Galaxy 2.8 V6 1999 (mk 1)

[doug]

Hi

 

First of all, I totally agreed with a lot of your other members - fantastic site that has been very helpful in providing ideas as to where to start looking/researching problems

 

I have a Ford Galaxy Ghia 2.8 V6 petrol (1999 T-reg) I believe this makes the car a MK1 version. I have had the car 10 years and had very few prior problems - certainly no mechanical ones.

 

Recently several symptoms started to manifest themselves and I have read this site from end to end and advice, although useful, just does not seem to apply to my car. The 2.8 seems to be a problem-child all of its own - perhaps because it is aligned more to VW than Ford - I did see a post where someone alluded to this ?

 

OK - there have been several symptoms over the last 6-8 weeks.

1) remote control stopped working, but no big deal to manually open the doors and this triggers the central locking to open all doors ok and car starts ok first time so no immobiliser issues. I changed the keyfob battery and no improvement - I did this about 2 years ago and no re-programming was required - then the remote operated immmediately - anyone have ideas what might have caused the remote to stop operating the central locking ?

 

2) Related to 1) above. I have tried to re-program using the guidelines of inseting key into driver-door (all windows up and doors closed) turning key 3-times to unlock-posn (red-light on door turns on for 15 seconds), During this 15 seconds (and actually inside 5 secods) I remove the key, point at rear-view-mirror, press the lock-button on keyfob and hold down, and then simultaneously press the unlock button on keyfob 3-times - keyfob responds with 5 flashes, but there is no response fromn the red-light on the car door to indicate success. A suggestion was to wait a few minutes and see if the programming was successful but still no joy.

At this pont car still started ok - any ideas why the car does not acknowledge the key signal, and is the only solution to go to an key-specialist ?

 

3) After 3 weeks the car no longer started on first attmept. I could go for a drive and park at supermarket and return after 1/2 hour and turn ignition - car would turn over but would not fire - as though the carburetor was flooded. Leaving the car for 2 hours and then retrying - and it started. Other times I would have to wait overnight before it would restart - now, occassionally in the morning it will not start either.

In this forum there is mention of relay 30 and 27 having possibly soldering issues and if htis is sorted out then the car returned to working normally - but having looked into the car-handbook for descriptins of the fuse box there is no mention in the diagrams of the R30 although it mentions the R27 when I opened the fusebaox the R27 slot is empty

 

The car-handbook describes R27 as Fuel Supply for both the Galaxy 2.0L and 2.3L and Air Conditining for 2.8L.

 

In the handbook the only mention of a relay relating to Fuel is the R7 which is the Fuel Supply emenergency cut-off but does not exist in my fuse box ?

 

4) the latest in the saga is that the car's oil pressure light is coming on intermittantly but getting more regular as though the problem is getting worse - once car warms up and if I switch off car and restart it disappears - if I do not restsart then light remains on and car seems to run "rough" as though not firing on all cyclinders.

 

5) last winter car was idling badly one evening and the oil light was on internittantly, and as it was dark I just had a look into the engine compartment and noticed arc-ing from what I assume is the coil (where all 6 spark-plug leads converge. I have monitored since then on the odd occasion in the evenings and never seen the same sparking since but assume there is some tracking meaning leads are now failing (or were failing ?) but do not understand why it would resolve itself. Car was then fine for next 4+ months until recently

 

I took car in for service and MOT to a non-FORD service station and they could not find any problems via their diagnotics equipment (but not sure what they were using ( if anything ?)) - they said they could experiment with replacing the ignition-coil o perhaps after 10 years it is time to consider replacing the car. As I have only done 65K miles I feel there is a lot of life left in the car.

 

I used to do my own servicing and maintenance so I am not scared to attempt basic tasks but I am a bit of a dinosaur when it comes to this newer technology - give me a distributor cap, points etc and I am ok - I now need to familiarise myself with the concepts of the ECU etc...

