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Posted

My service light is now on and its only done 7000 miles since I bought it from a dealer. God knows what oil was put in however when he did the pre buy service?

I have always serviced my own motors so before I start I have a few questions to those of you that have done a PD before!

I see that the Pd engine uses a paper element oil filter rather than a normal screw on filter so as the service process is going to be different to my old AFN gal I thought I'd ask as to whats involved and how much time I'll need to give it a service. Its now done 49k miles.

So I'll buy a;

PD Oil and paper Filter (Does the 150bhp need more specialist oil than 505.01? Not Long life I presume?)

Fuel Filter

Air Filter

Wont bother with a Pollen filter but I'll check it and clean if nec?

Just fitted new brake Pads both front and back but other than the obvious what else will need checking out.

 

So are any of these replacement items a bugger to fit time and difficulty wise as I've not done a PD engine before?

I have not looked at where each of the parts fit yet either so are they in awkward places to get at?

Will the deisel need any priming when I replace the fuel filter?

 

Also the miles seem a little low to me but I do quite a few short journeys I suppose so shall I wait for 2000 miles more? Shouldn't it be around 10,000 miles?

 

How do I re-set the Oil light and does it actually monitor the oil condition or just count the miles before it re-lights?

 

Cheers in advance.

Harvey

Posted

It should be 10,000 miles but if you have an oil quality sensor then it may well be looking at that, its also possible the dealer didn't reset the count after he serviced it. Short journeys generally mean you need to change the oil earlier rather then later. You'll need to remove the undershield to drain the oil out and that's probably the biggest job in terms of time, the PD engine is actually one of the easiest I've worked on it terms of accessibility for service items (except the pollen filter!). If you look at the underside of the sump and see a circular object with 3 thorx screws there then you have a quality sensor, if its blanked then its counting miles and/or days. All galaxy PD engines use the same oil, just make sure its designed for the PD and you'll be fine.

 

Reseting the light varies by year - there are a few options you can try and most are detailed on here.

 

Removing the engine cover is a simple pull up job, there is nothing screwed or bolted it simply lifts up. The oil filter is under there is a screwed canister, again simply unscrew it and the oil filter lifts out - there are two oil seals that should be replaced at the same time, most filters come with them.

 

Air filters in the box, front left of the bay .

 

The fuel filter is at the back, right of the engine - you don't need to prime it, just turn the ignition on/off about 4 or 5 times to fill it and you should be fine.

 

If you are a quick, compentent worker then you'll be done in 40mins.

Posted (edited)

I did my own service, ALL filters including pollen, pollen is a bugger , got it out with wipers in situ but could i get it back in!!!!

 

Had to dismantle the wiper assembly...

 

Didnt do oil, i have the filter but dont have the gear to drain old oil so looking at taking to a local garage for an oil change and i supply the filter :)

 

Reset service interval is simple on my 2002 plate.. hold trip meter reset in while turning on ignition...

Edited by MrEnigma
Posted

Thanks that all sounds ok generally and yes I have done the pollen filter before on my MK1 so I'll check the new Gals.

Interesting about the Oil tester but guess I wont know until I remove the under tray. I was wrong about the miles since I bought it so the figure is less so more like only 5k since the oil should have been done!

Harvey

Posted
When I do my fuel filter I pour the residue fuel from the old filter into the new one - just saves a bit of cranking and gives you somewhere to drain the old filter into
Posted
Changing the oil is easy! You can use a monkey wrench or mole wrench to open the drain nut. Use PTFE tape on the cleaned threads when you put it back in. Easy!
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Now got my Pennasol PD oil and Air,Oil and Fuel filters to do my service on my MK2 TDi PD 150BHP.

The fuel filter however looks the same as my MK1 Gal but is that correct? I was expecting a different looking item but I must admit I have not had time to check my MK2 Filter yet on the car. I was just wondering if I'd been sent the wrong part?

No I need half a dry day spare to carry out the service??? Not easy for me!

Edited by Ginettamad
Posted

Well Friday night I had a little spare time so I completed my service in around two hours and as you say its generally very easy to do.

Service Pictures would be useful in the FAQ but I didn't take any as it was dark Friday night!

Much less mess oil wise with those new cartridge style filters until you tip over the sump oil container on yer drive by accident! Her in doors not happy!

Removing the lower under windscreen tray was only just possible without removing the wipers plastic upper tray above as that had to be bent upwards hard to remove the lower main tray from under it. I found if you pull the drivers side out first then slide it side ways towards the drivers side to get the other end past the coolant bottle then forward and out.

The only reason you need to do this is to make removing the Diesal Filter and pollen filters easier. Getting at the Air filter rear screw is also easier with the tray out as I found after putting it back in and struggling with a badly angled screw driver! The philips head was already damaged from previous dealers trying the get the screw out without taking out the tray I suspect.

I just cleaned out the pollen filter with my air line and it takes about half an hour to get it back in properly after upteen tries and a lot of swearing! I wonder how many dealers claim they change these without bothering? If paying for a service make sure you check by looking under the wipers for the new filter.

I spent a fair bit of time cleaning out the area behind the tray of leaves and debris again with the air line which comes in useful. I also covered over both strut tops with plastic bags as they hold water which rusts the top nuts and threads to the point where they are impossible to remove without damage. I found this out the hard way with my MK1 when I lowered the suspension and need new top bearings. (All had to be destroyed and replaced.)

I certainly dont recommend tipping the old Diesal from one old filter to the new one as you could contaminate it with old debris from the dirty side of the element.

The engine tray was intact but several fasteners were missing which again I blame on the previous dealers. So I replaced all 4 M10 bolts and the 2 M10 nuts with Stainless steel items as I wont allow anyone to fiddle under my cars from now on!

So since I bought my MK2 gal supposedly serviced it did less than 5000 miles before the service light time ran out so its now been re-set and I will note the miles for next time. My sump has no oil sensor in its base so I guess mine just counts miles rather than tests the oil quality. (I doubt they did a proper job as many of the parts looked older than 4 months).

So now all the brakes have been replaced and the service is done I'm happy my car will not let me down over winter hopefully.

The

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