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Posted

I've got a gunson bleeder used for the rear caliper, for flaring tools it looks like you get what you pay for. Kicking myself though as a month ago I paid for the Focus to get 3 pipes done, figured at

Posted

I've used the Sykes Pickavant flaring tool in my days at the garage, good piece of kit- it was even up to flaring steel pipes! I don't think I'd bother with those cheap 30 odd quid kits you see- like you say, you get what you pay for!

Posted (edited)

Yes, 3/16".

 

The only cheap flaring tool worth buying is a copy of the old one I use - search fleabay for a Franklin AF2003. I know someone who has one of these, and it works just as well as mine. The other cheap ones, particularly the ones with the horseshoe shaped yoke, are junk.

 

Once you have the knack of using it, they make really good flares. Practice a bit on scrap copper until you get the hang of it.

 

It's not designed for it, but I have done steel flares with my old one - if you cut the pipe accurately, are very careful, and use LOTS of grease.

Edited by sparky Paul
Posted

I was looking at the powerhand ones for about

Posted (edited)

The ball joint and arm are nigh on impossible to do with the car on the ground (no idea how they do the ball joint even with a ramp as you can't get a socket in there with the wheel on), so measure the distance from the wheel arch to the hub nut, and before torquing up use a jack to bring the arm and hub up to the correct position (the position it would be in on the ground with wheel on) before final tightening.

 

The only one that needs to be tightened with the wheel on the ground is the bolt through the front bush. Not necessary for the rear and balljoint, they can be fully tightened with the wheel off.

 

IIRC you can get a long extension to the front bolt with the car on the ground.

Edited by sparky Paul
Posted

Hmm. Mr Haynes seems to suggest the bolt for the balljoint needs done on the ground, I'll yield to your superior knowledge though as since that's what I ended up doing it makes me feel better! Couldn't really see how an extension would help me when I was under there, though I do think a finer tooth mech on my torque wrench would have helped. With the front bolt, wasnt sure about the torque then 90 deg as that's a stretch bolt, and suggested to me it should be replaced.

 

Oh, checked the car over after it came back, it's away back to the garage to get the brake pipe routing modified, some bright spark when deciding to not use the pre-drilled brake pipe holes routed the pipes under the chassis, then wondered why the undertray didn't go back flush.

Posted

Hmm. Mr Haynes seems to suggest the bolt for the balljoint needs done on the ground, I'll yield to your superior knowledge though as since that's what I ended up doing it makes me feel better! Couldn't really see how an extension would help me when I was under there, though I do think a finer tooth mech on my torque wrench would have helped. With the front bolt, wasnt sure about the torque then 90 deg as that's a stretch bolt, and suggested to me it should be replaced.

 

I guess you could under-tighten the balljoint taper if it wasn't properly seated, but so long as you make sure it is, it shouldn't be a problem.

 

Not sure, but I don't think the wishbone bolts are stretch bolts - at least Ford don't say to replace them. I suspect the angle tightening requirement is because the inner bushes deform on tightening.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 6 months later...
Posted

I had a 50% off MOT at Halfrauds.

 

Massive list of failures and advisories that they would fix for a mere £1500. The car is my 2008 ex company car that was serviced by fords from new.

 

Amongst the list was two new headlights as they said they were emitting european beams...

 

Paid full price for a second MOT down the road straight afterwards.. it passed..

 

Just had it re-mot'd this year, nowhere near a halfords, but it didnt stop their call centre badgering me to take another half price MOT... no need to say i told them each time where to go.

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