Vag Com Problems

[ianbin2012]

Hi, have just bought an ebay special kkl vag com lead problem is when connecting it to my pc and running vag com software, i hit the test button it says ross tech interface not found.

I have tried all the ports and usb but it will not work.

Has anyone else had similar problems and does anybody know how to get it to work.

[sparky Paul]

Which software are you using?

 

For the ebay cables, you need VCDS-Lite from the Ross-Tech site, or an old version of VAG-COM which is compatible.

[alan_131]

You might have already read it - you've certainly already done some of what it covers - but there's this in the FAQ http://www.fordgalax...4798#entry84798

 

Possibly worth trying to update the drivers via windows, otherwise my inclination would be to download a fresh copy of the latest vcds-lite from ross-tech and the drivers from the cable chip manufacturers (ftdi probably - http://www.ftdichip....Drivers/VCP.htm), then uninstall and reinstall.

 

VCDS is a bit old-fashioned when it comes to usb, (covered in the FAQ above). If you need to come back, might be worth giving the version of windows you're using.

Good luck!

Edited July 23, 2012 by alan_131

[ianbin2012]

Thanks for the replies, i`am using vcds lite 409.1 downloaded directly from ross tech website forgot to add when the lead is plugged into usb the red l.e.d on the lead lights up so the lead must be powering up, just can`t seem to get the software to reccognise it.

I will try the older version of the software and see if it works.

[SilverBeast]

It's mentioned the link above from alan_131 but

(i) Have you made sure the lead has been assigned to one of COM ports 1 to 4 in Windows Device Manager?

(ii) That the same number has been set in the software? VAG-COM Version 409.1 or VCDS-Lite Version 1.1, both from Ross-Tech

 

What operating system are you using?

Did you install the drivers that came with the lead? I have had had driver issues as I use both VAG-COM/VCDS-Lite lead and VAG-Tacho and they seem to want different versions of the FTDI drivers. The latest versions from FTDI won't neccesarily work depending on your OS

[ianbin2012]

Hi, thanks to you guys ive got the lead working, so i ran a full scan and was very suprised that it only came up with one fault.

The fault it came up with explains the running issues.

 

Fault found: 00553

Mass air flow sensor(g70)

31-10- open or short to ground-intermittent

 

Now the thing is does this mean the MAF is knackered or on the way out or does it mean that there is some dogy wiring in the engine loom?

 

Also tried scanning the speedo cluster because it is playing silly buggers but it kept saying controller not responding and a clicking noise coming from the ecu.

So i take it that the clocks are no good?

Once again any help would very much appreciated.

[biturbo.s4]

Hi, thanks to you guys ive got the lead working, so i ran a full scan and was very suprised that it only came up with one fault.

The fault it came up with explains the running issues.

 

Fault found: 00553

Mass air flow sensor(g70)

31-10- open or short to ground-intermittent

 

Now the thing is does this mean the MAF is knackered or on the way out or does it mean that there is some dogy wiring in the engine loom?

 

Also tried scanning the speedo cluster because it is playing silly buggers but it kept saying controller not responding and a clicking noise coming from the ecu.

So i take it that the clocks are no good?

Once again any help would very much appreciated.

 

Id suggest just a fault maf.

 

What is happening exactly with speedo cluster??

[ianbin2012]

With the speedo when you turn on the ignition but not starting the engine the speedo lights up, when you start the engine the speedo lights flicker the needles jump around and the glow plug light and the airbag light are lit but very dim.

The mileage and trip meter work fine, when this is happening there is a clicking noise coming from ecu but when i disconnected the cluster it stopped.

[biturbo.s4]

Mine is crap too!!

When you switch ignition off needles stick at position they are at. When you switch ignition back on they flicker and jump back down to zero. Also temp guage fluctuates, and red lcd display is dim its barely readable.

Oh and clock and trip reset everytime you start the car :40:

 

Back to yours stick a new maf on. Try Euro car parts or ebay for a bosch one.

[ianbin2012]

Thanks for the info i`ll stick a new maf on run vag-com again and let you know the outcome.

With the speedo will a set of clocks from a tdi sharan fit i know they have got two connectors on the back compared to mine which has one, i think the second connector is for bulb failure on door open warning panel.

