Front Discs & Pads (1St Timer)

[Russats]

good for you,WANNA do mine? :rolleyes:

£500 plus parts and VAT

[gregers]

cool wouldve given you more.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

NOT. :26: :lol:

[seatkid]

OK guys, Has anyone tried to remove a disk (Mk1) without removing the carrier? Bearing in mind once the disc is free off the hub, you can twist it about a lot?

[BrianH]

Bolts rounded off by any chance? I haven't tried personally. Have used the irwin bolt remover on similar problematic bolts in the past.

 

Of course you could smash the disc off to remove it, but I'm guessing you want to put a new one in its place so thats probably not the best approach.

[sparky Paul]

Pretty sure carrier has to come off SK.

 

Bolt remover worth a try, but these are tight. If you can do it, quick dirty way is to weld a nut on the bolt, the heat also expands the bolt length a bit and loosens it while it's hot.

[seatkid]

Wow! Still someone around! Fantastic!

 

No I'm not having any problems, just prepping for the job. I dont have a breaker bar and dont want to risk knackering my torque wrench etc.

 

I changed my sons Octavias disks/pads last moth and that has a bit of carrier front overhang, but the disks slipped out without problem. I cant believe that manufacturers design these things such you have to do a major strip, especially with such ridiculously tight bolts.

 

As I dont have a decent jack either (I use the car jack and a large angle bracket as a safety), I might just take my parts to the local indie and pay him to change. But I'm slightly worried he'll bend my sills like just about every garage has managed to do. And also will he just push the fluid back?

 

Or I'll spend £15 for a sealey breaker bar (750mm) and a decent single hex socket (I'm worried that my bihex socket isnt up to the job). Plus a decent jack? Decisions decisions.

 

Crickey, the car has only done 145k miles in 17 years and I'm already having to change the front discs/pads?? Maybe I'll submit a warranty claim :40:

 

DIscs down to 21.5 mm and pads down to 2mm, the lip on the discs is just touching the pad backplate. Perhaps I should just file the lip down to use the last 2mm? :43:

 

 

Will a 750mm breaker bar be ok? I think I read the carrier bolts are tightened to 190Nm (mk1)

[BrianH]

When i did them they had fairly good bolts (both front and back) - proper hex head on them no Torx nonsense like other cars. Came undone without too much problem due to that. Decent breaker bar and good fitting socket should allow you to sort it without too much of a problem.

 

You can get to the front ones without jacking the car to check socket size, I can't remember what they were offhand for definite, 15mm seems to ring a bell though?

 

Good luck with your warranty claim! Sounds about as hopeful as my mate with his Series III landrover - he wants to send the handbrake shoes back as they have worn out finally...

[sparky Paul]

I might just take my parts to the local indie and pay him to change. But I'm slightly worried he'll bend my sills like just about every garage has managed to do. And also will he just push the fluid back?

 

I would say quite possibly, and almost certainly. ;)

 

 

A breaker bar and a full hex socket is the best way, or a ring spanner and a hammer if the bolts are good. And there's the rub... these stupid reduced head bolts are suffering at this age, I did my front discs last year I think, and I had to be very careful indeed with one of the bolts. If I had to take the carrier off again for any reason, I think it would be new bolts time.

 

As for the last 2mm, if you can't be arsed to do the discs now, why not zip the edges off. If the discs are otherwise good and evenly worn, I might even go for a another set of pads on them at 21.5mm. How long has it got to last? Or are you looking to get another 17 years out of it? :rolleyes:

 

149K on mine now, and the back discs & pads are desperate. Bits are sat here, waiting for a dry day. Starting to get a stream of niggly problems now, but I've had it 13 years and bloody hell it's been a good car.

Edited June 15, 2016 by sparky Paul

[seatkid]

Good comments guys, yes I'm still procrastinating about just banging in new pads as, unusually, the discs are worn fantastically flat and smooth. But they only have a smidgen over 0.5mm of official life left which I calculated would last only 18000 miles (over 2 years).

