Egr Valve

[dix]

Hi,My mil light came on so i put my code reader onto the car & the fault was the egr valve (needing a spring clean) so my polish fitter friend said he would do it so i left it with him while i did some other work on the car, he cleaned it up (heavy carbon) refitted the valve, started the engine, ok for approx 5 secs then it would cut out, he removed the valve about 5 times trying to set it up but couldnt, he does not know if there was a tension spring against the piston because the car will run if the orifice is blocked off so what is happening is that the piston is blocking the orifice but once the engine has fired up the the pressure of the exhaust gasses push the piston fully open & the engine cuts out, i cant get a detailed description of the valve internaly as Ford only show the egr as 1 complete unit with manifold so i am at a loss as to setting up of the valve & internal components, any help pls ?

2006 MK3 GALAXY 1.8 TDCI 91K ON THE CLOCK

[buford_t_justice]

Hi,My mil light came on so i put my code reader onto the car & the fault was the egr valve (needing a spring clean) so my polish fitter friend said he would do it so i left it with him while i did some other work on the car, he cleaned it up (heavy carbon) refitted the valve, started the engine, ok for approx 5 secs then it would cut out, he removed the valve about 5 times trying to set it up but couldnt, he does not know if there was a tension spring against the piston because the car will run if the orifice is blocked off so what is happening is that the piston is blocking the orifice but once the engine has fired up the the pressure of the exhaust gasses push the piston fully open & the engine cuts out, i cant get a detailed description of the valve internaly as Ford only show the egr as 1 complete unit with manifold so i am at a loss as to setting up of the valve & internal components, any help pls ?

2006 MK3 GALAXY 1.8 TDCI 91K ON THE CLOCK

 

Don't you have to replace the gasket when removing and refitting the EGR valve? Maybe the lack of a poor seal is causing the engine to cut out so quickly?

 

Do you have any tips/photos on removing the EGR? I would like to have a look at mine but it's position at the back of the engine makes it look impossible for me to get to without carrying out some major surgery unless the 1.8 engine has it in a more convenient location?

Edited September 29, 2011 by buford_t_justice

[dix]

Hi,My mil light came on so i put my code reader onto the car & the fault was the egr valve (needing a spring clean) so my polish fitter friend said he would do it so i left it with him while i did some other work on the car, he cleaned it up (heavy carbon) refitted the valve, started the engine, ok for approx 5 secs then it would cut out, he removed the valve about 5 times trying to set it up but couldnt, he does not know if there was a tension spring against the piston because the car will run if the orifice is blocked off so what is happening is that the piston is blocking the orifice but once the engine has fired up the the pressure of the exhaust gasses push the piston fully open & the engine cuts out, i cant get a detailed description of the valve internaly as Ford only show the egr as 1 complete unit with manifold so i am at a loss as to setting up of the valve & internal components, any help pls ?

2006 MK3 GALAXY 1.8 TDCI 91K ON THE CLOCK

 

Don't you have to replace the gasket when removing and refitting the EGR valve? Maybe the lack of a poor seal is causing the engine to cut out so quickly?

 

Do you have any tips/photos on removing the EGR? I would like to have a look at mine but it's position at the back of the engine makes it look impossible for me to get to without carrying out some major surgery unless the 1.8 engine has it in a more convenient location?

[dix]

Hi,No photos, its quite easy to remove the valve leccy plug off & 4 torx bolts,i have got the car to run by blanking off the pipe but cos my friend hasnt got it reassembled correctley internaly then my mil light comes on, i can clear the light but only for a day or two,it runs better with the blanked pipe & shows a fuel return of 47/51 mpg @ a max speed of 65/70 mph

Cheers

[GaryM]

Just had the same. MIL light came on. Took it down the local garage and they reset it saying it was related to the EGR valve. Having done over 156K thought I'd better take a look...

 

http://www.morban.co.uk/MiscImages/EGR.JPG

 

Valve is located above the cam cover behind the oil filler. It is held on by 4 large torx and on smaller to a bracket on the valve actuator. Also found a broken support bracket to a pipe behind which you can see. So had to make that good while there.

 

With it off the problem was immediately obvious. The pin that is turned to lift the valve had snapped and the bits I assume jamed the valve.

 

http://www.morban.co.uk/MiscImages/EGRPin.JPG

 

Anyone know if I can get just the pin? The valve moves freely and the pin has snapped where it is thinner because of a circlip locating groove.

 

I have reinstalled the remaining half as there is no obvious way it can come out when the actuator is reinstalled. Just means all the lifting force is one side of the mech.

[GaryM]

I have since rebuilt the dumbell (as it were) by getting some brass tube from a model shop and cutting that down in to three sections separated by washers. Then it is all held together by a long 3mm screw and nut with the bearings at either end.

 

I would have loved to remove the inlet manifold to clean it all down but there seems to be two bolts that are covered by the exhaust manifold so suddenly I'd end up having to remove that, the link to the cat and the turbo, a bit beyond me at home. Unless anyone has any bright ideas of how to remove the last two bolts?

 

However I did find the cause of exhaust smells in the cabin at start up. The exhasut manifold has snapped one of the studs. I have tried drilling it out in situ to no avail. Looks like a big bill to get it all sorted by the village garage :-(

[gregers]

However I did find the cause of exhaust smells in the cabin at start up. The exhasut manifold has snapped one of the studs. I have tried drilling it out in situ to no avail. Looks like a big bill to get it all sorted by the village garage :-(

 

what drill bits are you using,best to use cobalt bits.then a stud extractor.

[GaryM]

To be fair I was using the bits I had, nothing special, Titanium coated (well they were). And some cheap stud extractors from screwfix that buckled on first use. I already had to buy a right angled drill adaptor just to get in there.

 

I would certainly be easier to access if I could get the inlet manifold off