Mk1 Galaxy Squib Issue

[WayneAli]

Hi all,

 

As the title suggests, I have an issue with the squib.  The issue arose a couple of years back when the squib gave up the ghost, so that one was replaced. Ever since I have been plagued with the airbag warning light. My MOT station usually has a tinker, resets it and it goes out for a week or so before lighting back up.

 

This time however, the MOT center told me that there was an issue with the drivers pretensioner. Off to my garage for MOT work, only to be told that the issue is "00588 - Airbag Igniter - O/S/F - N95 Resistance too high". On Googling this, I am led back to a possible squib fault. With out testing the squib, I am assuming it works based on the fact that the car horn, which draws power through the squib, is still functioning.

 

The one thing I have noticed is a small (30mm or so long) yellow plastic sprung stalk on the that passes through a small 5mm hole in the steering wheel and rests against the back of the airbag module.  If this yellow stalk is depressed it pushes a copper/brass terminal out from the back of the squib to make contact with a metal ring in the steering column. Currently, when the steering wheel, airbag, etc is all together in situ, there is a small metal ring that covers the stalk (airbag side) and I'm trying to determine if the yellow stalk should be depressed so as to make contact with the ring at the rear of the steering wheel, if so the yellow stalk is too short - either broken or worn, alternatively, the terminal at the back should not be making contact with the ring, in which case all is fine with the way it is installed. Is this right, or is it possible that the yellow stalk has worn sufficiently that the terminal (which possibly should be making contact) is no longer contacting the back ring.

 

I've just read this back to my self and even I'm confused, but I'm hopeful somebody gets what I'm on about, I shall try and add a couple of photos below to try and show the yellow stalk I'm on about.

 

If anyone has any other ideas regarding the fault code above please chirp in.

 

The car is a MK1 1999 Galaxy 2.3 ghia.

 

Many thanks in advance, Wayne

Edited November 22, 2017 by WayneAli

[WayneAli]

 

 

Edited November 22, 2017 by WayneAli

[BrianH]

the two circuits are seperate - the horn doesn't throw an intermittent fault as it works off slip rings - its less critical than the airbag circuit.

 

The airbag has to be constantly connected else it throws a failure code - and once its thrown a code the light will stay on till its reset (VCDS can do this).

 

I'd suspect the metal clip you show is a grounding clip, probably there to dissipate static electricity.

 

Given the squib moves every time you turn the wheel I'd suspect you have a broken connection in the airbag side - If you remove the metal clip from the end where it plugs into the car, and remove the airbag from the other end you should in theory be able to test for a circuit on this. DO NOT PROBE THE AIRBAG OR CAR CIRCUITS!!! You risk setting the airbag off if you do!

 

I'd suspect the squib wants replacing personally. Best thing to do is unplug the squib and check for the fault codes again, if no new ones appear you confirm your looking at the right bit at least. It may change the wording of the error, but still be looking at the same bag in which case it confirms your looking in the right area at least.

 

First step is going to be to get hold of a lead for vcds lite though.

[WayneAli]

Thanks for the info Brian,

 

I have a wifi/bluetooth scanner that I run with Torque on my phone, unfortunately I can only access the main ECU, it doesn't dig as deep as the SRS ECU, having a read up VCDS-lite is not compatible with this elm chipped adapter. Do you know of any other diagnostic software that may delve deep enough and be compatable with my ELM 327 adapter.

Edited November 22, 2017 by WayneAli

[gregers]

i could be wrong,usually am.but irrc vag wont work on your car as its not vw based.

 

why am i thinking clock spring????

[BrianH]

It won't work on the engine for the Ford petrols, but it will work on the airbags as I had to use it to reset mine after replacing the clock spring. I've used it more on other peoples VW vehicles than my own.

 

Theres some other modules on the petrols that it will talk to as well, can't remember what off the top of my head though.

 

Clock spring and squib are the same thing as far as i know? (and what he has photographed).