 

No ideas how much longer I'll keep the car. Its the best car I've ever owned in 43 years, and even though I also have another much newer car, the old Alhambra is such a versatile vehicle that everyone loves and wants to borrow. Having said that, the cambelt could do with changing (done about 70k in about 9 years) and again I'm not happy a garage could do this right without breaking something else.

[sparky Paul]

If the discs were worn flat, I wouldn't be too worried about going a bit under 21mm. They aren't going to snap in two, and the MOT man won't get the caliper out if they look okay.

Edited June 15, 2016 by sparky Paul

[BrianH]

 

I might just take my parts to the local indie and pay him to change. But I'm slightly worried he'll bend my sills like just about every garage has managed to do. And also will he just push the fluid back?

 

I would say quite possibly, and almost certainly. ;)

 

 

A breaker bar and a full hex socket is the best way, or a ring spanner and a hammer if the bolts are good. And there's the rub... these stupid reduced head bolts are suffering at this age, I did my front discs last year I think, and I had to be very careful indeed with one of the bolts. If I had to take the carrier off again for any reason, I think it would be new bolts time.

 

As for the last 2mm, if you can't be arsed to do the discs now, why not zip the edges off. If the discs are otherwise good and evenly worn, I might even go for a another set of pads on them at 21.5mm. How long has it got to last? Or are you looking to get another 17 years out of it? :rolleyes:

 

149K on mine now, and the back discs & pads are desperate. Bits are sat here, waiting for a dry day. Starting to get a stream of niggly problems now, but I've had it 13 years and bloody hell it's been a good car.

 

 

Only 149K? Should have a fair bit of life left in it yet still. Mine is rapidly approaching either having to do major work on the engine or replacing it now, but its done 224k now.

 

I'd go with having at least a couple of replacement bolts if you can find them (i got some from VW but this was about 18 months ago now), if they do snap you should be able to remove the caliper bracket to find something to grab hold of to remove them.

[sparky Paul]

 

I'd go with having at least a couple of replacement bolts if you can find them (i got some from VW but this was about 18 months ago now), if they do snap you should be able to remove the caliper bracket to find something to grab hold of to remove them.

 

 

I'm hoping I don't have to remove the front calipers again. If I have to, I'll get them off okay. The discs are still pretty new, and the the back ones will be done when this shitty weather clears up - as well as a new rear caliper, as one has started weeping from the handbrake lever.

 

For it's age, it still looks great - I did quite a bit of cosmetic work on it last year... usual spots, scabby sills, bottom of front wings, tailgate lock area. It's just the mechanicals that are getting old and crusty. There is also a horrible knock developing on the nearside front which is none of the usual problems, I'm starting to think it might be a faulty shocker.

[sparky Paul]

Oh yes, and my 17 year old sills are completely un-squashed... which, looking around many of the Galaxys still on the road, is a rarity!

[seatkid]

Oh yes, and my 17 year old sills are completely un-squashed... which, looking around many of the Galaxys still on the road, is a rarity!

Very rare indeed!

 

ATE pads/disks all ready, ordering breaker bar later today. Need a nice sunny day and some get up and go (it can be difficult to get motivated nowadays)

 

Just need to check the bolt sizes to get a 6 point socket. The bolts look in good nick having never been touched and are not rusty, just dusty.

 

Will report back later. Will check if disks can be removed sans carrier. And if I do have problems with the bolts, then they'll stay in, and its pads only change and the disks back to ecp (need to tackle the job in the next 29 days).

[sparky Paul]

Well, all I can remember is that I had to take the carriers off, and I wouldn't have done if there was any other way. I think the carrier is too close to the disc to allow it out.

