How Much?

[Jayton]

To get a wheel bearing replaced?

 

I called a local ford dealer...

[bj2004]

wow thats

[Jayton]

More like

[cyborg]

Hi jayton,

 

It is easier to change the hub rather than mess around with wheel bearing .The hub would need to come off to bench press some new bearing's in or use bearing pullers...good luck on that one

 

For a front hub.

jack the car up onto axel stand

Remove wheel Remove Brake'hook up with some wire on the shock spring' Remove brake bracket 18mm socket remove disc by removing the allen key disc holder.

 

Use blow torch to heat up the bit where he hub goes on to the shock so you dont snap the bolt .The 2 bolts a on the bottom of the hub which go to he whishbone should undo easy enough undo. The steering arm might need a ball joint separator.

 

Rear hub's in technical terms a doddle

 

He presto jobs a good un.

[Jayton]

That's why I'm taking it to a garage ;)

 

I'll let them battle it out ;) when I got home my wife said she told them it was the REAR bearing... grrrr, I bet it's going to be more than 1 hour now.

[sparky Paul]

Replacing the front hub carrier assembly complete would cost a fortune... unless you intend to fit a secondhand unit, which is a false economy IMHO. In any case, it won't take someone with garage facilities long to replace a front bearing. Also, make sure you budget for a new pinch bolt, which will be corroded, and a new driveshaft bolt, which must be replaced.

 

As for rear bearings, they are not straightforward. You can't replace the hub carrier seperately, it is an integral part of the trailing arm. The bearing is pressed directly into the trailing arm, and to replace it you need a good slide hammer and some heat, or to take the whole suspension arm off.

[andyfishing]

If you think Ford dealers are epxensive - try Land Rover dealers - I ran Defenders and Discoveries for ten years and my bank balance is still recovering (I still miss my old Series III though).

 

I had a problem in Taunton with my front drivers window on my Discovery staying down - i knew the metal window bar had probably corroded and finally given up the ghost. A 15 minute job at most to get the widnow into the upright position. I was on holiday, limited toolbox so went to the nearest Land Rover dealer.

 

He agreed with me what the problem was , he offered to replace the part at a cost of

[Jayton]

I dropped it off this morning and asked if they could make it their first job so I can get to work this afternoon as my boss has kindly given me the morning off at short notice. "Yes, we'll make it one of the first jobs we do"... that was at 8am... 7 hours later I'm still waiting for a call.

 

I called them at 11:50 to see how much longer it was going to be (they said 1.5 hours, it had been almost 4...) and they hadn't even started on it! urgh!

 

Doesn't help it is so hot and I'm loosing the plot a little now.

 

 

@Sparky Paul, I bought a bearing kit which came with a nut, a big bolt and a circular thing and ofc the bearing itself, so I assume that's everything they would need?

[sparky Paul]

@Sparky Paul, I bought a bearing kit which came with a nut, a big bolt and a circular thing and ofc the bearing itself, so I assume that's everything they would need?

 

The circular thing will be the bearing retaining clip, and the bolt will be the driveshaft end bolt.

 

If the hub carrier hasn't been disturbed for 10 years, I would have a small bet that the pinch bolt will need replacing, only a couple of quid from the Ford dealer and should be a stock item. The pinch bolt is prone to corrosion and is usually well siezed in - it's not hard to shear it without plenty of heat, and that's a whole bag of trouble.

[Jayton]

Got it back and it's making a worse noise now... the drop link has gone :lol:

 

and the metallic whirring/whooshing noise is still there so my next guess is brakes as they need doing and the garage did say they need doing so will be giving them a go this weekend.

[sparky Paul]

Got it back and it's making a worse noise now... the drop link has gone :)

 

and the metallic whirring/whooshing noise is still there

 

:)

 

Brakes rarely make bearing-type noises. Does the noise sound like a wheel bearing? How does it change with road speed? Does it change when cornering?

 

Had any different tyres fitted recently?

Edited May 25, 2010 by sparky Paul

[Jayton]

Hi Paul,

 

It does make a metal on metal sssssssshhhhhrrrrrrrr noise, I thought it was the bearing as when cornering to the right there is a grinding sort of noise. It increases with wheel rotation, from what I can tell, it is hard to hear as I can only hear it in the car with the window down and if there is a wall next to the car on the n/s/f where it can echo off.

 

I had a tyre fitted a few months back, I had the cornering noise start just after that actually but thought it was because of the wheel alignment & worn tyre & potholes that damaged the bearing and was more audible with the new tyre & wheel alignment done.

 

Do you think the noise that started after the new tye and the now increased noise is the tyre?

 

I'm still doing the brakes anyway as they need replacing, along with the AR Drop link.

[Jayton]

I took it for a little drive and it gets worse with speed, however it does sound like it's a rotational noise in sequence with the wheel rotation and changes pitch with braking.

 

So what could be the probable causes?

 

1) Dud wheel

2) Brakes

 

?

[sparky Paul]

Any sort of metal to metal grindy noise from the wheel hubs is likely to be brakes, but the noise should change under braking. Play in a badly worn or collapsing wheel bearing can make some nasty noises too, from either the brakes or the bearings - but you can check for this by jacking up, grabbing the wheel at 12 and 6 o'clock and rocking, checking for the any play.

 

I had a tyre fitted a few months back, I had the cornering noise start just after that actually but thought it was because of the wheel alignment & worn tyre & potholes that damaged the bearing and was more audible with the new tyre & wheel alignment done.

Tyres get noisier as they wear.

 

The reason I mention tyres is because I fitted a couple of new tyres some time ago, and immediately noticed that they were a bit noisy. This noise got progressively worse over the next year or so, to the point that I had convinced myself that there must be something wrong, probably a wheel bearing. I could find no defects, the bearings, driveshafts, etc. seemed fine, and I was starting to worry about the gearbox diff bearings... it was the tyres, and the noise disappeared after changing them.

 

The noise I had sounded just like a rumbling wheel bearing, sort of a low 'rrrrrrr' sound which increased in note with road speed. It tended to be most noticable around 30-50mph, then became much quieter 70mph+. Some of the budget Chinese tyres that are being imported are noisy, and the Galaxy does seem prone to tyre noise from certain types of tread pattern.

 

Out of interest, what sort of tyre was fitted?

[Jayton]

Hi Paul,

 

They're Vredstein Sportrac3's (spelling?) which I read on here are pretty good for the Gal's...

It was fitted in March IIRC, do you think I have any chance of getting it replaced by the company I bought it from if the noise is still there after replacing the brakes?

 

It really does resemble the noise of a bearing, but as that's been changed it can't be - so I guess it's either the brakes or wheel. So by Saturday afternoon we should know if it is or not...

 

Got Delphi front pads and discs coming along with a Topran AR Drop link for

[sparky Paul]

They're Vredstein Sportrac3's (spelling?) which I read on here are pretty good for the Gal's...

It was fitted in March IIRC, do you think I have any chance of getting it replaced by the company I bought it from if the noise is still there after replacing the brakes?

The Sportracs are a very good tyre, I would be very surprised if they are the problem.

 

The only way to isolate the tyres is to change them, swap them with the back wheels to see if the noise moves to the back.

 

Got Delphi front pads and discs coming along with a Topran AR Drop link for