Brake Problem-Don't Think Master Cylinder

[mrben]

Hi chaps, just bought another galaxy, mk11 diesel, pd engine. 2000. I test drove it, and realised the brakes were not as good as my mk1, but now i realise they are shocking. Its like you get one 'hit' at them. When you take your foot off the pedal, and re-press within the same 10 secs or so, its like its completely non servo assisted, like when your pressing the brake with the engine off. The pedal doesn't travel down to the floor, like the fault you get with master cylinder. Even on the first 'hit', i cannot get the wheels to skid or to judder with abs etc (although not sure it has abs?). i would be up the creek if i need to do an 'emergency stop'. i can't understand how you would get some assisted braking on the first 'depress', then none on a second depress. You get assist again after about 20 secs of driving, but of course only for the first pump again etc etc. If i pump the pedal, then its right at the top, and virtually no brakes! Any help appreciated, thanks.

[traff]

the syptons you have would point to to vacum pipe from the pump....

.it does crack over time giving progresive less braking power

..would recomend removall and replacment..you can buy the type of pipe from the local motor factor

and make it up yourself ..its an easy fix

[richyrich]

Totally agree with traff - had exact same symptoms - mine was the hard plastic pipe had split at elbow where it connects to brake servo.

Complete thing available on line ( prob about 50 squid by now) hardest part of job is fitting it in original route behind engine to the vacuum pump.

Good luck

Rich

[mrben]

Many thanks chaps. I will have a go (when iv taken enough stuff out to actually get to the servo!!), and will report back. Thanks again.

[mrben]

update: Took engine cover off and saw a broken hose that connects to that disc like thing mounted on top of the engine, which i thought was the vacuum pump for the servo. I chopped the hose flush and connected it back again feeling quite chuffed that this was the problem, but, ...still the same problem. I will have another look tomorrow when i have more time.Looks like air box out and engine cover off to get to servo?...I find it hard to believe pipe would be split in two places, but you never know i soppose

[BrianH]

those hard pipes split easily - theres a reasonable chance the other end has done the same thing. Take the bulkhead panel out you should be able to see it, airbox may also help

[traff]

you wont need to buy fords own pipe......go to your local motor factors and buy brake vacume pipe.....make it yourself    change from 20 quid 

[mrben]

 

Iv just found the split, you can just see in the picture (pipe2). Don't where the rubber hose from pipe1 goes to in other picture, but that one was split aswell. Would silicon rectify the problem? Or is definitely a new pipe...Thanks chaps

[mrben]

Hello taff, sorry just seen your message about making up own vacuum pipe. I will give that a try. I pulled off split hard plastic pipe and tapped it, and put it back on. obviously was a lot tighter fit, but still problem there. 2 questions: Does the connection that goes into the servo just pull out? I gave it a wiggle, but not obvious, and does a pipe i make up have to be the hard plastic type, or can it be the rubber hose type. Thanks.

[BrianH]

Hello taff, sorry just seen your message about making up own vacuum pipe. I will give that a try. I pulled off split hard plastic pipe and tapped it, and put it back on. obviously was a lot tighter fit, but still problem there. 2 questions: Does the connection that goes into the servo just pull out? I gave it a wiggle, but not obvious, and does a pipe i make up have to be the hard plastic type, or can it be the rubber hose type. Thanks.

I've used the silicon type stretchy stuff and its been fine. As long as its vacuum pipe you should be fine. Not sure if the diesel servo is different, the petrol one does pull out of the unit, but you don't need to disconnect the 90 degree bit to replace the pipe, just cut it off to remove as long as you've got replacement.

[mrben]

_{Hi Brian. Thanks for advice. Found a pipe on ebay}     http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORD-GALAXY-1-9-TDI-MK2-00-06-AUY-BRAKE-SERVO-VACUUM-PIPE-7M4-611-931-J-/252446880433?nma=true&si=YoU3cjVE3FZWbn886dgXMGz1AQE%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557

 

So hopefully should sort it. The tape i put on must still be leaking a bit of air through, but we'll see when i get pipe on, hope it sorts it. The right angle out of servo

seems to be tight to get out. I'm going to try to make a make-shift tool to prise it out. will keep posted

[traff]

the last one that i fixed had splits in about 3 or 4 places.....not surprised its leaking

[mrben]

Quick update chaps. Got pipe in post, about to put on. I need to pull pull pipe off connection, at split part where arrowed above, (as i dont need that bit), but how do you get the bugger off?!? I let hot water flow over for a couple of minutes and have been pulling like buggery, but won't shift. I don't want to risk splitting it....

[sparky Paul]

The spigots that the pipes are pushed onto are barbed so the they go on easy, but don't want to come off.

 

Sometimes the easiest way is to carefully pare the old bit of pipe off with a Stanley knife, cutting with the blade flat to the pipe and towards the end, if you get my drift.

[mrben]

Thanks paul. Problem is, there isn't a bit i can cut away, as i need the end of the tube, that has the barbed flute in that needs to be pulled out. I was thinking of pouring boiling water onto it, but i don't want to risk totally mis-shaping the hard plastic tube (which i know boiling water can do sometimes...)

[BrianH]

I cut along mine using the split as a starting point - work away from the barbed connector you should be able to lengthen the split enough that it should pull off easily then, Otherwise your into trying to remove the inserted piece (and not tear the rubber seal in the process of doing so). Sharp blade will make it more controllable as to where you can cut it.

[mrben]

Yes, im trying to remove the inserted barbed piece, without damaging the hose its in, as its arrived in the post with a barbed connection on i dont need. I will try with boiling water and wedge it somehow to be able to give it a bloody hard pull...

[BrianH]

IF you've got the replacement genuine hose (which it sounds like you have) then it should be more obvious how you can remove the barbed bit from where its inserted into?

 

They usually just prise out if you can get a flat blade under the side of it (wide screwdriver for instance). The issue tends to be damaging the rubber insert in the process.

[mrben]

Ok thanks brian. Can you believe i havnt got round to doing this yet!! I put tape around split as a temporary fix yonks ago,

and have been using it since! I must get on it. thanks again.