SolarB Posted June 22, 2010 Report Posted June 22, 2010 I'm in the middle of changing the cambelt on my Y reg 1.9Tdi. All's going well but I can't work out this tensioner thing with the 4mm drill bit. Ford TIS says:"Using the special tool, rotate the timing belt tensioner cam clockwise and remove the special tool" I assume they mean remove tool 310-084 (though why they number tools and then don't use the number in the text is beyond me).Removing 310-084 allows the piston to rise from the pre-tensioner and push on the arm of the tensioner pully, giving a gap of 15-20mm. http://s437.photobucket.com/albums/qq91/solarb/TIS2.jpg TIS then says:"Using the spacial tool, rotate the timing belt cam tensioner clockwise until the drill bit (4mm) can be inserted. Then tighten the nut in two stages."However, with 310-084 removed there's no way I can rotate the tensioner clockwise. To do this I would have to force the piston back down and that's just not going to happen. To push the piston back into it's housing I had to use a vise. http://i437.photobucket.com/albums/qq91/solarb/TIS1.jpg Even is TIS is incorrect and I set the 4mm gap BEFORE removing 310-084 the minimum gap is 6mm (set by the piston). These photos show the relative positions with and without 310-084. http://i437.photobucket.com/albums/qq91/solarb/Pully1.jpg http://s437.photobucket.com/albums/qq91/solarb/Pully2.jpg So, what am I doing wrong and where do I measure with the 4mm drill bit? :huh: Any advise would be greatly appreciated. Quote
tim-spam Posted June 22, 2010 Report Posted June 22, 2010 (edited) Re-install tool 310-084 - this should engage in the groove around the piston. Then try tightening the tensioner securing nut so that you can just rotate it with the special tool. When you remove 310-084, you should now find that the gap is a little more sensible. I always set the gap so that a 3.5mm drill rattles a bit and a 4.5mm drill will not pass through. Edited June 22, 2010 by tim-spam Quote
SolarB Posted June 22, 2010 Author Report Posted June 22, 2010 Sorted - didn't realise the 4mm drill bit comes in at an angle from the rear of the car rather than at 90 degrees to the plate. Rotating the tensioner cam shits the pivot point of the tensioner pully and the arm of the pully fore or aft. Even though the piston of the pre-tensioner protrudes 6mm above the surrounding area it's possible to set a 4mm gap because the arm slopes downwards from the pivot point towards the drivers feet. Thanks for the advice tin-spam. Quote
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