Galaxy Tdi Wont Start After Clutch Change

[mr tickle]

hello Ford galaxy forum - First post from a noob asking for help is not a good way to introduce yourself, but needs must.

 

A few weeks ago I took the gal off the road to replace the Clutch Slave cylinder – the pedal was going too far down and the changes were stiff.
The gearbox was removed, the faulty part replaced and all put back together successfully.
I have been unsuccessful in getting the car started properly and require assistance. I have listed below all the things I have replaced/done at the same time in case I have missed something, and attached a list of the error codes retrieved from VCDS.

New exhaust / New Discs and pads / New drive-shafts / New turbo hose (intercooler to Turbo) / New Clutch Master Cylinder / New Clutch Slave cylinder / New 3 part clutch / new Brake master Cylinder 
Removed EGR, cleaned out gunk replaced.
Removed the fuel filter and pipes for access and reconnected
Removed the ECU/battery and all connectors associated for access and re-connected.

17552 MAF G70 P1144
17964 Low pressure P1556
16885 Speed Sensor P0501
16685 Cylinder1 Missfire
17569 intake air temp P1161

When I first started the car after replacing everything, it started immediately, and It drove up and down the drive, the gears, clutch and brakes worked – great I thought! But revving the car would only go upto 3k rpm and it was clearly not quite right. Holding the accelerator at WOT the car just died.
It took 30 mins of cranking to get the first cylinder to fire, then 5 mins more for 2 cyls and then eventually it ticked over on all 4. Revving it up to 3k max again caused it to die. 
I have since been unable to start it, although it is trying on 1 cylinder.
I assumed it was a fuel delivery issue, the symptoms appear that way, however I have done some tests on the flow and return of fuel and it appears quite good so have now ruled that out.  I then ran the fuel tandem pump directly from a large funnel and the level did not drop at all.

I now believe the issue is electrical.

As the ecu and many of the connectors have to be split to access the gearbox it could be these, although I have since removed the ECU again and re-split/connected these again in case there was a bad connection. I have taken off the injector loom plug and re-connected it. I have checked the MAF  Plug and Boost sensor plug is connected, all to no change.
As the engine gets moved around when the box is removed, is it possible that some wiring can get disturbed/ broken? Maybe something hidden around the back of the engine?

Is there an earth strap for the engine? I can’t remember re-fitting one.

CODES:  I’m again assuming here, but I think that the MAF error+ Low pressure error +air intake error are all thrown because the car did briefly run albeit not correctly when I started it first time and have no bearing on the issue?
Is the speed sensor error is caused because I initially tried the gearbox out with the front wheels off the ground and rotating whilst the rear were stationery?
The Miss-fire on cylinder 1 I think is relevant – what going on here?

The wife really needs this car back on the road for the charity work she does and we are both now fed up with how long it has taken to get running again. I’m certain that it’s just one thing and then it will be good to go.
If someone can help me diagnose the issue so I can get it running properly – a crate of beers will be your reward plus a thousand thank-you’s  http://www.fgoc.co.uk/forum/Smileys/default/cool.gif
If anyone fancies a trip to south wales for a day and can fix it drop me a PM 

 

Many Thanks

[chromedome]

Crankshaft positioning sensor, is this connected ok? Is it a Mk1 or Mk2?

[daddyfixit]

as above ??

 

then remove/re-connect every single multi plug that you have touched

 

then fill the diesel filter with fuel using a syringe or any method you can before refitting it and trying to start the car

 

after changing galaxy diesel filters, i usually turn ignition on for 10 seconds then switch off ----repeat half a dozen times so that tank pump can prime system-----then try to start car

[mr tickle]

Crankshaft positioning sensor, is this connected ok? Is it a Mk1 or Mk2?

A Mk 2

 

Where is the crankshaft positioning sensor? I can see a lot on the net regarding Camshaft sensors but not Crankshaft sensors

Edited March 30, 2016 by mr tickle

[mr tickle]

as above ??

 

then remove/re-connect every single multi plug that you have touched

 

then fill the diesel filter with fuel using a syringe or any method you can before refitting it and trying to start the car

 

after changing galaxy diesel filters, i usually turn ignition on for 10 seconds then switch off ----repeat half a dozen times so that tank pump can prime system-----then try to start car

I will strip all the connectors again this weekend, check and refit. 

I did fit new filter, but did pre-fill it and I did the ignition on off to prime.

[mr tickle]

 

Crankshaft positioning sensor, is this connected ok? Is it a Mk1 or Mk2?

A Mk 2

 

Where is the crankshaft positioning sensor? I can see a lot on the net regarding Camshaft sensors but not Crankshaft sensors

 

Unable to edit this earlier post.

 

I have now found info on the Crank sensor. I will also check the wires and function of the sensor.

[mr tickle]

 

 

Crankshaft positioning sensor, is this connected ok? Is it a Mk1 or Mk2?

A Mk 2

 

Where is the crankshaft positioning sensor? I can see a lot on the net regarding Camshaft sensors but not Crankshaft sensors

 

Unable to edit this earlier post.

 

I have now found info on the Crank sensor. I will also check the wires and function of the sensor.

 

Forgot to put in post that my vehicle is a 2003 1.9 TDI.

 

I have stripped off all of the electrical plugs and connectors today, removed ecu, taken out in tank fuel pump cleaned and blown out the fuel lines and reconnected everything.

 

Still no starting.

 

The light in the door does not flash, so i assume that it is not an immobiliser problem?

 

As the car was running sweetly when I started the clutch change, I can only assume that either I have damaged a wire or sensor.

 

Is it possible to damage the crank sensor when changing the clutch i.e. does it protrude from the housing and could get knocked when removing/re-fitting the box?

 

I dont want to remove the crank sensor just to check it is ok if it can't get damaged on the box change because it is a pita to get to, you have to drain the oil, and remove the filter housing first.

 

Any informed advice greatly welcomed