Central Locking

[jcol]

The central locking has stopped working on the drivers door. This happened after I managed to set the alarm off, so now the remote locks all the doors except the driver door. I can get it locked from another door and then can lock the other doors using the remote, but the red alarm light has stopped working. Any suggestions? I no longer have a key handle for the drivers door, courtesy of a break in, and trashed lock barrel, so replaced it with a non key handle some time ago. Also I used to be able to operate the central locking from the front passenger door using the key but that now just opertes that door! Help!

T

[seatkid]

First check the wiring in the door gaitor for breaks and damage. Tech FAQ section has details about this

[jcol]

well had another look today - when I unlock the car using the remote all the doors unlock except the driver one - then if I then press I press lock all the doors lock and driver opens, and now I press unlock and they are all unlocked. To lock the car I press lock (all lock except driver) then unlock (all unlock and driver locks) and then lock - now they are all locked! So a signal seems to be getting through? 

[seatkid]

There will probably be a short in the loom. The insulation often crumblss away with the flexing. Just pull back the rubber gaitor and examine/fix the wires.

[Ben g mon]

Had the same issue,

 

removed door loom from car soldered up the broken wires on the kitchen table as access was poor. Then refitted and the red led lamp worked.

 

The drivers door wouldn't lock but everything else did, so I replaced the door lock mechanism (does everything and has the interior handle attached also)

Re configured the key as per handbook, good and has been for months now

[jcol]

Well I didn't mention that  all this happened after I resoldered a broken wire in the tailgate loom to enable the central locking to open the tailgate, so guess I should check all the wires in there first? Thanks for helpful advice. But would a [problem there cause all the problems with the central locking?

[seatkid]

Given the combinabitions and permutations of broken and shorted wires that invariably afflict the 6 flexing gaitors (one each door and two in tailgate) anything is possible.

 

Check all doors, there will be damage everywhere.

[jcol]

Well I am stuck at the tailgate - can't even manage to prise out the gaitor end into the D pillar - seems stuck... Managed to get the D pillar trim off, eventually, no slack in the wiring, guess now I need to get the top trim off in the tailgate - does it just pull off? Since all the problems started with me working on the tailgate gaitor would think the problem would be there, unless I have caused a problem elsewhere?

[seatkid]

Check the doors first, its easy to pull the rubber gaitor back and have a quick look. The doors usually go first anyway.

[jcol]

So how does the gaitor come out? Do you have to undo a cip at the car end or can you just pull it out at the door end?

[seatkid]

Just grab the rubber around the pillar end and gently twist and pull and rubber slips off the plug housing. Bit more fiddly to slip it back on, but not too difficult.

 

 

Here is a detailed guide but note you don't have to undo the retaining ring and remove the plug as you can peel/pull back the the rubber gaitor directly.

 

http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/10371-galaxy-door-boot-wiring-inspection-repair/&do=findComment&comment=82231

Edited June 12, 2016 by seatkid

[jcol]

Thanks, and had already found that post! Had a look at driver door - all wires seem fine, but as you said a bit fiddly to get the gaitor back on. Think I'll focus on the tailgate first since a few wires have problems and I can't find the other end of a thin green one - think it has been pushed out of sight down the gaitor which is why I was trying to undo the other end of the gaitor. I need to renew the loom. There is a thread where someone recommends YY wiring and used one 7 core and two 4 core. What guage does the wire need to be and will one size work for them all. Is 1mm enough? I have found the thread on removing the tailgate trim in FAQs

[jcol]

Problem solved! Noticed that my horn wasn't working, so thought I would try changing the fuse -handbook says  red 10amp, number 6 in fusebox. Checked fusebox and no way is number 6 a red fuse. At that point in despair I went to my friendly (working out of one lock up) mechanic Peter. He was also confused by what was in the handbook, but just checked all the fuses and found one 5amp blown, so changed it. Guess what, not only did the horn work but the central locking is back to normal, with the red light also working! Definitely going to get that tailgate harness sorted out properly..but still very mystified by the effect that this blown fuse had on the central locking, so that the driver door was doing the opposite to all the other doors?

[BrianH]

Problem solved! Noticed that my horn wasn't working, so thought I would try changing the fuse -handbook says  red 10amp, number 6 in fusebox. Checked fusebox and no way is number 6 a red fuse. At that point in despair I went to my friendly (working out of one lock up) mechanic Peter. He was also confused by what was in the handbook, but just checked all the fuses and found one 5amp blown, so changed it. Guess what, not only did the horn work but the central locking is back to normal, with the red light also working! Definitely going to get that tailgate harness sorted out properly..but still very mystified by the effect that this blown fuse had on the central locking, so that the driver door was doing the opposite to all the other doors?

 

Fusebox not matching the manual isn't uncommon - theres a few copies somewhere on here so you may be able to find the matching one from those if it helps.

 

I used a piece of trailer wire on mine for the thinner bits there, theres a couple of different sizes there, you need to try and match them as close as you can. Though note there was only about 3 wires in mine that were intact in total (someone elses previous bodging not really helping the situation, as it was full of dodgy repairs and melted bits of plastic held together with bathroom silicone! so was easier to replace the lot in my case)

 

Broken wires don't generally blow fuses on these, just appear to cause random things to happen or not work.

 

The boot gaiter end pieces will come out of the metalwork - theres a clip either side, but I could only get mine out after taking the rubber boot off it to see what was there. they just push back in place afterwards, you can get them back onto the rubber boot and then reinsert them.

[jcol]

Thanks for your advice - yes I can see that there seem to be two guages - might try to get a second hand loom, and use a good bit rather than the part that has been in the boot, so I can match the colours..and yes almost all the wires have cracked sheath even if they are not broken..