 

Its a case of needing an adaptor - though those aren't expensive - examples below

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UK-USB-Cable-KKL-VAG-COM-409-1-OBD2-II-OBD-Diagnostic-Scanner-VW-Audi-Seat-VCDS/192097639158

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/USB-OBD2-II-KKL-ECU-DIAGNOSTIC-CABLE-LEAD-FD232B-chip-compatible-with-VCDS-LITE/162609555255

 

You need a laptop of some sort to run it with as well though. Free version of VCDS downloaded from Ross-tech will be adequate for getting codes from the airbag unit (and clearing the error)

[sparky Paul]

Almost certainly the squib at fault.

 

VCDS will access all systems on the car except 2.0/2.3 petrol engines and PATS anti theft/locking systems, and the VAG-COM interfaces are so cheap, it's daft not having one.

 

As Brian says, don't go poking about the airbag/SRS systems without first disconnecting the battery. If you remove the airbag, store it in a safe place outside the car, face up.

[WayneAli]

Thanks all,

 

Cables ordered, thanks BrianH.

 

I have tested the squib/clock spring for continuity and it seems good, but I'm with you guys in that I still think there's an issue there.

 

My issue now is trying to find one, Mk1 parts seem to be few and far between nowadays, and trying to find 2nd hand parts is ni-on impossible, I've found a new clock spring on the bay for £90.  If anyone has thoughts on second hand and where to find one I would be forever indebted.  The part number is 95VW14A664AA.

 

Thanks again

[WayneAli]

 

VCDS will access all systems on the car except 2.0/2.3 petrol engines and PATS anti theft/locking systems, and the...

 

Just re-reading this, my Galaxy is the 2.3. Any suggestions on what software to use if VCDS Lite wont work.

[sparky Paul]

 

 

VCDS will access all systems on the car except 2.0/2.3 petrol engines and PATS anti theft/locking systems, and the...

 

Just re-reading this, my Galaxy is the 2.3. Any suggestions on what software to use if VCDS Lite wont work.

 

 

VCDS with a VAG-COM interface will definitely connect to all the VW systems on your 2.3 - ABS, SRS & Airbag, auto gearboxes, climate control, etc., but NOT the Ford engine or Ford PATS.

 

A cheap generic ELM327 based interface will do all the engine related stuff, such as EML codes & live data. Make sure it is capable of J1850-PWM protocol, some of the cheap Chinese mini bluetooth interfaces are not. I use Scantool software with the ELM327.

 

The combination of VAG-COM & ELM327 interfaces does most stuff. Access to PATS anti theft/locking system used to mean an expensive trip to the dealer, but clones of the Ford IDS diagnostic system are now available, if you need it.

 

Hope that makes it a bit clearer.

Edited November 24, 2017 by sparky Paul

[BrianH]

Thanks all,

 

Cables ordered, thanks BrianH.

 

I have tested the squib/clock spring for continuity and it seems good, but I'm with you guys in that I still think there's an issue there.

 

My issue now is trying to find one, Mk1 parts seem to be few and far between nowadays, and trying to find 2nd hand parts is ni-on impossible, I've found a new clock spring on the bay for £90.  If anyone has thoughts on second hand and where to find one I would be forever indebted.  The part number is 95VW14A664AA.

 

Thanks again

 

I had a 2nd hand one off ebay - it didn't work (same fault as beforehand). I managed to find a new one on ebay for about £35, that went on no problems at all.

 

They are parts that wear, so new is obviously preferable if possible though that might prove impossible.

 

When i did fit mine i first connected it without installing it - this allowed me to prove the first one didn't work, the second one cleared the light as soon as it was plugged in.

 

Until you take the metal clip off the connector (the yellow one with the pins in it that goes into the car loom) it will show continuity as both sides are connected to each other like that (the clip grounds the pins). That said I could get continuity on my broken one.

 

What is possible for test purposes is to bridge the connection where the airbag should be with a resistor - Its possible of course on a vehicle of that age that the ignitior has actually gone bad as the bags are only supposed to be good for approx 10 years usually. I can't remember the exact value you need to do it with, but this would also allow you to rule out the clock spring (same resistor in the end of the car loom before the clock spring). You'd need VCDS to reset the light still though.

