Auxiliary Heater Questions

[Yozza]

I imagine I'm not the only one with aux heater woes now that the weather is sub 5.

 

Mine doesn't even make an attempt to start, I've only had the vehicle since spring, so this is it's first winter with me.

 

1. I did take the glow plug out and bench tested it, it goes orange hot (should it glow any brighter/hotter)?

 

2. How do you diagnose these units if you don't have a control panel?

 

3. Is it possible to reset the previous fault without a control panel?

 

4. I may be able to get a control panel, if so, is there anywhere it can be connected for diagnostics?

 

5. Where is the air temperature sensor that it one of the ebers inputs?

 

Lots of questions, sorry.

 

Cheerz,

Yozza

[seatkid]

As you have a Mk2, then if the unit has suffered more than 3 succesive flameouts in a row, then the unit locks out and needs to be reset via diagnositics (VCDS). The thermoswitch that controls it is situated in a clip just above and in front of the pollen filter. Removing the engine scuttle panel will reveal it. It is a switch, so shorting it out should start the unit (unless its locked out)

[SilverBeast]

As seatkid states sensor is clipped to the wiper mechanism just in front of the pollen filter on a plastic clip that the wiper wiring is also attached to,

 

It will be worth getting a VCDS-LITE cable from ebay such as this both to diagnose your heater and for the rest of the car too.

 

[a18nkd]

I had problems with my mk1 heater and as said it is clipped to wiper linkages next to pollen/cabin filter just place a paper clip between the two terminals in the clip and this worked spot on I had a few problems with fuel getting to the heater but managed to draw the fuel through with a syringe this seemed to free up the fuel and all is ok now just sounds like a jet engine spinning up  

[Yozza]

Thanks for the replies fellas, I stripped the unit down and it fired up when I plugged it back in to the main loom - happy days.

 

I have read on a data sheet that Mk2 pre 2003 will only start if it's sub 5deg, whereas after '03 they changed it so the heater kicked in if it's sub 10deg.

 

Mine is '02, is it just a case of changing the temp sensor by the wiper mechanism to a later one to trigger a start once it's below 10?

 

Thanks,

Y

[daddyfixit]

mines a 2000, its kicking in at below 10c

 

I think the operating temps are built into the control unit that is the end part of the main body ?

[seatkid]

Its dependant on the the thermoswitch hung on the wiper mechanism. Its a conventional bimetallic switch.

[Galaxy23]

Does anyone know the part no or where to get one from - a booster heater temp sensor that is fitted in front of the pollen filter.

 

I spoke with Ford and they couldn't find the temp sensor on their system

 

How may temp sensors should the galaxy have ?

 

My gal keeps on bringing up a fault code 01410 heater over temp and then its 01409 flame out. I clear the fault code with a vag com and it starts working again. Might be cheaper just clearing the fault codes each time.

 

Would be grateful for any advice.

 

Thanks

 

Paul..

[SilverBeast]

If it's firing up it's not the temperature sensor.

 

If it's coming up over temp, it's most likely that the run on pump isn't working.  The run on pump runs all the time the ignition is on and for 2 minutes after the engine is turned off on models other than 130 and 150.  This circulates water round the rear heating circuit.  When it doesn't run the water heated by the booster heater doesn't leave the heater and the heater overheats (and you get your overheat code) and shut's itself down.

 

The brushes on the motor tend to wear out around 80k miles but can be replaced.  See this thread here for instructions.

[chrislloydie]

Will a duff run on pump throw up fault codes on vcds?

[SilverBeast]

You don't get codes from the pump as there is no detection whether it's working.  Look at the thread above to identify where it is.  Turn on ignition, but don't start.  Turn heater fans and air con off.  You should hear it running.  If you can get your hand to it you will also feel it vibrating.  If you have a 90 or 115 I believe it also runs on for a couple of minutes after you turn off the ignition.  It doesn't on my 130 and probably doesn't on the 150.

[Galaxy23]

Thanks..... will check the thread

[chrislloydie]

My pump is dead. Ive ordered new brushes and will have a go at replacing them myself rather than buy a new pump.

