jczecca Posted June 1, 2015 Report Posted June 1, 2015 Hi this is my first post so take it easy on me. Bought this car for the other half and all of a sudden the drivers side window controls are not working but they were when bought noticed when the door opens there is tape on two of the wires.. The heater is only blowing cold air but the water pump and cam belt as just been changed as i was given the receipt. the parking sensors dont work either. think i've been done Quote
BrianH Posted June 1, 2015 Report Posted June 1, 2015 You shouldn't be able to see the wires in the door hinge area under normal circumstances they should be enclosed by the gaiter. They will be the cause of the windows not working though from the drivers side - details on fixing in the faq section. Being a diesel i think the run on pump may be your issue (separate electric pump that pushes hot water to the rear heater) or it could be an issue with the heater inside (flaps not moving) - do the heater hoses get hot on both sides of the feed to the front heater? Only idea i can suggest for the parking sensors is check the boot gaiter on the drivers side - if the front door has broken wires the boot will probably contain more, and these cause all sorts of odd things to happen when broken Where have you brought it from? Car dealer or private sale or somewhere else? Quote
jczecca Posted June 1, 2015 Author Report Posted June 1, 2015 car auction The gaiter is there but can still see wires when door is open. The heater hoses stay cold. thanks . Quote
BrianH Posted June 1, 2015 Report Posted June 1, 2015 your stuck then with it as far as i know, believe these are usually sold as seen affairs. The broken wire/window issue is relatively easy to sort - splice new bits of wire the same size in place and solder. FAQ section will assist with that. once you have the wires sorted the gaiter should be hiding/protecting the wires so it must have come loose from whoevers bodged it with tape previously. Heater hoses staying cold suggests a water circulation issue - there is a test of the water pump actually working - if i recall correctly then its a case of remove the expansion cap and check there is water being returned to the tank from the small hose (if it isn't theres a good chance the impeller has come away from the pump - it will also overheat under heavy load if this is the case). Is this both heaters or just one? if one which one? Only thing i can suggest is checking the other gaiters for the parking sensor wires first, and any fuses (if theres blown fuses these may be down to broken wires) Quote
Russats Posted June 3, 2015 Report Posted June 3, 2015 Broken piping in the passenger footwell can damage the parking sensor module. A Symptom of this is the rear washer not squirting water out. Easy fix though. Quote
jczecca Posted June 4, 2015 Author Report Posted June 4, 2015 Changed the run on pump but still no hot air. just hope gasket as not gone. Quote
BrianH Posted June 4, 2015 Report Posted June 4, 2015 Are you getting coolent returned to the expansion tank when engine is running? Quote
jczecca Posted June 4, 2015 Author Report Posted June 4, 2015 just checked the two pipes connected to the run on pump and both are hot Quote
BrianH Posted June 4, 2015 Report Posted June 4, 2015 At least that seems to be working then, There isn't any reason to think the head gasket is gone unless your seeing the warning signs (white sludge in the oil, clouds of smoke/steam out the exhaust, pressure in the expansion tank that shouldn't be there etc). If your getting water returned to the expansion tank then the main engine water pump should be ok, it may just be an airlock - check the level of the coolent and run the engine with the cap off, allow it to warm up and you might manage to release it, otherwise you might have to drain it and refill it slowly to release it. another option you may have is to remove the hose clip from either side of the heater connection and pull the hose off the connector - this should allow you to release the air from it with any luck Quote
jczecca Posted June 4, 2015 Author Report Posted June 4, 2015 New mot cam belt and main water pump been done a month ago. Quote
BrianH Posted June 4, 2015 Report Posted June 4, 2015 New mot cam belt and main water pump been done a month ago.Yes I know you said that but it's still recommended to check it's actually working! The new water pump is the reason I'd suspect the heater is possibly airlocked after refilling. Quote
SilverBeast Posted June 4, 2015 Report Posted June 4, 2015 As BrianH implies. Filling cooling system needs to be done slowly as prone to airlocks. If the cooling system was filled too quickly after pump change it may have an airlock. With cold engine. (i) Jack up front of car and support on axle stands. It seems to help prevent airlocks when refilling .(ii) Drain coolant - catch and re-use if you can/wish. Measure how much you got out(iii) Refill slowly, measuring how much goes back in. If you put back in more than you got out it had an airlock and hopefully all shoud be OK. Have you checked that water is returning to the expansion tank I don't believe you have said yet. With cold engine take off lid of expansion tank. Start engine and check water is running back into expansion tank via little hose that feeds into the top of it. I understand this has a one way valve in it that can get blocked. Quote
jczecca Posted June 5, 2015 Author Report Posted June 5, 2015 Took the car to mechanics today and the fella told me that it will be the flap that opens for the warm air is stuck shut will cost 350 labour or it could be the motor that powers it witch would be considerably cheaper. Quote
BrianH Posted June 5, 2015 Report Posted June 5, 2015 Given you say the hoses to the matrix are cold that might not be correct. Does the back one get hot? Quote
jczecca Posted June 5, 2015 Author Report Posted June 5, 2015 Will check tomorrow the car is breaking me slowly. Thanks for all your help will keep you updated. Quote
xavier Posted June 5, 2015 Report Posted June 5, 2015 just a quick question from me, when it's dark go out and turn the lights on and see if the heater control panel lights up. If it doesn't it could either be a faulty panel or just need reset. To reset it unplug it (guide again in the FAQ). I had a scary moment recently when the heater failed to work, thought it was the head gasket gone until later at night driving home I realised the panel wasn't lit up. Once I reset it all was fixed (Ito reset it you unplug it, wait 10 secs then plug it back in again). Quote
xavier Posted June 5, 2015 Report Posted June 5, 2015 Sorry I should add, if the panel has "failed" it'll fail at the setting it was set at when it went, the only thing that will work subsequently is the fan speed. The temp, fan direction (dash, front or feet), recirculation and a/c (if it works which if it's a standard mk2 galaxy it won't) will not light up. Quote
xavier Posted June 5, 2015 Report Posted June 5, 2015 It would be helpful if you could put the model, year and mark in your footer, helps with diagnosis. Quote
xavier Posted June 6, 2015 Report Posted June 6, 2015 I think the panel is probably ok then, does it's back-light come on when you put the lights on? Quote
SilverBeast Posted June 7, 2015 Report Posted June 7, 2015 Just to be clear (mainly because I am not sure if any MKII had manual controls) does it have:-(i) Climate Control - All heating, ventilation and air-conditioning is controlled by LCD control panel at bottom of dash just above ashtray.(ii) Manual air conditioning - Not familiar with this but I think it has three rotary controls for temperature, air flow and fan speed and a switch to turn air-con on and off Quote
jczecca Posted June 10, 2015 Author Report Posted June 10, 2015 Just got back from different mechanics they said that head gasket had gone. They said that the pressure in the water tank was ridiculous as the ignition was only on for 2 mins. Quote
BrianH Posted June 10, 2015 Report Posted June 10, 2015 Well that info is probabbly good in a way. Depends why the gasket has gone, water pump is a possibility as you've already had it changed, but it shouldn't be as labour intensive as digging into the dash to get to the heater (and given that you've got a sign with the pressure in the tank of it having blown this sounds like a more accurate diagnosis) Quote
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