[BrianH]

Also if it helps I have a MK1 that is deceased, though don't know if the clock spring would be the same on both of them. I'm in the process of breaking the remaining parts of it up as time permits.

Mine does work though as i was using it upto the time the engine ate two of its piston rings. I'm in Milton Keynes, its nearby.

 

The airbag works at least as far as the light goes off, but you'd need to pick that up if you wanted it as you can't send them in the post.

 

If you PM me your vin I can check both of them on Microcat and confirm if the part number is the same if that helps?

[WayneAli]

Thanks BrianH,

 

I followed your link for the cable on eBay, the second link, http://www.ebay.co.u...TE/162609555255, although a little more expensive, came with the installation CD and instructions, and more importantly - UK based.  Brand new squib, a snip at £68 with 24hr delivery installed today (Black Friday offer - down from £119.95 to £89.96, then haggled over the Best Offer).  5 minutes on VCDS Lite and all is working as it should.

 

Thanks again for all of your help - now I'm off for a MOT retest!!!

 

Wayne

[sparky Paul]

"I love it when a plan comes together" B)

 

Good luck with the MOT

[WayneAli]

"I love it when a plan comes together" B)

 

Good luck with the MOT

 

Failed on a Tyre....!!!? :( 

 

Thanks again.  ;) 

[BrianH]

 

"I love it when a plan comes together" B)

 

Good luck with the MOT

 

Failed on a Tyre....!!!? :(

 

Thanks again.  ;)

 

The reason i posted both is as you've noticed one would get delivered quicker than the other! At least its just a tyre though to replace it could be worse!

 

Glad to hear its sorted. You will probably find a use for the cable again in the future.

[sparky Paul]

I've got two brand new tyres here :rolleyes:

 

You can get the cables in the UK for a few pounds... but even at a tenner, it's worth every single penny.

[BrianH]

I've got two brand new tyres here :rolleyes:

 

You can get the cables in the UK for a few pounds... but even at a tenner, it's worth every single penny.

Slightly off topic - Any idea why the manual says you can't use mk1 wheels on a mk2?

 

I've brought two tyres for mine last week....

 

The remaining bits that want removing from mine are planned to happen this weekend. I'm guessing your signature means you've decided its time for it to go now!

[sparky Paul]

 

Slightly off topic - Any idea why the manual says you can't use mk1 wheels on a mk2?

 

It depends which brake discs are on the front Brian.

 

If your mk2 has 300mm brake discs on the front, the old mk1 16" alloys foul the brake calipers. You have to use mk2 alloys.

 

If your mk2 has the old brake setup with 288mm brake discs, and quite a few did, then AFAIK you are OK to use the old alloys.

 

 

Yes, I think it's going to have to go for spares, when I can get round to it. I can't bring myself to put the effort in to sort it out, it's all looking a bit rough under there. I've already had to tidy up the body and weld the front cross members, I can foresee an ongoing battle.

Edited November 30, 2017 by sparky Paul

[BrianH]

 

 

Slightly off topic - Any idea why the manual says you can't use mk1 wheels on a mk2?

 

It depends which brake discs are on the front Brian.

 

If your mk2 has 300mm brake discs on the front, the old mk1 16" alloys foul the brake calipers. You have to use mk2 alloys.

 

If your mk2 has the old brake setup with 288mm brake discs, and quite a few did, then AFAIK you are OK to use the old alloys.

 

 

Yes, I think it's going to have to go for spares, when I can get round to it. I can't bring myself to put the effort in to sort it out, it's all looking a bit rough under there. I've already had to tidy up the body and weld the front cross members, I can foresee an ongoing battle.

 

Hmm, mines an early one so might be in luck. Haven't had chance to check as yet. Got a melted fusebox to sort first (at least I think thats why it didn't want to start yesterday morning).