[xavier]

Given my experience I'd suggest investing in :

 

1) a Constant Tension Clip removal tool

2) a box of toothpicks to hold the springs back from the brushes while you reassemble

[Galaxy23]

Just plugged a vag com into the gal. I now have 3 fault codes for the booster heater:

 

01413 - Dosing/metering pump (V54)  static- short circuit to earth

 

01410- heater over temp

 

01492- function lock out 06-00 signal too high

 

I have cleared the fault codes again and the heater has fired up.

 

Might be better if I just clear the fault codes every time

 

What can I check ?

 

Do I need a new dosing pump or is it simply a wiring issue that is causing these faults.

[SilverBeast]

(i) Did you check that the pump is running as I described in post #11 above?

(ii) What mileage has the car done? The auxilliary coolant pumps seem to wear out the brushes at around 80k miles as they are running all the time the ignition is on.

(iii) Which booster heater do you have? (it's on the label stuck on the side of the heater or in the vag-com controller code when you connect) - I'm assuming a D5Z-F like my 05 TDI 130, though it does depend on model year.

 

Run it for a bit and see what/if any codes recur.

 

Run the car from cold while parked and use the VAG-COM ability to monitor the outputs to see what temperatures the chambers get to.- it will take quite a while for the input/output coolant temperatures to rise (20-30minutes).  If the auxilliary coolant pump ISN'T running.then it will rise a lot faster.

[Galaxy23]

I haven't checked the pump is running as of yet.

 

Car has done 102k and it is an 05 Tdi Ghia . I think it has the D5Z-F.

 

Don't think my vag com can check outputs as its only a basic one .It.s vs450 vgate scanner.

 

I suspect that it is the run on pump as after clearing the codes and going for a drive the 01410 fault code came up- heater over temp.

 

Do you think this is the likely candidate and that the bushes are worn ?

 

Thanks

 

Paul

[xavier]

Yes, the pump bushes normally last about 80K miles. See if you can hear the pump with the bonnet open, though the noise of the clattery engine might drown it out if it was there. Biggest clue is the overtemp fault in my opinion, I'd take the pump out and strip down to do the brushes if you're so inclined (or get a garage to replace the pump if you're not).

[SilverBeast]

Definitely likely to be auxiliary pump brushes.

 

To check if it's running do as I said above.  You don't have to start the car just turn ignition so all dash lights come on.  Turning off heating stops heater fans running (turn the front ones right down till it says off).  You should be able to hear pump and/or feel it vibrating with bonnet open.

 

I wouldn't keep running auxiliary heater (in fact I would pull the fuse to stop it working until you fix the pump) as in my opinion running it with the pump not working could be what damages the control PCB's on D5Z-F's and that is expensive to replace.

[Galaxy23]

Thanks for the replies>

 

Where can I get the bushes from ? What size do I need and how many ?

 

What fuse do I need to take out ?

 

Thanks,

 

Paul

[chrislloydie]

I ordered bushes off ebay for a fiver. Search for galaxy coolant pump brushes.

[SilverBeast]

Try Fuse 12 in the fuse box by the drivers right knee

[Galaxy23]

I have ordered some brushes from a very helpful person called Keith who works for muchmoreracing.com, contact no 01207 239357. They are modified long life motor  brushes and are 5mmx5mmx10mm in size and are

[Yozza]

Hi folks,

 

My missus is warm but now stressed as she feels that she now drives a bat mobile due to the impressive smoke screen.  The heater starts up and seems to go through a sequence blowing good clear exhaust and then minutes later will be bellowing whit smoke, much to my wife's frustration (to be honest, I'm now going to address this problem because I borrowed the car today and wen to fill up with fuel, the attendant stopped the diesel pump as I was filling due to the white smoke bellowing).

 

Any ideas?

 

I have bought a VCDS cable but having laptop problems.

 

Cheerz

[gregers]

yep read up on the numerous threads/posts on this subject as it could well be 1 of many things wrong with your unit.