Water Temperature Gauge On Mark 1 Pegged On Cold

[olehere]

Hi you all,

 

I tried searching for an answer in the FAQ but in my cursory review, I did not find an answer. (I did see some great work on how to change a temperature sensor on a different model, but nothing on a Mark 1).

 

My Galaxy is the 1998 Mark 1 with the 2300 engine. The temperature gauge nevers comes off of cold, not even a smidgen, so I assume that there is something wrong. I suppose there is a sensor somewhere. I suppose there might also be a fuse involved with the temperature gauge. Can anyone give me a reference to work already in the Technical Guide?

 

One other problem as well. The 5 or 6 bulbs in the back door center break light are not coming on at all. Can anyone tell me which fuse it might be on the Mark 1 that I need to check out? (My owners manual is in German.) Is anyone aware of a manual in English, on-line?

 

Also, one more thing. Does the great pollen filter instructions (with pictures I noticed) also apply to the Mark 1? My recollection was that it was done on the Mark 2.

 

I will be gone for a few days but will check back on Friday for any info people are willing to share.

 

Thanks,

Olehere

[seatkid]

Also, one more thing. Does the great pollen filter instructions (with pictures I noticed) also apply to the Mark 1? My recollection was that it was done on the Mark 2.

It applies to both Mk1 and Mk2 and the pictures are from a Mk1

 

Check the wiring in the rear tailgate rubber gaitors - they snap and the insulation drops off - known common problem.

 

Is the engine running cold? In which case the problem may be the thermostat.

[olehere]

Thank you for the prompt reply - I thought I would check before leaving just in case - great tips to check. By the way, I just bought the car and have driven it only a couple of days now.

 

I will check the wiring on the center tail light and look for breaks. I noticed the exposed wiring and looked at the outside and did not see any problems. Do the breaks usually occur in the part of the wiring that you can get to if you unwrap the outside cover? Or could the breaks be further into the car or in the light itself. I assume the breaks would be on the part of the wiring harness that is exposed. That will be where I start.

 

Great news on the pollen filter - I should be able to do the change out quite easily by following the very thorough instructions. Thanks! to whomever did the initial work. One question about air filters. I assume this is a cabin air filter and that there is also an engine filter. I think I see the box on the left side of my engine compartment, just behind the slide up door access to the passenger side head light. I have not yet checked that filter but will probably replace both when I do.

 

I just got an oil change - used synthetic oil to extend the life of the change. The gentlemen that I bought the van from just used 10-30 Castrol (non syn I assume). I have not checked the FAQ's but is there anything wrong with swtching to syn? (2300 engine with 144,000 miles on it.) I hope not... someone a while back said that syn oil will keep the engine cleaner and that you might have gunk coming off the engine affecting its performance. I heard this tale years ago but now am wondering what effect the syn might have that is negative.

 

Thanks for the thought on the thermostat problem. It is possible that the thermostat is the problem. Could I ask the ultimate dumb question and ask which hose entry or exit to the radiator is it located. (Drivers side or passenger side, top or bottom? I have not looked at the radiator yet so I am not sure what to expect. I do note that the fluid level is below the min on the plastic storage bowl. Are you supposed to check the level after the car is warmed up? Sorry for the dumb questions - really a newbie.

 

I would appreciate if anyone has access to where I could get to an on-line manual for the Mark 1. Does anyone ever see an actual manual on e-bay where I could purchase one?

 

Thanks for all the help. You guys are great.

 

Best regards,

Olehere (Retired USA GI Dad making regular visits to Germany for the travel opportunities. I also miss the grand baby.)

[seatkid]

I will check the wiring on the center tail light and look for breaks. I noticed the exposed wiring and looked at the outside and did not see any problems. Do the breaks usually occur in the part of the wiring that you can get to if you unwrap the outside cover? Or could the breaks be further into the car or in the light itself. I assume the breaks would be on the part of the wiring harness that is exposed. That will be where I start.

Carefully pull back the rubber gaitor(s)between the tailgate and body and the problem is usually obvious - broken wires and perished insulation/corroded exposed copper. This happens where the wires flex - the wire used is poor quality and not suitable for its application not to mention not overly generous on length (i.e. tight). It affects the tailgate and all doors and leads to lights/locks/windows/locking not working. Sometimes the exposed wires short and real wierd things happen such as windows opening mysteriously by themselves! There are two threads in the FAQ on the subject.

[viking]

I would stick with 10w 30 semi synthetic oil. As the engine has covered 144k using a thinner oil may make the engine noisy and use oil.

 

You say the temp guage needle does not move at all. If this is the case, then the thermostate is not the cause. Your looking at a faulty temp guage sensor or the wire has droped off. To prove, locate the temp sensor, usualy found on the side of the cylinder head. With the ignition on, disconnect the temp sensor wire and short it to ground/ earth. The temp guage should move to very hot.

 

Tail gate wiring as already mentioned always fractures within the rubber gator on the right hand side. I cut the whole lot out on my car and replaced with same guage wires. I used small bullit type connectors either end of each wire, ( about 8-10) in all to make it easy if it happens again.