[alan_131]

Duff MAF certainly stuffs things up and it probably is the MAF but being extremely stingy/impoverished if it was me now you've got a working lead I'd clear the codes and then see if they come back, maybe try logging maf measuring blocks and check the wiring first. I think any time it's been run with the cable off (for the old "is it better unplugged" test maybe ) - would cause something like this code to be logged.

[ianbin2012]

Ok job done i fitted a secondhand maf from a 1.9 tdi golf belive it or not it had the same part numbers, so that`s another donor vehicle added to the list, anyway fitted the maf and the running issue is sorted not bad for 3 quid from the local scrappy.

Back to the speedo when the fuel tank is over half full the clocks behave themselves but as soon as it drops below half they go mental again, now i`m really confused.

[alan_131]

Good news about the MAF One down....

 

 

Haynes shows the mk1 instrument cluster functional earth on pin1, but interestingly has the earth for the fuel sensor (and coolant level and temp sensor) on the same earth point (E7). it says this is lh engine bulkhead(pre-99) and lh rear engine (post 99).

 

May be completely irrelevant , but fwiw...

[ianbin2012]

Ok thanks for that i will take a look tomorrow to see if the earth point is good i will also check the fuel gauge sender in the tank to see if that faulty somehow.

Once again thanks for the help.

[alan_131]

You've probably seen it already but if not I wonder if biturbo.s4's result might apply to your car too?

[ianbin2012]

No i have not seen that one, where about`s is it?

[alan_131]

This is the topic I meant. ... If you look towards the end you'll see that Chrispb123456 put his finger on the problem first suggestion and biturbo.s4 has explored and posted successful outcome. It fits your problem symptoms quite closely (apart from the fuel gauge's role) but I think it's definately worth a look. Does this sound like it could be what's happening with your cluster - when the gauge is high, resistance is high, the current drawn by it from the cluster is lower and the cluster has enough to work properly. When it gets low, it pulls enough current to drop the cluster voltage because the supply to cluster is restricted by an iffy connection. Same applies sort of if earth is duff and current flows are misbehaving. Anyway, lots of waffle but see what you think. Edited July 28, 2012 by alan_131

[ianbin2012]

Ok done what it said on the tin took out kick panel and glove box checked all wiring , all seems ok now gone onto drivers side and also checking tank sender wires back to gauge.

[ianbin2012]

Ok followed wires back to fuel tank both wires ok, disconnected plug to tank sender instrument cluster still not right, measured voltage at wiring plug with engine off 11.06 volts with engine running 14.60 volts why is there a voltage change should it not be constant.

[ianbin2012]

Also when you turn the ignition switch to the on position but without starting the engine should the instrument cluster illuminate even with the lights turned off?

[biturbo.s4]

Try the connection in the passenger footwell!

[seatkid]

Also when you turn the ignition switch to the on position but without starting the engine should the instrument cluster illuminate even with the lights turned off?

Yes this was standard in models up to the 1998 rehash.

[alan_131]

Sorry missed your post re voltage/panel lights.

Can I ask where exactly you were measuring the voltages (between where live and where earth).

Assuming this is an unregulated feed to the panel and I'd say from the voltages you're reading that and my haynes wiring diagram it is, it's normal for the voltages to vary between engine running and not, though your not running 11.06v sounds rather low. Is this the same as battery voltage measured at the battery?

 

 

I need to change some of the bulbs in mine (gave some to someone the other day and not replaced them yet) but what I have left only light up when I turn the lights on and I think this is a clue. However just to complicate things I found this old post http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/15010-dash-lights/ which says different.

Edit : ah - see I was wrong - thank you seatkid.

Do you have door open/bulb failure on your car? Edit: think you don't. Must read more carefully.

Edited July 29, 2012 by alan_131

[ianbin2012]

I was taking the voltages from the fuel tank sender plug purple/black feed wire, brown ground wire anyway just to throw a spanner in the works filled up the car today so the needle was above the halfway mark this time it made no difference cluster still acting up.

So it`s not the fuel gauge sender, back to square one.

No ,no open door warning panel just a single red block connector into rear of cluster.

Edited July 29, 2012 by ianbin2012

[biturbo.s4]

Try the connection in the passenger footwell!

 

Four or five screws, pull door seal up and out of the way, and see if rear window, washer hose is connected properly. Also check under soundproofing see if it is damp.

Then pull wires up below belt pretensioner, cut off the outer tape, and find the splice of red/white wires. Should be two lots of 5-8 wires crimped together and joined with one small red/white wire.

 

Worth a pop no?