Maf Question

[jim prong]

Would anyone happen to know what the resistance of the resistor in the sensor unit is? I've checked mine and it appears to be open circuit. My son has a Sharon, and I can check that, but not for a few days, in the meantime I thought I'd ask.

 

Thanks in advance.

[Scorpiorefugee]

I think it's a bit more complicated than that. Reading between the lines it seems that you both have similar vehicles so why not just swap the MAFs over or put the suspect one in the good vehicle? I know that the MAFs in the MKI 110 and the MKII 115s are interchangeable so the whole diesel range probably is.

 

The effects of MAF failure are much more severe in the MKII

Edited November 11, 2013 by Scorpiorefugee

[jim prong]

I think it's a bit more complicated than that. Reading between the lines it seems that you both have similar vehicles so why not just swap the MAFs over or put the suspect one in the good vehicle? I know that the MAFs in the MKI 110 and the MKII 115s are interchangeable so the whole diesel range probably is.

 

The effects of MAF failure are much more severe in the MKII

Yeah, it looks like the "resistor" is not what it seems. I've tried a Skoda one on there (same Bosch unit) and its much the same. I dont know how good the one I've tried is though. Swapping the one from my sons car looks like the best option as I know that one is good.

 

I'm just going to my mates garage to see what fault codes show up. If its not the MAF, it seems, from this forum, there are lots of things to check, EGR, coked up turbo ETC, so I might have to go down that road on the weekend. Any info on the Innotec Diesel Turbo Cleaner? If I do have to go down that route, I might just remove the turbo and clean it. I have access to a car lift, and a full set of snap-on tools on weekends, so it might be cheaper, and certainly more educational. 

[jim prong]

Yeah, it looks like the "resistor" is not what it seems. I've tried a Skoda one on there (same Bosch unit) and its much the same. I dont know how good the one I've tried is though. Swapping the one from my sons car looks like the best option as I know that one is good.

 

I'm just going to my mates garage to see what fault codes show up. If its not the MAF, it seems, from this forum, there are lots of things to check, EGR, coked up turbo ETC, so I might have to go down that road on the weekend. Any info on the Innotec Diesel Turbo Cleaner? If I do have to go down that route, I might just remove the turbo and clean it. I have access to a car lift, and a full set of snap-on tools on weekends, so it might be cheaper, and certainly more educational. 

I've been under the car since the above post and it looks like the wastegate actuator is seized, as iit only moves about 1/8 of an inch.

 

I shall look elsewhere for a fix.

 

Thanks.

[chrislloydie]

What are your symptoms? Lack of power? Poor running?

[jim prong]

What are your symptoms? Lack of power? Poor running?

Aye, no power above 2000 RPM. The wastegate actuator seems to be seized. I've put a vacuum pump on there, and tried pushing and pulling at it, but it only moves about 3 or 4 mm.

 

I'm going to put it on a lift on Saturday, and see if I can free it up with some WD40, unless there are other suggestions.

[jim prong]

I've had no luck getting any more movement out of it. The wastegate actuator arm seems quite free, as when the vacuum pump is operated, I can move the arm slightly as there is a bit of backlash in the connecting arm. I can only assume its the bellows bit which is seized. the car was not moved for almost two years, and lots of bits were seized. I may post a new thread as the subject has changed from the original one.

 

Thanks anyhow.

Edited November 18, 2013 by jim prong

[seatkid]

Presumably you have a mk2.

 

Its not a waste gate on your turbo but a variable vane mechanism located in the turbo - sometimes also called a variable geometry turbo. The seized bit is the mechanism inside - it will be made up with hard carbon. Only way to free it is to strip it down and use aggressive cleaners. Some people have successfully used various commercial turbo cleaners - do a search to found out more.

[xavier]

I've used the innotec and it's been fine for 6 months. To use it you remove the undertray and disconnect the turbo from the front flexi pipe to inject the stuff in. A bit easier than removing and stripping down the exhaust side of the turbo however if you've got access to those sorts of tools I'd probably go for the full monty, especially if you have an impact gun to get the bolts out the turbo. There's a strip-down guide on this site in the FAQ, though I'd suggest getting a spare oil feed pipe before you start as they can be problematic to get off intact.