Airbag Warning Light

[kaped]

Hallo.

I have a Ford galaxy 2,3 from 98.

The airbag light is on all the time.

I have lokkede for the wires under the drivers seat, but i

can only find a little box, which i think is for heat in the front seat.

Anybody knows where too find the wires for the airbag?

 

[gazmech]

Central console on the floor.

[kaped]

Is under the carpet? i have looked today, and there is carpert glued to the floor. I am hoping for a loose connection in the wire. Before i had a mondeo, and there was a plug under the drivers seat, and some times it came appart and then the airbag light went on. Or is in the big plastic consol where the gear shift is?

[gazmech]

Mine is on the floor under the carpet.

[viperclive]

Mine is on top of tunnel, just infront of ashtray bolted to top of tunnel but hidden by plastic moulding.

[seatkid]

What are you lot on about?

 

A 98 model only has steering wheel and passenger airbags (and seatbelt tensioners in the B pillars)

 

The usual reason for airbag light is due to problems with the clock spring in the steering wheel.

 

Once the airbag light is lit, it can only be reset with diagnostics i.e. VCDS/VAGCOM. Access to the diagnositics plug is by pulling out the front central ashtray.

[gazmech]

Mines already been on a computer and comes up with B+ voltage low. He wanted to know where the module is located.

[brett]

i had a similar problem with my Mk 2 tdi ,it came up as low battery when testing it ,fitted new battery had the fault code removed and the lights now out

[MartinWindsurf]

I did a cheat - I took the instrument console out, found the cell that holds only the airbag warning light and filled it with black foam.

 

I know this means I am driving without airbag protection, but it's an old high mileage Galaxy and I didn't fancy a 1,000 pound repair bill from a Ford garage, and my 2 local small garages have backed off trying to repair it for me.

[MartinWindsurf]

Important point - it sailed through the MOT like this. I believe they now have to fail the car with any visible safety warning lights (nb: I'm not planning to sell it to anyone, aiming to drive it myself till it's last gasp).

[gregers]

could be wrong but i think you will find that if its doesnt light up they could well fail it anyway.

[insanitybeard]

As Gregers says, if the vehicle obviously has airbags fitted (and lets be honest, airbags are always plainly 'labelled' inside the vehicle) then the system will have a warning lamp which should illuminate when you switch on the ignition and then go out after a few seconds if there are no faults present. By covering or removing the warning lamp so it is not visible at all, a tester cannot determine if the system is working as intended, so if your MOT tester/ garage said this was ok and legal then I'm afraid they've been lying to you, or they've not carried out the test properly, Let's be honest, I'm sure exactly the same thing happens daily across the country, but that doesn't mean that it's legal, or proper procedure! 

Edited May 1, 2014 by insanitybeard

[simmons-mob]

Can anybody help? I have a 1999 Galaxy Mk1 2.3. I have the dreaded airbag light on. Diagnostics indicate that driver's airbag resistance too high. Reset - error comes back, light still on. Replaced clockspring. Reset error - no change. Replaced driver's airbag. Reset error - no change.

 

So now I'm on to the wiring. Battery disconnected, airbags removed. Continuity from module connector to drivers airbag terminals ok but I notice I'm getting a reading of 1.5 ohms between the two wires. (Pins 10 and 11 on module connector) Diagram indicates there is nothing else in line so as a reference tried checking the connections to the passenger airbag. This gives a reading of 0.5 ohms between the two wires.

 

Does anybody know why I am getting a reading between the two wires on each side and if this is correct? If this is correct can anybody suggest what to try next? Airbag module maybe?

[BrianH]

the only option i can think you have is to find the other end of the wires and see what their resistance is end to end when disconnected from the loom. 1.5 isn't particually high though so i wonder if the fault lies elsewhere. I've used a resistor to prove which part of mine was at fault before it would be an easy test to do if you can find one of the right value (put resistor in circuit and perform reset see if it clears).

 

Were the ones you used to replace known to be good ones? The first clock spring i got off ebay was useless so if its used then it may be that causing your issue. I found it was difficult to sensibly test the clock spring anyway as it will tend to break in a way that shows as intermittent rather than consistant due to the ribbon cables used and the movement involved.

[BrianH]

Also be very wary of where your prodding with the multimeter around the airbag system as you don't want to accidently set them off!

[simmons-mob]

End to end - control module to socket that fits onto airbag - resistance is negligible 0.1 ohm, which is what I was expecting. That also proves continuity through the clock spring. I also went back and checked the original clock spring which checked out ok. I'm still puzzled by the 1.5 ohm between the two wires which as far as I can see from the circuit diagram shouldn't be there. Incidently the 1.5 ohms is there with the clock spring disconnected as well. I did wonder if that was causing it, but no.

 

 

I was wary enough to remove both airbags before getting the meter in there.

[BrianH]

It doesn't sound clockspring like as it normally mentions intermittent in the wording if its that causing the problem. I recall when i had mine apart there is a metal clip that shorts the contacts, but i think this is on the clock sping side of the connector. Without another to compare to i don't know what to suggest, but maybe a trip to the scrapyard with the multimeter is in order?

 

Is the error any different with the clockspring disconnected and a reset done? It may be a faulty ecu as theres not really much else left besides the wires as you already know. unless one of the connectors in there is not making good contact with the clock spring conacts maybe, but i suspect you've already checked that.

[mrben]

Erm...What is a clock spring? Is it possible I've damaged it when replacing steering rack? (as airbag light has come on) thanks

[BrianH]

its the bit that allows the airbag to be connected behind the steering wheel (the bag being in the centre of the wheel needs to stay connected whilst the wheel turns back and forth). the cable coils and uncoils as you rotate the steering wheel.

 

They do seem prone to failure on the Galaxy - though i would guess if you've got the wheel back in place with it misaligned far enough that you might have managed to stretch it in some way? I've not known them to fail on any other vehicle I've had.

 

I'd suggest you scan it with VCDS - as it may be something else causing the issue (it relates to seat belt pretnesioners and any other airbags you may have as well). Also once the light has come on, even if you fix the issue the light stays on till its reset anyway.

 

Example of clock spring > http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORD-GALAXY-AIR-BAG-SQUIB-SRS-CLOCK-SPRING-STEERING-WHEEL-2004-1J0-959-653-E-/271910194649

 

It looks like a long spiral of cable inside, like the kind of springs you'd get in mechanical clocks etc just somewhat bigger.

[mrben]

Hi Brian. Many thanks indeed for all that info. I can almost guarantee that I have broken the wire, as I turned the wheel right around and heard a chonk. Is it easy to get to for me to inspect/change? As always, many thanks.

[BrianH]

Yes - you remove the steering wheel and its on the back. Theres a few screws in the back of the wheel that hold the airbag to the wheel remove those you should then be able to remove the bag itself.

Once you have the bag out theres a large nut that holds the wheel in place - remove that, then remove steering wheel and you should see it. From what you've said its snapped the clock spring by the sounds of it (over tightened it by turning too far)

 

I'd suggest your best to disconnect the battery first and give it 10-20 minutes before tackling the airbag removal, and leave the airbag somewhere out of the way just in case. When your reconnecting it it would also be advisable to have any tools well out of the way just in case (you don't want the screwdriver in your hand getting launched towards you or anyone else in the event it does go off)

 

You still need vcds to reset the light though one way or another (lite version will do this)

[gregers]

yep take heed of the above.

[mrben]

Many thanks again Brian, and gregers. Its gonna be a while before I get to tackle it, but I will let you know how it went etc. Cheers.