - I didn't top up because it was so difficult to access - have found a large syringe so will top up tomorrow with that.

[BrianH]

It helps to take the scuttle panel out - I found you could top up with a small bottle, but you can't really see the level at the same time. Good to know you got it sorted though.