andybaz Posted May 8, 2011 Report Posted May 8, 2011 Hi all, where do i start, egnie running rough (misfiring) when 1st start up and appears to smooth out when warm, but not 100%.I plugged in and pulled a load of codes from her: P0300 randon multiple misfireP0306 / 0301 / 0302 / 0304 / 0305 / 0303 - cylinder misfiresP0011 camshaft postition 'A' .... P1116 manufacturer specific autodata description-engine coolant sensorP1103 manufacturer specific autodata description-mass air flow sensor So i need to try again an check airflow an temp sensor operation. Any one else had this problem and what did you find, if i get to the bottom,obvioulsy i'll update here.All views an comments greatly appreiated. Cheers andy Quote
cyborg Posted May 8, 2011 Report Posted May 8, 2011 hi,look for split wires shorting to the coil's either way clear the codes then scan again i had smiluar problem with mine one turned out 3 coils were one way out and one had failed so much that it melted in plug socket . Quote
andybaz Posted May 9, 2011 Author Report Posted May 9, 2011 Erm, where do i start, :) :( ooppss Its a STRAIGHT 6 not a V6, will have to do some more digging to confirm all details as the vin plate is missing form the n/s door pillar and try an locate engine number aswell to clarify. Quote
MrT Posted May 9, 2011 Report Posted May 9, 2011 Erm, where do i start, :) :( ooppss Its a STRAIGHT 6 not a V6, will have to do some more digging to confirm all details as the vin plate is missing form the n/s door pillar and try an locate engine numbas wellell to clarify. All 2.8 Galaxies have been V6 engines, even though the V is a very small angle. Mine is also a 2001 (Mk2) and the early Mk2s had a problem with the coil packs (6 of them, each directly mounted on the spark plugs) breaking down. There were many posts on this around 5-6 years ago including some where I detailed the specific batches of coils that were breaking down. However it would be unusual for all 6 to suddenly go at once, so you could have a crankshaft sensor or sensor wiring issue. Often with recorded errors when cleared they can go away and not re-occur as they were temporary faults or bad readings, so clear the errors and see which ones re-appear. Quote
andybaz Posted May 9, 2011 Author Report Posted May 9, 2011 Hi mr T, just to clarify, a small V angle for the 2.8's, when i popped the bonnet and lifted the plastic cover, i counted 6 inline coil packs and presume this is a STRAIGHT ?, running from left to right (o/s to n/s wing) ?? Clearing the codes may not help, as the car is currently runing misfiring, i fully understand about clearing to start with fresh readings/info.Hoping to see the car again wednesday night. There is no markings on the exterior body panels, simple question ? are there any significant markings or trim etc on the car to say yes a straight 6 or a v6. So the galaxy 2.8i VR6 is a V set up. What set up is the 2.8 24v jus out of curiosity. Thank you to all who have viewedAndy Quote
Amarok Posted May 9, 2011 Report Posted May 9, 2011 (edited) Hi mr T, just to clarify, a small V angle for the 2.8's, when i popped the bonnet and lifted the plastic cover, i counted 6 inline coil packs and presume this is a STRAIGHT ?, running from left to right (o/s to n/s wing) ?? Clearing the codes may not help, as the car is currently runing misfiring, i fully understand about clearing to start with fresh readings/info.Hoping to see the car again wednesday night. There is no markings on the exterior body panels, simple question ? are there any significant markings or trim etc on the car to say yes a straight 6 or a v6. So the galaxy 2.8i VR6 is a V set up. What set up is the 2.8 24v jus out of curiosity. Thank you to all who have viewedAndy Andy,trust us it is a VW VR6 you should have a V6 badge on the tailgate ?? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/VR6_engine will explain in more detail. I was designed that way so they could get a Vee engine mounted transversely in the VW Golf (have you tried to put a Ford cosworth 24v V6 across the car ?, you need a car about 7ft wide and a engine bay 6 ft Long !!) back to your fault,I sounds like a plug or lead going down, i.e. when cold it has a poor spark but when warm starts to perform better, when were the plugs last changed ? I would get good quality plugs first and see if that fixes the problemOk ? Edited May 9, 2011 by Amarok Quote
andybaz Posted May 10, 2011 Author Report Posted May 10, 2011 Cheers Amarok,That link is most usefull, i generally relate v's to the wider traditional angle, my knowledge is toyota ;) ;) , hoping to get the car back 1 night this week to review the situation. Since discovered that the vin plate is missing form the n/s door pillar and the nsr lecky window inop i am told, hence the concenr over engine issue, thank you for the enlightenment. REturn the assistance 1 day if i can, cheers for now, will update on solution as and when. Andy Quote
Amarok Posted May 10, 2011 Report Posted May 10, 2011 Cheers Amarok,That link is most usefull, i generally relate v's to the wider traditional angle, my knowledge is toyota ;) ;) , hoping to get the car back 1 night this week to review the situation. Since discovered that the vin plate is missing form the n/s door pillar and the nsr lecky window inop i am told, hence the concenr over engine issue, thank you for the enlightenment. REturn the assistance 1 day if i can, cheers for now, will update on solution as and when. Andy your welcome I like you have lots of experience of Ford V6 Essex and Cologne V6's so as you I thought it was a straight six the 24 valve versions look very close !I am sure with the help of this forum we can get you running smooth again, these engines are super smooth bud ! Quote
