Fitting Aftermarket Remote Central Locking Unit

[brasso]

Hi,

 

I don't know whether anyone can help me out, I've recently acquired a V Reg, 99' Galaxy LX 1.9 TDI one of the annoyances I have found so far is the lack of remote central locking. So I have brought an aftermarket universal remote central locking unit a Hawk HA-008.

 

I've tried, unsuccessfully, to fit it today and could do with a little help. I wondered if anyone on here has done this before and where they located the unit. I only have a little experience in car electrics and would like to know exactly what I am doing before I attempt it again.

 

I saw a previous posting from someone with a mkii who said that they put theirs under the passenger seat. I tried this but could not find any wires to tap into, except those running underneath the door and I didn't want to disturb these until I knew they were the right ones. Another old posting suggested taking the wires from behind the fuse box, I tried this as well but I couldn't get to them and I couldn't get the fusebox to come out as described in the other post.

 

Having looked in the manual Manual this suggests that I need the following wires:

 

Main power input from constant power wire min 15Amp

+12V from the ignition, powered only when the ignition is on.

Ground

2 wires from the existing central locking.

 

Any help or constructive suggestions that anyone could give me would be greatfully received.

 

Many thanks

[Mirez]

There is a sence that auto-electrics are easy (and to a point it is) but the risk of electrical fire is high when you don't know what you are doing so first up, well done for stopping!

 

You'll need to locate the unit somewhere you have space, which is probably why people have gone for under the seat - some other locations would be above the airbag controller (against the bulkhead, between the two footwells) or in behind the glovebox.

 

Wiring wise, a permanent 12V will be tricky to find within the cabin as the central controller will knock power off to most circuits 10 minutes after the car is locked. There is a permanent feed to the box which you could tap off but my preference would be to go back to the battery direct - ensure the fuse is as close to the "tap" point as possible else it defeats the point. The ground point can be any of the multiple points located around the car or you could made your own if you really wanted, you dont use another circuits ground wire but always go to the ground points. There is one under the passenger seat, under the drivers seat, and behind the sound deadening at the bottom of each A pillar (to name a few). Finally the two wires for the existing central locking will be best tapped from either the passenger door wiring (again, remove the deadening from the passenger footwell and look up to the left of the glovebox) or behind the lower B pillar cover for the rear door's wiring. The latter will be significantly easier to wire to depending if the wires you need are there (I didn't have time to read your manual link).

 

Make sure you have a decent multimeter and double check all the wiring before making the connections. - Good luck!

[sparky Paul]

I reckon the best place for a remote locking module is in the compartment at the rear of the car where the jack is situated. The loom to the tailgate is accessible there, and has all the connections you need, from the existing central locking circuit - permanent 12V which feeds the rear lock switch, plus the return open & close for the central locking.

 

You will need to remove the tailgate door card to identify the wires from the rear door lock, then unpick them out of the loom in the car.

 

These kits often come with Scotchlok type connectors, I wouldn't recommend using them. Much better to solder the new wires into the loom without cutting... remove 10mm of insulation from each wire, divide the core strands to make a gap through the middle, insert your new wire, twist and solder. Then tape up with insulating or self-amalgamating tape.

 

Welcome to the forum by the way, and hope this helps.:rolleyes:

Edited June 6, 2011 by sparky Paul

[lewis]

I fitted one of these aftermarket systems to my Mk 1 galaxy a few months back , located it in the jack storage , used the remote locking wires to the fuel cap and ran a permenant 12 v feed from the 12v outlet sockets on the other side of the boot, there is an earth point in the jack compartment for the tailgate loom

[Ghia-X]

Fitting an aftermarket remote kit is very easy on a Galaxy .

 

Ive just put a cheapie Ebay kit on my Mk2 Galaxy , and also a Toad RK30 kit on my Mk1 Galaxy.

 

I wouldnt recommend using the wires that lead to the fuel filler locking unit . Yes your locking kit will work , but it will not activate the Ford alarm , the flashing door LED or the additional deadlocks that are fitted to the car .

 

Its much easier wiring it directly to the MFU / fusebox next to the steering column as you can make the connections there very easily and as a bonus , the wires you need to attach the lock and unlock pulse wires to are in easy to pull out connector blocks on the mfu also.

 

 

The first kit took me about 30 mins to fit , the second one about 15 minutes....

[brasso]

Thanks for all of the very helpful replies.

 

Ghia-X - Its good to find someone that has done this already. Do you know what colour the wires are that I would need from the fuse box or where I can find this info?

I did look at putting it there originally but it was difficult to get in to and there was very little slack on the wires to check things properly. I wanted to be sure that was the correct place before I did anything.

 

I read on one of the posts that someone removed the fusebox to allow better access, I think that was on a mk11 though and I wasn't sure if you could also remove it on a mk1, do you know?

 

Many thanks.

 

Fitting an aftermarket remote kit is very easy on a Galaxy .

 

Ive just put a cheapie Ebay kit on my Mk2 Galaxy , and also a Toad RK30 kit on my Mk1 Galaxy.

 

I wouldnt recommend using the wires that lead to the fuel filler locking unit . Yes your locking kit will work , but it will not activate the Ford alarm , the flashing door LED or the additional deadlocks that are fitted to the car .

 

Its much easier wiring it directly to the MFU / fusebox next to the steering column as you can make the connections there very easily and as a bonus , the wires you need to attach the lock and unlock pulse wires to are in easy to pull out connector blocks on the mfu also.

 

 

The first kit took me about 30 mins to fit , the second one about 15 minutes....

[Flippy]

Did u figure out the colors of the wires?

[BrianH]

Might be worth a look at this topic > [post=http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/25136-universal-remote-central-locking/?hl=locking]http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/25136-universal-remote-central-locking/?hl=locking[/post]

 

I'm waiting for the weather to warm up to try it out on mine

[a18nkd]

hi i just done this with a kit off e-bay i put it behind the fuse box ran a 12v from the battery (fused)  put the earth on the dash frame/earth point and the group of wires at the top middle of the fuse box next to fuse puller follow these around the back of the fuse box and your looking for a gray wire and a green/red wire these are the open and close wires if you wait till the week end i'll put a post and some pic up of how i done it i've been meaning to do it for a while but mine has started playing up engine management light has came on (brake light switch people think) once i've done it this week end i'll put a link on here

Edited March 7, 2013 by a18nkd

[a18nkd]

Try this it might help http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/25311-universal-remote-central-locking-kit-mk1-1998/