 

If anyone has experienced similar, or can suggest whether or not the events are linked, and whether investing in VAG-COM to assist in diagnosing further is worth it. I am based in Richmond-Surrey so perhaps advice of where there is perhaps a good local technician I can trust for impartial honest advice might help depending on other peoples experiences

 

Sorry if the above seems like a long essay but I felt that the sequence of events might trigger ideas

 

Thanks in advance to anyone that can provide answers to some/any of my concerns

 

Doug

[scooper1]

Key programming can be a pain - may need to try many times - the infa red type is real pain to get programmed

 

on 2.8 battery has to be very good otherwise does not start - engine will seam to turn over fast but not start

 

If you get a bleep from dash board after none start it is a PAT problem ..... Quite often related to battery problem above

 

The non start when hot ( and if engine stops at high speed) seams like a crank angle sensor failure - they show no fault codes as engine thinks its stopped normally - took ford 6 weeks to find this on my car

 

Not had any oil light problems on the 6x 2.8 galaxys I had over the last 14 years

[v6mikey]

I can't help thinking about my experience with an old golf with 60K on the clock, with an intermittent oil pressure light. I removed the sump to find the oil pick up pipe was slightly blocked. Cleaned it out and it went on to do 50K without any other problems.

 

The problem of running rough in the winter sounds just like my other old golf V6. A squirt of WD40 around the coilpack did the job. The golf had the old large single coilpack, again arcing between the leads. Never had to buy new leads.

 

Just a thought tho.

[doug]

dash it - just lost the response I was typing up - I had gathered further info from other site to include in this post so others would not have to expend as much time as I have

 

thanks to Scooper1 and V6mikey. Will take on board your suggestions as I start experimenting over the weekend.

Scooper1 you were correct re the beeping from dashboard so will need to consider the PATS (passive anti-theft system).

I also failed to mention that on 2 ocassions the driver footwell has flooded and traced to the side of the bulkhead not draining properly. I see that other posts on this suggest the ECU could get damaged if there is flooding in the passenger footwell - but on my Galaxy there is no visible electrics under either seat so I assume this is located behind dash - please advice if anyone knows the correct location.

 

It is always a problem deciding which items to start with first so will prepare a list of candidate areas to target and then cost these, Will let you know how I get on. So far web research (mainly from this forum but relating to other Galaxys) suggests consideration of

1) ignoition-coil (

[doug]

dash it - just lost the response I was typing up - I had gathered further info from other site to include in this post so others would not have to expend as much time as I have

 

thanks to Scooper1 and V6mikey. Will take on board your suggestions as I start experimenting over the weekend.

Scooper1 you were correct re the beeping from dashboard so will need to consider the PATS (passive anti-theft system).

I also failed to mention that on 2 ocassions the driver footwell has flooded and traced to the side of the bulkhead not draining properly. I see that other posts on this suggest the ECU could get damaged if there is flooding in the passenger footwell - but on my Galaxy there is no visible electrics under either seat so I assume this is located behind dash - please advice if anyone knows the correct location.

 

It is always a problem deciding which items to start with first so will prepare a list of candidate areas to target and then cost these, Will let you know how I get on. So far web research (mainly from this forum but relating to other Galaxys) suggests consideration of

1) ignoition-coil (

[doug]

Hi

here is some feedback on progress to date

Its taken a little while to get hold of the parts but here goes

1) Removed sump and check the oil-uptake mechanism - visually everythig was very clean - no sign of sludge at all - replaced and tried car - symtpoms still existed.

