Inner Off Side Cv Joint Gaiter Replacement

[Taygarth]

Hi

 

The inner drivers side CV joint gaiter is split on my 2005 130 PD - I have done various searches and some of you have done this.

 

My question is does the shaft need to be removed from the car or can the inner spline drive bolts be removed at the gearbox end and the shaft droped at the gearbox end and the gaiter replaced by working under the car with the outer still assembled, even if the outer bottom ball joint, etc was dismantled to allow the shaft to be pulled outwards with the outer CV joint still in the hub to allow some clearance at the inner end flange would be preferable to dismantling it all.

 

Anyone done it this way or is it esential to take the shaft off the car?

 

Thanks

 

Trevor

[Mirez]

It really isn't that difficult a job to remove the shaft from the car, the passenger side is the harder of the two. You can remove it by seperating the track rod end and ball joint - there is then enough room to slide the shaft back and out whilst pulling the hub forward.

Having just done the half-shaft its attached to I can tell you it would be possible to do it from under the car if you really really don't want to remove it but it would be tricky, and the chance of getting dirt in the joint would be high given you are below the engine.

[traff]

ive done mine from under the car...in fact ive done the same for a couple of mates cars.jack up car ,remove wheel,undo and remove 2 allen bolts from the bottom ball joint ,pull the strut outwards...make sure the inner boot is loose first thou....watch out...its very greasy...clean..remove circlip ...then uj joint...boot slides off.....refit is reverse of above.....uj must go on the same way round that you took it off...sounds tricky but its easy ...allow about 1 hour.you can use the same method to do the outer joint as well.

[Taygarth]

Thanks for the comments; I think I will do it insitu

 

Just got to get a bucket of enthusiasm!!!!

[Taygarth]

Finally got round to doing the CV joint boot.

 

Just thought I would add a note for anyone who does a search and finds this -

 

Some advice -

 

Listen to the learned people on this site and take the shaft out to do the work. I tried to do it insitu (ignoring others) It is almost impossible to do a good job with it in place and it is a piece of cake to remove.

 

Second bit of advice - buy the proper manufacture part - I did not and had to play around to get it to seal. The part I got was not shaped to match the Inner joint to gearbox boss (the boss has scollops around the O.D.), this meant that it had gaps where the boot goes on the boss, I ended up cutting the old boot and using it to pack out the scollped areas to seal from contamination.

 

Other than that a really easy job - cannot see how I was quoted

[Brash]

Great!

 

Cheers,Got this job to do soon.

 

Did the other side last year, and put the pics on here with a wright up.

 

I'll continue to buy the O.E.M boot kit and take off the car now then.

 

Well Done and thanks for the contribution/advice.

[niallsan]

[Just to add to this:- I had an inner cv boot fail about June last Year. I only noticed it when we had a flat tire on the drivers side front. Anyway, we were heading to France in August so I had the boot replaced.

All fine- until- on the motorway in France the Caravan we were towing had a blowout. Immediately after that there was a noticable wobble/vibration in the car- worse when the car was under load.

We brought it back to the garage that replaced the boot when we returned home- they couldn't find anything wrong.

Brought it to a Ford dealer lately to find the problem. They couldn't really find anything wrong except maybe a little wear in the cv joint. Over the last week the vibration was really bad. I decided after inspecting the cv joint, which had about 2mm of movement, to replace the inner cv joint. The Motomax.pl people mentioned elsewhere on this site sent 2 cv joints. I removed the cv joint only to find it dry as an Arabs sandal! If you want something done right - try it yourself first. Replaced with new cv joint. Works a treat. No wobble/vibration.

You would think the least a garage could do would be throw a bit of grease in the blasted thing!

Edited April 6, 2011 by niallsan

[pauls ghia]

Hi

 

The inner drivers side CV joint gaiter is split on my 2005 130 PD - I have done various searches and some of you have done this.

 

My question is does the shaft need to be removed from the car or can the inner spline drive bolts be removed at the gearbox end and the shaft droped at the gearbox end and the gaiter replaced by working under the car with the outer still assembled, even if the outer bottom ball joint, etc was dismantled to allow the shaft to be pulled outwards with the outer CV joint still in the hub to allow some clearance at the inner end flange would be preferable to dismantling it all.

