2004 Tdi 130 Manual Fuse Box/body Control Module

[stumilne]

Hi, need some assistance please.

 

2004 53 plate TDI 130 has failed spectacularly. Wouldn't start then it suddenly did after a half hour.  Sensors tell me driver door is open when driving.  Left indicator started blinking and will not stop. Windows went down and won't go up.  Switched off engine and removed key - engine ran for another 10 minutes! Auto spark has diagnosed it as faulty BCM/fuse box.

 

Part number 7M3962258AD.  £850 new from Ford!!

 

Looking on ebay there are several variations - the same number but not AD at the end.  

 

Question is will a module with AH, L, M etc work on my car.

 

Have been advised that it must be from a 2003 manual vehicle.

 

Any advice?

 

Thanks in advance.

[bigdave982]

Broken door wires cause magnificent electrical failures check these first

[seatkid]

Agreed - check door/tailgate wires in rubber gaitors - see Tech Faq's for pictures etc.

 

As a first step, disconnect the battery positive terminal for 30 seconds and reconnect - this will reset the ECU. (You will also lose the radio coding so make sure you have the radio code before you do this - its usually on a sticker in the service booklet)

 

You should disconnect the battery if you are repairing any wiring......

 

You have one or more short circuits thats need to be tracked down. Faulty fuse box? - Lazy auto spark more like! Fuse boxes dont short out circuits.....its either a problem in a wiring loom or sometimes the spade connectors fall off the back of the fuse carriers although I think this is not likely in this case.

 

Water logged electrics is another possibilty although unlikely on 2003 model.

[SilverBeast]

Also check the Battery Junction Box (search the forum for pictures).  This is a black box at the front of the engine bay under the battery cover. The fat horizontally challenged red wire from the battery goes to it.  Open the cover and check for overheating of the top one or two fuse links that the other red wires go to.  This is a common problem due to poor crimps.  See here for details.

 

It does sound mostly like Drivers Door gaitor wires to me though, particularly as all the windows came down - same as if you hold the key in the unlock position in the door!

 

If it wouldn't start for 30 minutes your battery is likely to have been low, and low voltages have been seen to cause all sorts of gremlins.

[stumilne]

Thanks guys.  an update.

 

Spark was adamant fuse box was blown - got one off ebay and it's fixed the windows!

 

Indicator is still blinking constantly so it seems a more comprehensive strip down is required than just the gaiters to find the short circuit(s).

 

Don't know if it's worth mentioning but I used a plug in tyre inflator in the power outlet on the Friday night just before all the faults started on the Saturday.  It was only for 2 or 3 minutes but I didn't run the engine!  Coincidence?

 

Thanks