2) purchased licence to the VCDS-Lite software and ran checks, cleared all results and reran. Indicated MAF

*****

Address 01: Engine Labels: 021-906-256.LBL

Controller: 021 906 256 AE

Component: MOTRONIC M3.8.1 HS V01

Coding: 00000

Shop #: WSC 00022

2 Faults Found:

00553 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70)

28-00 - Short to Plus

00533 - Idle Speed Regulation

14-00 - Adaptation Limit (Add) Exceeded

Readiness: 0110 0101

 

Address 15: Airbags Labels: 1J0-909-60x-VW3.LBL

Controller: 1J0 909 603 AA

Component: AIRBAG VW3 - V04

Coding: 16705

Shop #: WSC 00020

1 Fault Found:

00532 - Supply Voltage B+

07-10 - Signal too Low - Intermittent

*****

 

 

3) Replaced MAF - initially all seemed to imperoved and car started everytime for about a week but problem has reappeared.

4) Replaced O2 sensor - and again problem still remains

 

5) Just been out in the car and no problems, then returned, switched off ignition, and tried to start after 5 min. Starter turns over but appears no spark gets to the ons/spark-plugs. I ran VCDS-Lite and got the below

 

 

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 09: Cent. Elect. Labels: None

Controller: 7M0 962 258 K

Component: Multifunkt.Einheit 0001

Coding: 04097

Shop #: WSC 00022

1 Fault Found:

01135 - Interior Monitoring Sensors

35-10 - - - Intermittent

 

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 15: Airbags Labels: 1J0-909-60x-VW3.LBL

Controller: 1J0 909 603 AA

Component: AIRBAG VW3 - V04

Coding: 16705

Shop #: WSC 00020

1 Fault Found:

00532 - Supply Voltage B+

07-10 - Signal too Low - Intermittent

 

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

I waited 2 hours and car restarted - so I am convinced it must be related to the immobiliser (or something electrical that resets itself after a period of time) - when I try to start (when it will not fire) there is a beeping sound after I cease turning the starter-motor

 

6) next step it to discount the crank-sensor - wrong part was delivered previously - will update you when I do next set of tests

 

If anyone has further input/comments/advise please let me know

 

Doug

[doug]

Sorry there was an additional entry on VCDS-Lite readings when car would not start - I believe that the crank-aensor and Engine Speed Sensor are the same component

 

Address 01: Engine Labels: 021-906-256.LBL

Controller: 021 906 256 AE

Component: MOTRONIC M3.8.1 HS V01

Coding: 00000

Shop #: WSC 00022

1 Fault Found:

00513 - Engine Speed Sensor (G28)

03-00 - No Signal

Readiness: 0110 0101

[seatkid]

Sorry there was an additional entry on VCDS-Lite readings when car would not start - I believe that the crank-aensor and Engine Speed Sensor are the same component

 

Address 01: Engine Labels: 021-906-256.LBL

Controller: 021 906 256 AE

Component: MOTRONIC M3.8.1 HS V01

Coding: 00000

Shop #: WSC 00022

1 Fault Found:

00513 - Engine Speed Sensor (G28)

03-00 - No Signal

Readiness: 0110 0101

Well I believe you have found the problem.

 

Regarding remote fob - they all appear to die in the same way after a few years, first intermittent operation then change the batteries and it dies shortly after - leds may flash but it doesnt do anything. Oil light might simply be faulty oil pressure switch.

[doug]

Hi SeatKid

 

Thanks for comments - will hopefully get the correct Crankshaft Sensor this week and update the forum on my progress.

 

Question re the fob and Remote Control capability that stopped working - when you say it dies after a few years - does it mean that the infra-red transmition is unsuccessful, or the ECU(?) is now faulty (or lost the freq that key sends out ? - can it be reset via VCDS.

I know in the plastic molding of the key there is a small pcb, and additionally a tiny +/- 5mm component that I believe relates to the immobiliser

 

Key 1 has bulbous plastic molding with 2 buttons (lock/unload)

Key 2 and 3 are flatter with no buttons and no internal battery

Key 1 & 2 both have a plastic insert running from plastic molding into the metal of the key.

Key 3 can only open the doors. Key 1 & 2 can start the car.

Therefore I assume immobiliser relates to the plastic insert that runs into the metal and it is not controlled by the 5mm component in the key-1 molding.