 

Anyone done it this way or is it esential to take the shaft off the car?

 

Thanks

 

Trevor

 

Trevor, I totally agree with what Niallsan said. Almost the same happened to us in France too, year before last, (this is when you find out how good your breakdown assistance is - or not, and that all the French garage owners are en vacance!)

If there is any play in the joints just get a complete shaft, they are only about £70

http://www.eurocarparts.com/driveshaft

Paul.

Edited April 6, 2011 by pauls ghia

[niallsan]

ive done mine from under the car...in fact ive done the same for a couple of mates cars.jack up car ,remove wheel,undo and remove 2 allen bolts from the bottom ball joint ,pull the strut outwards...make sure the inner boot is loose first thou....watch out...its very greasy...clean..remove circlip ...then uj joint...boot slides off.....refit is reverse of above.....uj must go on the same way round that you took it off...sounds tricky but its easy ...allow about 1 hour.you can use the same method to do the outer joint as well.

 

Hey Traff

 

Small question- when you undo those 2 allen bolts from under the ball joint- does that mean the ball joint does not need to be broken? You said to pull the strut out- is that just give a tug on the hub/disc and the strut will move outwards? I'm trying to change the inner cv joint and the driveshaft needs to come out. Will I have to undo the steering rod(don't think so)? Or the drop link(don't think so)? Thanks!

[sparky Paul]

Small question- when you undo those 2 allen bolts from under the ball joint- does that mean the ball joint does not need to be broken? You said to pull the strut out- is that just give a tug on the hub/disc and the strut will move outwards? I'm trying to change the inner cv joint and the driveshaft needs to come out. Will I have to undo the steering rod(don't think so)? Or the drop link(don't think so)? Thanks!

 

Forgive me for butting in, but it's an oldish thread and I'm not sure if traff will be about.

 

Removing the balljoint bolts disconnects it from the bottom arm, so it then does not need to be split. Once disconnected, the strut is free to swing about, allowing you to remove the driveshaft easily... the track rod and droplink can remain attached, fiddle with the steering if the track rod is restricting movement of the hub.

 

Apparently, if you jack the car so the suspension is at full extension, and apply full lock, there's just enough movement on the driveshaft to allow you to pull it out of the hub end without splitting the bottom balljoint. I haven't tried this, but another member on here say they have successfully removed driveshafts this way. Of course, you still have to remove the driveshaft end bolt, and these must be renewed upon reassembly.

[niallsan]

Thanks Sparky.

 

While waiting for a reply I said I'd check the TIS disc. To be honest I had forgotten about it??!!!??

It was just as you said. The disc/hub swung out enough to remove the halfshaft completely. The disc just needs to be pulled outwards. Those two allen bolts look a bit small to hold on that wishbone arm!!!

I didn't change the hub bolt. Why is that necessary? Just looks like a bolt to me? I know it says to change it in the TIS as well? Anyone know a technical reason? Is it liable to snap/break if reused?

 

Thanks again

 

Niallsan

[sparky Paul]

I didn't change the hub bolt. Why is that necessary? Just looks like a bolt to me? I know it says to change it in the TIS as well? Anyone know a technical reason? Is it liable to snap/break if reused?

 

Yes, the bolt is a stretch bolt, they are designed for one use only and must be replaced.

 

An area of the bolt actually stretched during tightening, reducing in diameter slightly. If the bolt is reused, this pre-stretched bolt will not hold the same torque if applied again. It will also be weakened and could subsequently loosen or even fracture.

[niallsan]

Ok Sparky- thanks for that- thats reason enough for me. I better order 2!

Thanks

Niallsan

[niallsan]

[Just to add to this:- I had an inner cv boot fail about June last Year. I only noticed it when we had a flat tire on the drivers side front. Anyway, we were heading to France in August so I had the boot replaced.

All fine- until- on the motorway in France the Caravan we were towing had a blowout. Immediately after that there was a noticable wobble/vibration in the car- worse when the car was under load.

We brought it back to the garage that replaced the boot when we returned home- they couldn't find anything wrong.

