Russats Posted July 20, 2015 Report Posted July 20, 2015 Here is a view of the top of the strut looking from the wheel arch. Is the strut wearing into the body? MOT due in Sept. Possible failure? Quote
BrianH Posted July 20, 2015 Report Posted July 20, 2015 it does look like its worn a hole through the body, Suspect it may be an mot failure if noticed as it would fit into the prescribed area (near suspension mounting) for a failure. I'd have thought it was weldable though? Quote
sparky Paul Posted July 22, 2015 Report Posted July 22, 2015 Yes, it's weldable if it is a hole. Have a good poke about with a sharp implement, is it actually a hole, or is it just rubbed through the underseal? Either way, that top spring seat should not normally touch the body. I would suspect another problem here, perhaps the top bush worn/collapsing, or excessive front to aft movement in the suspension leg. How far does the top mount protrude above the suspension turret under the bonnet? Quote
Russats Posted July 23, 2015 Author Report Posted July 23, 2015 Quite a bit I'd say lol That's Going To Be The Rubber mount Isn't it? Quote
Russats Posted July 23, 2015 Author Report Posted July 23, 2015 This is it jacked up. Clearly movement there Quote
Russats Posted July 23, 2015 Author Report Posted July 23, 2015 On closer inspection after a clean up it appears it's not worn through the metal. So just need to change that rubber mount. Does the whole strut need to come out to do so or can I get away with not undoing the lower clamp bolt.? Quote
BrianH Posted July 23, 2015 Report Posted July 23, 2015 This post http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/26795-strut-bearings-can-they-be-changed-in-situ/?hl=rubbersuggests its possible to change the rubber mount without removing the strut. I'd suspect unless you can get the top nut undone (which i'd find doubtful given the state they appear to get in) that you would end up replacing the shock absorber anyway so would have to separate the bottom end. Quote
Russats Posted July 23, 2015 Author Report Posted July 23, 2015 I had to change the other strut last year as it had a broken spring and someone had welded the spring to the top plate. So I bought a used strut. Managed to get that nut undone so fingers crossed. Quote
sparky Paul Posted July 23, 2015 Report Posted July 23, 2015 Yes, you can replace the top rubber bush without taking the strut out, so long as you can undo the top nut. If it's the bearing, you've had it though - it's a strut out job. Your top mount doesn't seem to be protruding excessively... is that first pic with the weight on the strut? If it is, that looks pretty normal. How long have you had the car, and when did you notice the damage under the turret? It's not previous damage from a faulty top bush/bearing which has since been repaired, is it? Quote
Russats Posted July 24, 2015 Author Report Posted July 24, 2015 I've owned it just over a year. I'm unsure when they were replaced It sits low on that side. Yes the first pic is it with the full weight on Quote
sparky Paul Posted July 24, 2015 Report Posted July 24, 2015 From the underside pic, that top spring seat will be very close to the suspension turret when lowered, I'm assuming the pic was taken jacked up. One possibility is that the lower nut which holds the bearing onto the spring seat has come loose, allowing the bearing and top spring seat to cock over - which would account for the wear being on one side only. The spring end pushes more on one side of the seat, giving it a tendency to cock over one way if loose. It may not have been tightened properly on assembly, or maybe the spring seat was caught up on the bearing shoulder and not properly seated on shocker shaft. Ideally, the strut would need to come out so that you can visually check that everything is in the correct place and properly seated, however this can turn into a difficult job on the Galaxy. An alternative is to remove the top cup and check that the lower nut is tight with a long reach socket. If loose, you need to take care to make sure that the top seat does not get caught up on the shoulder of the shocker shaft as you tighten, a bit of tapping about of the spring seat as you tighten it should do the trick. Quote
Russats Posted July 24, 2015 Author Report Posted July 24, 2015 First and second pics are when the car is at ground level.Pics 3 and 4 were taken while the car was jacked up Quote