 

As for size, I know BrianH guessed at 15mm, I might be wrong but I think they may be 16mm... everything suspension and hub related seems to be 16-18-21mm. Not 100% certain though, so you will have to check. The problem with this that there is a big shoulder and reduced head on these bolts, and a bit of corrosion causes some problems. I think I may have had to knock a 15mm socket onto the bad one to do it up.

 

If the bolt heads look good, I can't see you having any problems.

 

 

 

(it can be difficult to get motivated nowadays)

 

Ditto here.

[BrianH]

Well, all I can remember is that I had to take the carriers off, and I wouldn't have done if there was any other way. I think the carrier is too close to the disc to allow it out.

 

As for size, I know BrianH guessed at 15mm, I might be wrong but I think they may be 16mm... everything suspension and hub related seems to be 16-18-21mm. Not 100% certain though, so you will have to check. The problem with this that there is a big shoulder and reduced head on these bolts, and a bit of corrosion causes some problems. I think I may have had to knock a 15mm socket onto the bad one to do it up.

 

If the bolt heads look good, I can't see you having any problems.

 

 

 

(it can be difficult to get motivated nowadays)

 

Ditto here.

16mm certainly possible - I've got a couple of the bolts around somewhere, if i can find them I'll check. Bolts are accessible without jacking up the car or removing the wheels though  so easy to confirm.

[seatkid]

Checked yesterday - 18mm reduced head with shoulder.

[sparky Paul]

I knew it would one of those stupid sizes. :P

[sparky Paul]

I'm just doing the back discs pads and replacing a leaking caliper, and the carrier bolts are the same - 18mm...

 

...only they're 17mm now due to the corrosion on the bolt head, and me filing them up square again. Much more sensible size. ;)

 

 

Also waiting for a front n/s driveshaft to arrive, things are going wrong faster than I can repair them.

[seatkid]

Well at least they're not those stupid splined round head bolts they fit nowadays.....

 

Got the (Ate original) discs and pads (£72), sealey 750mm breaker bar (£13.50) and 18mm six point socket (£3.50). And now the metal to metal grinding has disappeared, so the job can wait a while....

 

Need 2 new tyres this year, new temperature sensor needs fitting, door/hatch wiring needs fettling. Battery seems weak. And rust starting to appear, particularly around rear boot lock. Son has monopolised the garage space with the junk from his house move, so shes sat outside and getting weathered. And the cambelt is now about 9 years/70,000 miles old.

 

Renewed insurance today, what with that and £230+ ved, mot costs, starting to wonder if its worth while considering I only do about 5000 miles per year in her now.

Edited July 7, 2016 by seatkid

[sparky Paul]

Off topic, but what do you pay for insurance sk? Mine was about £180 this year, was only £138 last year. Seems crazy for fully comp, protect ncb and business use!

 

Oh, and the driveshaft came with a boot clamp bust, so they are sending new clamps out for delivery tomorrow. Hopefully.

 

Brakes all done, but car immobile due to knackered inner driveshaft joint.

Edited July 7, 2016 by sparky Paul

[seatkid]

£212 up from £190 last year, direct line. Not happy.

[BrianH]

Off topic, but what do you pay for insurance sk? Mine was about £180 this year, was only £138 last year. Seems crazy for fully comp, protect ncb and business use!

 

Oh, and the driveshaft came with a boot clamp bust, so they are sending new clamps out for delivery tomorrow. Hopefully.

 

Brakes all done, but car immobile due to knackered inner driveshaft joint.

 

£212 up from £190 last year, direct line. Not happy.

Mines more than the pair of yours put together so don't complain too much!

[Russats]

A breaker bar is your friend for many jobs I've found!!

[seatkid]

Well, finally got round to doing the job today, (nearside pads worn down to 1mm!!)

 

I can confirm that the carrier does need to be removed to change the discs. The 18mm bolts came out very easily with a breaker bar, though the ebay 6 point socket proved to be piss poor soft bugger made in china even though sold under a german brandname. It would have been better and cheaper to buy one from ecp.