Brought it to a Ford dealer lately to find the problem. They couldn't really find anything wrong except maybe a little wear in the cv joint. Over the last week the vibration was really bad. I decided after inspecting the cv joint, which had about 2mm of movement, to replace the inner cv joint. The Motomax.pl people mentioned elsewhere on this site sent 2 cv joints. I removed the cv joint only to find it dry as an Arabs sandal! If you want something done right - try it yourself first. Replaced with new cv joint. Works a treat. No wobble/vibration.

You would think the least a garage could do would be throw a bit of grease in the blasted thing!

 

 

[Gapesterr]

Hey guy's looking for help I'm not a mechanic but I'm handy with my hands now the inner cv gater has failed on my MOT passenger side - could someone give me a walk through ? As I have never attempted this. Thanks Edited June 1, 2015 by Gapesterr

[Russats]

Mine has split too recently...... I'll be watching for advise

[BrianH]

Hey guy's looking for help I'm not a mechanic but I'm handy with my hands now the inner cv gater has failed on my MOT passenger side - could someone give me a walk through ? As I have never attempted this. Thanks

 

Its basically the same as the other side, but made much more awarkard by the lack of anything to grab onto to remove it from the gearbox. I need to swap mine out as the inner cv joint on mine has failed, will take some photos if I get chance

 

The procedure in the haynes manual pretty much covers it if you have that to hand.

[Gapesterr]

Hey guys thought I'd go and just wing it managed to do it with ease

 

Tyre off

Sump guard off

Two Allen bolts off ( from under the outer cv boot)

Centre bolt out from the shaft (with a gentle knock to the bolt with a copper hammer)

Pulled out the shaft

Removed the C clip from the bearings and slid it off

Fitted the new boot

And reversed to re assemble next time will do it all in about an hour really straight forward

[SilverBeast]

Did you replace the centre bolt? As above it's a stretch bolt so should be replaced every time it's removed. It's a torque up then turn through 90degrees jobby.

[Gapesterr]

No I did not replace the centre bolt and just tightened it with my 1/2 " drive power bar :/ what do I ask the parts company for ? Centre bolt for a drive shaft ?

[SilverBeast]

That'll probably do it, it's also seems to be called the hub bolt or hub centre driveshaft bolt. I'd be tempted to go to a Ford/VW/Seat dealer and get one there.  I understand that VW/Seat are usually cheaper.  The ones I got with my cheap J&R driveshaft (that I believe will need replacing again soon!!) were a allen/hex drive rather than a more traditional "bolt".

 

There is a guide for replacement here which includes torque settings (150Nm then turn 90degrees) I needed a long breaker bar to get close to achieving this.  This may be different for other models.

[BrianH]

Your probably right on the j&r one I've just had to change one of the pair I'd put on the mondeo. Did get rid of a lot of the wobble under accleration though that I had with them. I Don't expect the other one to last much longer these had done around 20k

[SilverBeast]

I have an unused one in the garage as I expected to do the drivers side too but never got round to it.  The intermediate drive shaft needs replacing now so I'll probably stump up for the Motomax shaft and get better quality drive shafts for both sides and do them all at the same time.  My gearbox requires to adopt a more relaxed driving style as if you try to rush the change it gets very noisy as it tends to baulk, particularly first to second.  I understand intermediate shaft replacement has been known to improve gerachange too, so here's hoping....

[Gapesterr]

So what's the difference in these shafts ? I'm 100,000 miles on and still running the original shafts what would it do if I changed them out

[SilverBeast]

I replaced mine because I had a vibration. on passenger front, which has now come back.  The Intermediate shaft is in two parts and the splines that join them together wear, as they don't seem to have had any grease applied to them when originally manufactured!   Wear is evident by a clunk when going off and on power as the engine shifts from accelerating the car to slowing it down.  Also "red dust" (rust powder) around the intermediate shaft.

 

The Motomax intermediate shaft has much longer spline engagement, and if you fit it yourself you can make sure there is plenty of grease applied! More details here

 

If you haven't got any issues I'd leave alone.  If it's only been gently driven then and had regular maintenance then there's no reason it shouldn't be OK.