So What in fact does the pcb do, and what does the 5mm component do ? and what exactly is not working - is it the key that is now faulty, and not sending the previously "mated" signal, or the ECU that no longer reconises the transmitted signal and needs to learn the new infra-red freq ?

 

When I attempt reprogramming the car I believe the following is happening - please correct my misunderstanding

 

0) immobiliser is deactivated when the key is inserted in ignotion - because I can start the car with the same key

1) I initiated the reprogramming by the turning the key in the driver-door (unlock direction) 3 times.

2) Car acknowledges the attempt by putting the led in the door onto permanent-glow - meaning ready to accept new signal. BUT somehow it needs to know that this is a valid-key and not a key form a different vehicle - what is it that ensures this ?

3) The door-light remains for 15 sec waiting to receive the new frequency - implying key is seen by ECU

4) I press the lock-button and whil keeping it depressed I press the unlock button 3 times

5) there is no response from the door-led as though the new signal is not see or accepted - why might this be ?

6) do you know if the VCDS-software will help me

 

Doug

[seatkid]

Cant be bothered to read your comprehensive posting as Im too tired but I can tell you this.

 

1. The remotes operate by wireless. The infra red business applied to only a few ancient examples - they never did update the manual...

 

2. The immobiliser chip is the small elongated ferrite type block that sits in the fob near the blade. It quite common for this to fall out when people open their keys to change batteries.

 

3. The PCB is the remote bit.

 

4. The Remote unit in the vehicle (forget what its called) can be programmed to store up to 5 different keyfobs on a rolling basis - any new programming and the oldest is lost and replaced by the new.

 

5. When people buy replacement fobs (v expensive) they usually work but you still need the original immobiliser chip otherwise its an expensive trip to the dealer.

[doug]

Sorry SeatKid

 

Trying to supply as much info to avoid you wasting time providing advice I already picked elsewhere on this site and have attempted.

 

You said Fob dies after a few year - which component are you suggesting - Ferrite block is still there inside plastic molding and battery is new

If car starts it must mean immobiliser communication is still effective.

 

It is the "Remote opening" that is not functioning so can you advise how do I go about fault-finding.

 

Doug

[seatkid]

Yes the ferrite block is the device for the immobiliser and is reliable.

 

The PCB contains an IC and some other components and is the remote wireless unit. Something goes on that PCB, best guess is the ceramic resonator (the frequency generator) drifts frequency or stops oscillating as the fob first becomes unreliable/intermittent and then stops completely. Most electronic failures are due to passive component drift (e.g. capacitors, resonators etc). Note the resonator frequency is different for different cars. i.e. although a VW golf fob looks identical, it operates on a different frequency and you cant use that fob on your Shalaxy.

 

Members have reported buying a new fob fixes the problem so that seems to rule out any issue with the car electronics.

[doug]

Hi

Some good news !!!

Key-fob now working - Received replacement key-fob and reprogrammed using approach described higher in the topic, swapped the RC parts over. works a dream. I guess there is no method to check that original was no longer transmitting on 433.92 mhz. This would help other reconise their fob was u/s.

Replaced the Crankcase Sensor and car is starting again but too soon to say if it will remain reliable. I discovered that my original sensor was u/s because its resistance exceeded the 900 ohms rating - was about 1.5Kohms - so a simple test for others to do to isolate this when they experience starting problems. Also found that when the battery voltage is below 11.5 V not enough voltage to manage the sensor readings. ECU will not let car start when this happens.

 

Now I am trying to resolve the oil-pressure-light - it remains on flashing permanently - previously if I warmed up car and drove for a while, switched off ignition and restarted then it remained off, now it comes back on and remains flashing.

 

Please can someone advise how to remove the connectors from oil-pressure-sensor/oil-pressure-switches - difficult to get hands down to oil-filter housing and although could reach the plastic caps they do not appear to lift off - don't want to force and break these

 

Doug