Clunking Gear Stick

[bluebird]

Hello, 2003 1.9tdi 6speed manual. my gear stick is hard to get into gears, all including reverse. There seems to be resistance going into gear. Was going to change oil but read on another site that this makes no difference. Is there any bushes at the gear stick end that may need replacing or is the clutch on the way out. 120,000mls.

Thanks fa any info given.

[BrianH]

Sounds like the clutch release bearing isn't moving as far as it should do - you might find that it just needs the clutch bleeding, particularly if any works been done on the brakes recently.

 

Its unlikely to be the oil unless the oil has been leaking of course....

[bluebird]

Thanks for the reply Brian. I'm going to bleed the system at the week end and hopefully this may rectify the problem. Did change pads and disc's last year.

[BrianH]

Pads and discs shouldn't make a difference - its more if the fluid level drops below the minimum level or if you'd replaced hoses etc that you'd expect possible problems. Bleeding should tell you though.

[sparky Paul]

You can check for clutch drag by trying the gears with the engine off - if that cures the difficulties, the clutch isn't fully releasing.

[bluebird]

Tried bleeding this morning and the clutch pedal as dropped to the floor. Has the slave packed up. ?

[BrianH]

If it has your likely to have the fluid leaking out of the bottom of the gearbox, Its possible that you haven't got the bleed nipple back in (if its like mine theres a short piece of pipe on it, its possible i think for that to unscrew from both ends). Or you've purged too much fluid through and its dropped too low in the reservoir, if the system has filled with air this would cause it to drop.

 

You may find it helps to remove the rubber surround that sits in the gearbox. it could equally be the master cylinder rather than the slave. Only way you might be able to tell is to check the fluid level then pop the pipe off where it joins and see if you get any pressure when the pedal is moved.

[bluebird]

Got no oil leaks from gear box. Tried bleeding and loads of air coming out the bleed nipple but pedal's on the floor with no pressure. It's like air is just re entering the system. !

[sparky Paul]

Have you got plenty of fluid in the reservoir? The clutch circuit will draw air first.

[BrianH]

Have you got plenty of fluid in the reservoir? The clutch circuit will draw air first.

 

Can't see any other way it would be able to push air out either - that would suggest both are fine.

 

The OP may find it easier to remove the scuttle panel to fill the brake fluid reservoir back up.

[bluebird]

Plenty of oil in reservoir, but think air may getting back via the bleed nipple. Took the 'T' piece with the nipple on, on the bell housing, now wondering if this is at fault. There's a couple of rubber o ring washers.

[BrianH]

Plenty of oil in reservoir, but think air may getting back via the bleed nipple. Took the 'T' piece with the nipple on, on the bell housing, now wondering if this is at fault. There's a couple of rubber o ring washers.

You should still have brake fluid coming out of the nipple, even if it was leaking. You might be best to take the fluid hose off the slave cylinder and check you are getting fluid down to it. Don't lose the wire clip when you take it off though!

 

If you put a plastic bag over the end of the pipe you should be able to get someone to pump the pedal and check whats coming down the line - if its air then most likely either you've got a hose come off somewhere before it enters the master cylinder, or its empty? You mention oil, just to be clear as its hard to tell from here, you are putting brake fluid in the brake fluid reservoir aren't you? If your not sure take a photo of where your adding fluid to and what your adding to it?

[bluebird]

There's some fluid coming out the nipple but it's like half air and half fluid. It is brake fluid and the res is kept on max. Found one of the clips as snapped in half so wonder if this is where the air is entering. Need to look and clean the bleed housing and get another clip and nipple.

[sparky Paul]

I know it might sound like we're trying to teach granny to suck eggs, but we have to rule out the possibility that you are doing something wrong. The reason I ask is that if you have a full reservoir and a pipe or joint split somewhere, you should be leaking brake fluid all the time.

 

I'm assuming you are doing it manually, and not using a vacuum or pressure bleeder. Do you have a clear pipe on the nipple into a container with some fluid in? Are you are closing the bleed nipple between depressing and releasing the clutch pedal? You may also have to assist the return of the pedal once the nipple is closed.

Edited November 15, 2017 by sparky Paul

[bluebird]

Hi Paul, checked all round for any oil loss, master, slave and res and can't find and not loosing any. Cleaned t piece an bleed nipple and ordered 2 new clips, will change the rubber washers and try again when the easi bleed kit arrives. There's no oil on the carpet under the master/clutch pedal. Pulled the starter motor off and that's bone dry and inside the housing.

[sparky Paul]

You shouldn't need a pressure bleeder, but you do need two people to do it manually.

 

If it's a Gunsons Eezibleed you've bought, take care when pressurising the reservoir - it's easy to blow all the fluid through from the reserve bottle, and with it a load of air bubbles. I hated mine, a cheap vacuum bleeder is infinitely better tool.

[BrianH]

You shouldn't need a pressure bleeder, but you do need two people to do it manually.

 

If it's a Gunsons Eezibleed you've bought, take care when pressurising the reservoir - it's easy to blow all the fluid through from the reserve bottle, and with it a load of air bubbles. I hated mine, a cheap vacuum bleeder is infinitely better tool.

Best bet with those (think its the type that uses the spare tyre pressure) is to drop the pressure in the tyre down to around 10psi before you start. I tend to just use the 2 person option though you need the second person who can follow what needs doing to get that to work.

[sparky Paul]

Best bet with those (think its the type that uses the spare tyre pressure) is to drop the pressure in the tyre down to around 10psi before you start.

 

That's the one. 10 psi is about right, but difficult bleeders (cars, I mean) sometimes needed a little more to push stubborn bubbles out. Also, if you are bleeding all four corners, you learn to leave a bit more air in the tyre, so as to not run out... and make sure you have no leaks, or else...

 

All a bit faffy for me.

[bluebird]

Just to finish this topic, the galaxy ended up scrapped. could,nt be arsed any more and would have cost to much and would be a matter of time for the next thing to go wrong on the car. some times you got to cut ya losses an move on. thanks for the help.