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Posted

Hi All

My 99 built tdi 110 is very noisy, and vcds show the timing is advanced (4.4 deg BTDC) at warm idle. Also getting start of injection deviation codes.

 

Hoping to fix the noise, and because I've read advanced timing can be bad for your engine, I thought I'd try adjusting the mechanical timing by shifting the fuel pump. I'd read up and it sounded easy enough - remove top cover from cambelt by two clips, loosen bolts, move pump, check, do it again a couple of dozen times until I'd got it right.

 

Fell at the first hurdle. I can't get the cover off - it seems - though I can't see well -to have an engine mounting through the middle of it. I did find a post here where somebodyelse had the same problem and ended up with the mount off/on a load of times - post doesn't say engine type. Ebay has pics of top cover (ALH) that look like they split above where mount would be and some sites talk about top middle bottom but I can't feel a join.

 

Does anybody know please

Am I missing something with the cover or do I really have to drop the mount? (I don't have any engine type info as all the stickers are missing, but it's supposed to be a 110. engine number appears to begin 03 - but very hard to read. Not sure it's original. it has a white (catch?) bottle in the pipe from the crankcase to cam cover breather.

 

Is 4.4 deg enough to cause damage?

If it's out this much, is that likely just to be adjustment not done on the pump or is it enough for belt to be a tooth out?

(Main dealer did the belt about 4K ago, before I got the car)

 

What's the range the cold start solenoid can change the timing by? I know I shouldn't have too big a duty cycle at idle, but if it can change it by more than it needs I'll aim to get the mechanical retarded rather than advanced.

 

Sorry for such a long post. If anybody can help with all/any of these I'd be really grateful. Off on holiday on Monday...

Posted (edited)

I could be wrong but my conclusion was also that the engine mount needs to be removed in order to remove the cover - stupid, I know. The engine needs to be supported when removing the mount, thats what the big eye on the top of the block is for.

 

Check the wiring that goes to injector no.3 - thats the needle lift sensor. Its not uncommon to have broken wiring at the connector located down the wire and this f**ks up the timing. However you would also likely see an error on Vcds.

Edited by seatkid
Posted
Thank you - nice to know I'm not just missing something - it wouldn't be the first time. I'll check the wiring as you suggest, though from what I can see from vcds it's sort of consistently out - actual is in advance of requested till revs get high, then the duty cycle goes up and the actual and requested get into line. Agree design seems barking mad - makes the job about 10 times harder on a Galaxy than Golf or Passat with essentially the same engine....

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