sparky Paul Posted July 24, 2015 Report Posted July 24, 2015 (edited) Looking at that first pic, it does look close on that side. The top rubber bush looks like it's seated properly, from what you can see, you could have a feel of the gaps around the other front leg for comparison. The top spring seat does sit fairly close to the turret normally, but yours looks well tilted forwards. It does tilt from front to back as you turn from lock to lock, but the top spring seat shouldn't touch the body, obviously. Are you absolutely sure it isn't previous damage? the worn area looks rusty, and I would expect it to be bright steel if it was rubbing now. If you think it is definitely still fouling the turret, I would think that the answer is to get a top bearing/bush set and replace the rubber, making sure everything is properly seated and tight while the top cup is off and the strut detached from the turret. You can pull the strut down a bit to see things a little more easily. If the suspension is obviously lower than the other side, that would point more to a tired spring or even broken - you can loose a curl off the end without it being immediately obvious. Or perhaps it's had a new spring on the other side at some point? Edited July 24, 2015 by sparky Paul Quote
Russats Posted July 24, 2015 Author Report Posted July 24, 2015 Well it failed last year on a broken spring the n/s. I took it to be done (both) springs and the top plate was welded to the spring for some reason. They didn't have the part in stock to replace the top plate if they were to cut it off. So I bought a used complete strut to get it through the MOT and fitted it my self. Quote
sparky Paul Posted July 24, 2015 Report Posted July 24, 2015 (edited) Odd place for a bit of weld. I've seen it done to stop the spring rotating... which it shouldn't, if the coilspring and end stops are intact. The top spring seat on the Galaxy is free to rotate anyway, so I can't really understand that one. Was the replacement strut the same spec? There are different spring rates for different engines. In any case, if you don't replace springs in matched pairs, it's not hard to end up very slightly lop-sided. You probably have a slightly weaker spring on the low side. Edited July 24, 2015 by sparky Paul Quote
Russats Posted July 25, 2015 Author Report Posted July 25, 2015 I wish I had changed both noe. Well, the replacement one had a slightly longer leg and there is about 4 inches below the clamp behind the brakes. Whereas the old one and the offside one were flush with the clamp. Quote
sparky Paul Posted July 25, 2015 Report Posted July 25, 2015 (edited) I wish I had changed both noe. Well, the replacement one had a slightly longer leg and there is about 4 inches below the clamp behind the brakes. Whereas the old one and the offside one were flush with the clamp. Looks like you have found the answer. :unsure: Sounds like the wrong shock absorber to me. Should be flush, as you say. Edited July 25, 2015 by sparky Paul Quote
Russats Posted July 25, 2015 Author Report Posted July 25, 2015 I believe some are like that for some reason. Both of the ones on my Alhambra were longer beyond the clamp where as my Current Galaxy they were no further than the clamp. Check out the pics on this thread and you'll see one that is longer. Almost touching the CV boot Quote
Russats Posted July 25, 2015 Author Report Posted July 25, 2015 http://www.forum.fordmpv.com/smf2/ford-galaxy-reference-library/ford-galaxy-replacing-the-front-wheel-bearing/ Quote
sparky Paul Posted July 25, 2015 Report Posted July 25, 2015 Yes, I think I've seen ones like those, come to think of it. If you look at the picture of the shocker with the hub removed, you can see that the 2" or so below the hub is narrower, you cannot clamp to this. The clamp sits on the wider part further up. I guess it's the design of the shocker, but the extended and contracted lengths from the hub clamp to the top nut should be a standard measurement. Quote
BrianH Posted July 26, 2015 Report Posted July 26, 2015 I do wonder if your post about the anti roll bar that your missing has something to do with the problems your having? Quote
Russats Posted July 26, 2015 Author Report Posted July 26, 2015 I have wondered if the lack of anti roll bar has anything to do with it all, but if there was much of an issue with it not being there I wouldn't have thought it would get through an MOT Quote
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