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Posted

I had a drivers door lock problem. I thought I had it all solved as follows:

 

The driver lock has a busted barrel. So I removed the passenger handle and put that in the drivers side. It worked fine.

 

Then I put the drivers handle in the passenger side (with no paddle connection between the barrel and the lock). the passenger lock had been disconnected electrically. As I reconnected the top of the two electric harnesses to the passenger lock I got a shock as the door window suddenly came down (scary because my hand was inside the door). Then I connected the second harness.

 

Now everything is back together, but when I turn the ignition off the front windows open.

 

I can close them buy locking the door and keeping the key turned left.

 

But the passenger door does not lock.

 

What's the cause of that?

 

Maybe I've left the passenger lock in the wrong position?

Posted

Solved.  I'd left the passenger lock in the wrong position.

 

All is good, except I'm now vulnerable to a single point of failure as the drivers door is the only working keyhole. Trip to the scrap yard would be sensible. Or new barrel kit.

Posted

Theres instructions on the faq if you want to put a remote locking kit on. Its fairly easy to do so and gives you another option at least.

 

When i enquired at ford about a new barrel it didn't seem possible to get one on the same key anyway, they could only provide a complete handle with barrel and key which would be a different key to the rest anyway. May get more luck with VW?

Posted

And in response to the topic the global opening of the windows is down to the switches next to the lock barrel, though i guess you already realised that now? Incidentally the boot lock also does this function.

Posted

Tailgate lock doesn't turn.  I might take it out and take it apart to give it a clean.

 

Worrying thing is that in playing with the ex-passenger door lock, it shows a tendency to catch sometimes (at about 45 degrees) and has trapped my key twice whilst playing around with it off the car. Makes me think that the original trapped key might have worked loose with more time spent wiggling before I resorted to force.

 

A remote locking kit is the best idea, as it saves wear on my (only) key.

Posted

that sounds very much like the switches are the cause of your issue to me (with the sticking lock). If you still have it apart the switch assembly will come out, but you need the catch out to take it out. It could be that the tailgate lock isn't on the same key if its been swapped previously.

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