Tailgate Wiring Loom

[csj]

High , I know it's been covered a few times , but loom knackered on tailgate was wondering how hard a job it is to replace the loom ,

Also is the vw the same as when I changed the injector loom it was a quarter of the price .

And last where's the cheapest place to buy one . Many thanks

[BrianH]

I doubt its possible to do it - its much longer and more tangled than the injector loom. Plus i don't recall seeing a plug to seperate the rear section either, so you'd still have to rejoin wires in some way, preferably solder.

 

The faults are probably all in the gaiter, its not particularly difficult to unclip both sides of it  to give some slack to work on and replace the wires connecting like to like.

[csj]

Trouble I've got repaired a couple of times now and bust again

[BrianH]

Where are you rejoining the wires?

 

The thicker ones on mine did break again - as yet not repaired properly, but looking at It i think i might use a couple of smaller wires to replace the single thicker wire, as they should flex easier that way.

 

If you can make all joints outside of the gaiter you should be ok at least for a while - mine lasted about 2 years before I had the dashboard lighting up when using the brakes.

[sparky Paul]

As BrianH says, you need to unclip the loom from the tailgate and pull it back into the car to allow you to 'let in' some new pieces of flexible wire, putting the joints well outside of the gaiter.

 

Use the extra-flexible stranded singles, similar sizes to the originals, and it should last the car out.

[csj]

Thank you , gonna have to try again keep losing the central locking , use the car for work so probably in and out of tailgate a lot more than standard

[sparky Paul]

It's one of those jobs that you will end up going back to every couple of years, unless you make a proper job of it. Most, including myself, have bodged it a few times before they get fed up and do something more permanent.

 

If you consider replacing the larger cores with two smaller ones, bear in mind that it's the cross sectional area that determines the capacity of the wire, so a wire twice the physical diameter will carry 4 times the current, and conversely one half the diameter will only carry ¼ the current. Also consider that if you replace one wire with two, and one breaks, the remaining wire could be overloaded and may get hot along it's whole length.

[mkostadin]

Hello,

I don't know proper size of wires in tailgate wiring loom. Reading manual about fuses - I saw 20A per heated rear window and 15A for wiper motor.

Current wires in wiring loom are original but too thin. There are no labels on wires.

New wires in shop have good labels - temperature, ampers, volts, area.....

 

 

Now I'm wondering how to put proper wires. It sounds good idea to put bigger size, but this will make wiring loom too hard and will broke soon.

[BrianH]

There will be a few different sizes - I used a combination of a length of trailer lighting wire on mine for all the thin wires (these run to the locks and lights) and single thicker wires for the ones that are thicker to start with.

 

Try to stick to the same size as originally used - I seem to remember using some 17a and some 27a cable as thats what sizes i could get at the time. You may want to get a couple of colours to make it easier.

 

Don't make it too thick as they will probably break easier than the originals as you suspect - the rear hatch bends through quite an angle so stresses the cables.

[mkostadin]

I have some FLRY-B wires, but not enough colors - only red and black :(

They pretend to be very soft,  big temperature range and have lot of strands.

 

Interesting think is - they have smaller diameter than regular stranded wire with same size. May be bigger number of thin strands allows them to stay tightly in wire.

 

Finally I found some wiring diagram - for VW Sharan. They have 2.5mm2 wires for rear window heater and wiper motor. But in my Galaxy these wires looks like 1.5mm2.

I will see this when cut wires - may be they are 2.5mm2 but FLRY-b standart give them smaller diameter.

[BrianH]

the original insulation isn't particually thick - the metal part of the wire is the bit that would be measured.

 

The colour won't really matter too much as long as you can keep track of it - mine was such a mess with someone elses bodging that i had to start from scratch anyway.

[mkostadin]

Thanks!

Finally my wiring loom is renewed.

New rubber, new wires. Unfortunately 14 wires made big and not so soft bunch of cables.

I spent 2 days replacing every wire - from connector to connector.

 

Hope to not have such experience at least 2-3 years.

[asdasd]

Thanks!

Finally my wiring loom is renewed.

New rubber, new wires. Unfortunately 14 wires made big and not so soft bunch of cables.

I spent 2 days replacing every wire - from connector to connector.

 

Hope to not have such experience at least 2-3 years.

Nicely done!

 

May I ask where you purchased a new rubber boot? I cannot find the correct one on ebay, at least not for a reasonable price..

[mkostadin]

 

Thanks!

Finally my wiring loom is renewed.

New rubber, new wires. Unfortunately 14 wires made big and not so soft bunch of cables.

I spent 2 days replacing every wire - from connector to connector.

 

Hope to not have such experience at least 2-3 years.

Nicely done!

 

May I ask where you purchased a new rubber boot? I cannot find the correct one on ebay, at least not for a reasonable price..

 

Official ford dealer. It was about 10-12 euro.

I took oem number from left rubber,because right was too damaged.

Edited May 13, 2016 by mkostadin

[BrianH]

 

 

Thanks!

Finally my wiring loom is renewed.

New rubber, new wires. Unfortunately 14 wires made big and not so soft bunch of cables.

I spent 2 days replacing every wire - from connector to connector.

 

Hope to not have such experience at least 2-3 years.

Nicely done!

 

May I ask where you purchased a new rubber boot? I cannot find the correct one on ebay, at least not for a reasonable price..

 

Official ford dealer. It was about 10-12 euro.

I took oem number from left rubber,because right was too damaged.

 

http://www.allcarpartsfast.co.uk/ford/ford-1023664-grommet/

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Ford-Rear-Boot-Tailgate-Wire-Grommet-1023664-/121970438273?hash=item1c66013081:g:GA0AAOSwO~hXIhQ3

 

By the time the postage is on your looking at £12, ebay much the same.

 

Might be worth phoning a vw dealer, or going to a scrapyard to see if you can find one?

 

95VW17K652AF appears to be an alternative part number, though there should be a vw one as well though I can't currently find one

[mkostadin]

Don't use rubber boot from scrapyard. They are old and soon will brake soon.

My original got broken after 15 years. So new one will lasts some years.

[jcol]

I'm now getting ready to tackle my wiring loom issue! I did an earlier bodge, bu pullingback the boot,and everything is working except the high brake light and numberplate (mot issue). Can I get the tailgate pillar trim off without removing the door card? I'm hoping to maybe resolder/repair existing wires once I can see more clearly what is going on. But I did buy a good secondhand complete loom which has plugs at all wire ends, and the boot on it seems fine too. How easy would it be to replace the whole loom? Thanks for any advice..

[BrianH]

I've extracted the wiring loom on another car which wasn't too difficult, but putting it back in may be another issue. Depends how far back you have to go to plug it in - I don't remember seeing a connector inside so don't know how far you will have to go back to. Use your loom as a measuring stick to work out where it should end up? How big is the connector - I would guess it must be able to be pushed through into the car, as the boot part won't fit through the hole.

[jcol]

Thanks - will have a look, but the guy who sold it to me said that he would probably have to cut the loom in the car side but then found the plugs. The connectors that go into the car are just over 2cm wide, but of course they may have been attached once the wire are run through? Think the first thing I need to do though is to have a look at what is happening in the tailgate. Can I get the pillar trim off without removing the lower door card? Also, I can't see how to get the boot out at the car end. It really doesn't want to let go, and I don't want to split the rubber..It is a mark 2 Galaxy

[BrianH]

The rubber is just held on by elastic properties of the rubber - you should be able to prise it off without too much of a problem, once you've done that you can see the two clips that hold the plastic base in place.