andybaz Posted May 11, 2011 Author Report Posted May 11, 2011 Well, where to start, 1st of all, im a toyota dealer techy :unsure: , cant help it helping others after work hours :ph34r: , so if any one has a toyota problem drop us a pm etc, help where i can. Right the young lady has just left me, when she arrived the car was rinning smooth, abt 90% smooth, as soon as you turn the car off, engine is warm, turn on and restart, its a lumpy tractor for about 3 mile (10ins driving) approx then it smooths out again. I had it runing for about 2 mins outside and no signs of runing smoother. Full service history, a selection of codes stored, cleared them all, checked no codes, started up (engine nice an warm) a lumpy tractor was her phrase not mine.Once started 1 code only, and i am hoping this is causing all the misfire problems. Description on my SO diag machine: 17748 camshaft/crank angle sensor wrong combination of ecu's P1340 (leave to run a while longer then the other codes appear, but if the cam an crank system is faulty then of course im gona get misfires are i :angry: ). Apart from trying a senor, not yet sure of its location under all the plastic in such a compact working area, any other common concern relating to this code? Look forwards to your views folks.Cheers Andy So if you local to me an want a FREE code read (eng,abs,transmission,radio,service reset,climate control,comfort control...... the list is endless), drop us a pm Quote
andybaz Posted May 11, 2011 Author Report Posted May 11, 2011 Done some more digging, i thank you all for your comments, but i did a daft thing.... i had alook in my auto data 2008 book which shows the following ecu systems: galaxy 2.8i vr6 AAA & AMY engines running MOTRONIC M3.8.1galaxy 2.8 24v AYL engine running MOTRONIC ME 7.1 I took a snap shot using my diag tool from the cars ecu, and its running MOTRONIC ME 7.1 G, i appriate what you are all saying, we have no V6 badge on the back, the vinplate is missing, will maybe have to check the engine code against the log book Quote
andybaz Posted May 12, 2011 Author Report Posted May 12, 2011 hi everyone, obvioulsy new to this engine, currently not sure wether this a cambelt or chain system?, baring in mind the code 17748 'camshaft/crank angle sensor', this is the vey 1st code before all the misfire codes, as the car has to be driven a length of time/distance requardless of a hot or cold engine for the misfire to stop/ease off. If camchain system,wandering possible stretch chain - engine does not sound rattly, may be a oil change ? possible clogged sludged oil galleries an chain tensioner, there for requiring the oil pressure to build to operate the chain tensioner correctly, as when you turn the engine off an restart straight away the misfire is there until you have driven a distance again, reguardlesss of a hot or cold engine. If a cambelt system, i would expect a stretched belt but i would not expect the missfire to disappear after a set time etc. off to google the system unless some one can comment here? Trying to picture/understand what sensor has failed if any and look at what else controls it etc. cheers for your views upto now folks Quote
Amarok Posted May 12, 2011 Report Posted May 12, 2011 (edited) Chain system chain strech !, the camshaft sensor will compensate for this but we are talking a strech about the thickness of a hair !have you seen my post about the fuel filter ?have you checked for air leaks and also the Lambda sensor ? Edited May 12, 2011 by Amarok Quote
andybaz Posted May 12, 2011 Author Report Posted May 12, 2011 Hi, just viewed your picture post about fuel filters, will have to take look, no signs of air leaks, the live data on the snap on solus pro is very poor, even reading via eobd, so basically a waste of time with this machine, no freeze frame data available. Currently struggling to get my head round having to run a distance requardless of the engine being hot or cold, ie components breaking down with heat, i appreaite all the help i am recieveing. Think i'll have a chat with the lady an see about plugs an fuel filter an simple check the condtion of the multiplug connection for the camshaft sensor,possibly even remove an look at the tip of the sensor, hoping the sensor is very accessable once the top grey plastci cover is removed Quote
cyborg Posted May 12, 2011 Report Posted May 12, 2011 Thing is all you need is some one to fill with wrong grade oil top up regually with more cheap crap never replace filter and you end up with blocked oilways sticky vavlesand cam timing belt streching and errors galore as you well know.On the mk1 vr6 The cam chain auto adjusters can stick as they as they adjust . causing the chain to work loose vibrate then break the guides then making a very slack chain then they wear the alloy off upper timming cover giving a nasty oil leak above thermostat.One the mk2 they used stronger plastic guides and better positiong of adjuster..... Apparently you can detect chain failure by using vagcom and checking the bdc firing angle the one i did had the oil leek. Although that was a mk1. Quote
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